Rev Matching...I Need Some Advice
#21
08-24-2008, 01:00 PM
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It's physics. something will wear out if the rev doesn't match when everything is engaged together (engine-transmission/gear-tires).
#22
08-24-2008, 01:36 PM
I would figure that revving while clutching in would **** the car up more than downshifting when it's natural for the transmission to smoothly engage without need of throttle blipping ???
Dunno if I made it clear, but when I downshift, the rpms don't jump to higher than 3k. It provides enough engine brake force for me to not have to push my footbrake too hard. Doubt I'm damaging anything by doing this.
Dunno if I made it clear, but when I downshift, the rpms don't jump to higher than 3k. It provides enough engine brake force for me to not have to push my footbrake too hard. Doubt I'm damaging anything by doing this.
Last edited by trancedsailor; 08-24-2008 at 01:43 PM.
#23
08-24-2008, 01:42 PM
I think they're the same. When you step in the clutch, the engine disengages from the transmission. When you blip, the engine speeds up. But since the engine isn't connected to the tranny, when you blip doesn't matter.
In addition, When the clutch pedal is in, what you do with the shift knob and the gas pedal are independent of each other. the engine spins in air, and the transmission/shifter are in their own separate world too. That's why either method won't have any difference.
If you really want to be gentle to the synchros, double clutch:
1) clutch in
2) shift to neutral
3) clutch pedal OUT
4) blip
5) clutch pedal in
6) shift in next gear
7) clutch pedal out
This one, all must be done in that specific sequence. Remember neutral is a "gear," and not the same as pressing in the clutch. The methods described by the thread starter rev match engine speed with tire speed. This one rev matches engine speed, tire speed, AND transmission speed.
In addition, When the clutch pedal is in, what you do with the shift knob and the gas pedal are independent of each other. the engine spins in air, and the transmission/shifter are in their own separate world too. That's why either method won't have any difference.
If you really want to be gentle to the synchros, double clutch:
1) clutch in
2) shift to neutral
3) clutch pedal OUT
4) blip
5) clutch pedal in
6) shift in next gear
7) clutch pedal out
This one, all must be done in that specific sequence. Remember neutral is a "gear," and not the same as pressing in the clutch. The methods described by the thread starter rev match engine speed with tire speed. This one rev matches engine speed, tire speed, AND transmission speed.
learn from the best--dog-boxed wrx
Last edited by arsonall; 08-24-2008 at 01:46 PM. Reason: added video
#26
08-24-2008, 11:21 PM
Well, this will open a real can of worms: according to Click and Clack on Car Talk, the only time you should down shift - engine brake - is in the mountains. In normal traffic put the clutch in, apply the brake, and when at a complete stop move into 1st gear. I was never taught this way but they swear it is the best for the engine and clutch.
#29
08-25-2008, 02:34 AM
Well, this will open a real can of worms: according to Click and Clack on Car Talk, the only time you should down shift - engine brake - is in the mountains. In normal traffic put the clutch in, apply the brake, and when at a complete stop move into 1st gear. I was never taught this way but they swear it is the best for the engine and clutch.
then brake or whatever till you stop, THEN put it in first.
#30
08-25-2008, 05:02 PM
Personally, I've been clutch in, blip, shift and clutch out fast before the RPMs drop. No one taught me the right thing to do, I think i read it somewhere or on some online tutorial lol.
#31
08-25-2008, 06:06 PM
I'd just keep it in gear until just above idle (1K RPM or so) then clutch in and put it in neutral. Coasting down in neutral wastes gas and is illegal in many areas.
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