General Fit Talk General Discussion on the Honda Fit/Jazz.

Anyone know what the hell these are?

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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 07:43 PM
  #41  
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OK guys, putting all the bickering aside, should i put these on or not? i was having trouble with drifting even after alignment. will these help or would it be a waste of my time?
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:05 PM
  #42  
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Up to you, there seems to be a lot of nonsense going on about this;

Read through this thread, like I was saying before the guy ran without and experience vibrations;

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...ght=hubcentric

And then.....

WOW
Guys who know a piece of pastic can cure vibration!!!!

Thank you all for support, Fitfreak Rock!!!
Must have been Jesus

I still can't understand the argument these is that they are for alignment, when you bolt up to the proper torque spec evenly the bolt holes will give you your alignment.

I did my final post about it before, but all the evidence is in favor of using them; In theory and in practical use. Apparently there is no negatives to using them (other than people saying they will melt which is frankly bull unless you are doing 500mph) so what do you have to lose.
 

Last edited by Sugarphreak; Aug 18, 2008 at 08:09 PM.
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:08 PM
  #43  
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[quote=WiggumS2K;399558]
Originally Posted by mahout


The amount of ignorance in this thread is mind boggling..

At any rate, name me ONE automobile manufacturer that produces a car that the OEM wheel is not hubcentric. Rings are there so wheel manufacturers can be lazy, but forget them. Name ONE OEM WHEEL THAT IS NOT HUB CENTRIC.

Ford, GM, Honda, Toyota, ad naseum.
Your problem is you confuse hub cover rings with axle centerlines
Lugbolts must be concentric to axle centerlines to .002" so the wheels will rotate smoothly, reliably and without runout because they are the deciding force to establishing wheel location finally, noyt the centering rings. Hub rings either are on a hub cover like the drum brake or cut into plate posts carriers for disc brake hardware. Both have holes for the lugbolts to pass thru and anyone who thinks those holes are very accurate has never removed and reinstalled one. Those cover hiub rings are +/- .020" Totally not capable of centering a wheel to the axis of rotation.
Centering rings have no purpose other than locating a wheel before they are tightened to the hub. They must have clearance or deformation sufficient for the lugbolts/nuts to fasten the wheels concentric to rotation.
Your problem is you confuse hub covers with axle centerlines. Axles, stubs or full length, or hubs, and lugbolt locations are machined accurately as a single units to make sure the bolt centers are concentric to the axis of rotation. The hub rings are merely cosmetic. And merely to help locate a wheel hub so the lugbolts are easier to insert in the wheel.
When those lugbolts/nuts are tightened no plastic or aluminum centering ring will prevent the wheel from nesting on the lugbolt locations. None
 

Last edited by mahout; Aug 18, 2008 at 08:16 PM.
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:12 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Burbio
OK guys, putting all the bickering aside, should i put these on or not? i was having trouble with drifting even after alignment. will these help or would it be a waste of my time?
They are a big help to installing wheels and are so light and near the centerline of the wheel they will not have any practical effect on your performance. You might put a lite coat of hitemp grease or oil on the inner surfaces so they don't stick to the hub ring. Leave no excess where it could get to brake surfaces.
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:13 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by mahout
They are a big help to installing wheels and are so light and near the centerline of the wheel they will not have any practical effect on your performance. You might put a lite coat of hitemp grease or oil on the inner surfaces so they don't stick to the hub ring. Leave no excess where it could get to brake surfaces.
Hey something we agree on
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:13 PM
  #46  
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put them on. they gave them to you with the wheels for a reason. better safe than sorry.
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:14 PM
  #47  
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You dont need them. Only one set of my wheels Ive ran center rings, and the only reason why I ran them is because the wheels were redrilled.

Im currently running them too.
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:15 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Burbio
OK guys, putting all the bickering aside, should i put these on or not? i was having trouble with drifting even after alignment. will these help or would it be a waste of my time?
post your alignment measurements first. could be able to tell if it's
from the botched alignment or your wheels vibrating.

if you dont feel vibration through the steering at expressway speeds
chances are your wheels are not vibrating in the front.

also check your tire pressure too that they are even at all 4 corners
to start off.
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:16 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Burbio
OK guys, putting all the bickering aside, should i put these on or not? i was having trouble with drifting even after alignment. will these help or would it be a waste of my time?
Go back and have it realigned.
A slight pull to the right is not a problem. Its actually recommended in case you fall asleep at the wheel.

Left hand pulls are bad alignments. Or bad tires.
If you can cross rotate the tires (none directional tires) try that first.
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:17 PM
  #50  
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lmao its funny how you looking at the pictures that i posted...
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:18 PM
  #51  
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the front wheels aligned perfectly. the rear wheels were like, .55 and .61 degrees to the right from true center.
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:19 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Burbio
the front wheels aligned perfectly. the rear wheels were like, .55 and .61 degrees to the right from true center.
You cant align the rear wheels. What kind of drift are you getting?
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:20 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by I Am Ray.
Go back and have it realigned.
A slight pull to the right is not a problem. Its actually recommended in case you fall asleep at the wheel.

Left hand pulls are bad alignments. Or bad tires.
If you can cross rotate the tires (none directional tires) try that first.
i had firestone align it 3 times and they were never able to get it to track straight. they blamed it on the rear toe, said it wasn't adjustable.
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:21 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by I Am Ray.
You cant align the rear wheels. What kind of drift are you getting?
it would just pull to the right on the freeway. it must have been the rear wheels pulling because the front wheels were true.
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 10:12 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Burbio
the front wheels aligned perfectly. the rear wheels were like, .55 and .61 degrees to the right from true center.
wat was the thrust angle?
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 11:10 PM
  #56  
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i don't even know what that means.
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 11:14 PM
  #57  
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look on your 'actual' data around the middle/bottom of your sheet.
there should be a measurement for thrust angle.
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 11:28 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by mahout
Your drawings are inaccurate. The cocked wheel is more apt to occur when hub rings are so hard they do not let the wheel nest in the lug cones, which are concentric to the hub post or axle centerline. And must be. The hub cover is merely an add on and does not have to be so precise.
Ok I know I said I would stay away but you guys keep luring me back in here;

My sketches are not inaccurate as they are not to scale, nor reflect anything other than exaggerated forces... not actually a cocked wheel. Hubcentric rings will NOT cause you to have a cocked wheel, that is hogwash and even you know that.

I will correct myself on something that you guys actually overlooked before, the theory on not breaking the studs off is actually dependent on loading the studs with tension to create a enough friction across the face of the hub so that shear loading does not occur directly on the studs. My apologies in suggesting the studs bolstered the shear forces directly.

I still maintain that rings will help by preventing vibration as I described before when forces are applied eccentrically on the wheel.

Originally Posted by Kenchan
nope, not kidding ya. it's the way it is.

"First off, tire grip is what exerts the force on the wheel. If you had no grip (as suggested above) you would fly off the end of a corner."

now you're changing the entire point of your figure you made for us, no?
you wanted to show the twisting action from lateral g, the vibrations,
between the hub and the back of the wheel... well, there should be
no movement because the tires will flex and break loose before that
happens given that the lugs are torqued correctly.

yes, honda made the wheels hubcentric to make them easier to
install to keep labor/maintenance cost and greif down. if they
were true hubcentric wheels the lugs would not have a taper.
also the hubs would need to be made of material that won't rust
(stainless = higher cost). otherwise the wheels would get stuck
on the hub from rusting. you'll have to do a lot of figure-8's with
loose lugs to remove the wheels off the hub in snowbelt areas.


your final word is imo irresponsible. you bring in a weak
argument that you can't really prove and now you don't care.
that's not the way it should be done.

i recommend to all you readers to who are intereted this thread
to read about hubcentric and lugcentric wheels, how they
differ in construction (materials included) and design, and what
the pro's/con's are.
Kenchan, the forces MUST be transfered to the car when you corner. I don't understand what you are suggesting by the tires will absorb all the forces because you need the forces to change the direction of your 2500lb car.

My point has been the same all along, when you corner you will have some tension forces being applied to the lugs. I am not suggesting your wheels are going to fly off as a result, however I am suggesting there is some deflection that will occur (based on your rim materials, design and construction) which will exert forces on the stud that could be mitigated by using a hubcentric ring which basically would absorb the forces in the form of compression. If this wasn't true then why would Honda make hubcentric wheels instead of just using a cheaper universal fit.

The more important function being that it does center your wheels regardless of how inaccurate your bolt holes may be... this is especially true on multi-fit wheels. Equally as important it will dampen any vibration caused by an imbalance.

My final word is/was not irresponsible; like I keep saying regardless of the theory behind it in practical use we have members on this forum with this car that experience vibration as a result of not using these rings. The problem "Magically" goes away when they install them. A simple search online will reveal this same exact story on pretty much any forum that discusses after market wheels.

Weak argument Pffft, that statement is ironic.

What I do agree with is readers should be doing their own research. We have a lot of faceless internet opinions (myself included). Not exactly a substitute for getting the facts yourself.
 

Last edited by Sugarphreak; Aug 18, 2008 at 11:40 PM.
Old Aug 19, 2008 | 01:09 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by kenchan
look on your 'actual' data around the middle/bottom of your sheet.
there should be a measurement for thrust angle.
the paperwork is down in the car, i'll get it tomorrow and let you know then.
 
Old Aug 19, 2008 | 02:54 AM
  #60  
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the car may always pull right due to road crown, also if you are a big fat guy or carry alot of weight int the car make sure you or the stuff is in the car during the alignment.if not disregard the sentence.

ps
stop the frickin arguing, if you want to bitch slap each other go play soccer with all the other whiners.
 



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