the plugs would be the most affordable solution, they don't look that bad

you could attempt making your own flush deck garnish. that would be sweet.

 

Ha, making my own is out of the question im not that handy. But I PM'ed I-kona maybe he would be interested in making me one. Then it'd be of quality and one of a kind. I basically just need this done by August same with all my other mods. All in preparation for honda day!

 

When is Honda Day? I'll need wheels and ikonas trio of shaved parts by then. Maybe JDM visor swap as well.

 

Ha it's all a race in New Jersey for Fit4War. The next Honda Day is in August not sure what day honestly. HondaDay.com for info!

 

I would appreciate anyone chiming in that has any information on the Mugen Tailgate Cover. I emailed King Motor sports I will see what they say.

 

You could seal the holes with silicone then apply a sheet of
red vinyl over that whole area.
Got the idea from looking at the silver Fit on Hondafittuner
where the holes are it's black. They could of filled it then painted black or just vinyl that area.

 

Your suggestion just gave me an idea to delete my antenna when I wrap my roof. Thanks dude! lol

 

I was thinking of putting a black vinyl accross that part but how would I go about getting those plastic things out? How would I plug those holes cleanly and enouph that nothing can get it there.

 

Just heard back from King Motor Sports!! They can order the part for me and want $177. I like this price and I will be purchasing one with my next check! Just emailed them back to clarify this will fit my 07' USDM honda fit sport. That way there are no surprises when I receive it. Once I get that piece I will then need to get both painted. now to decide whether to paint the cover black or red.

 

^ that is pretty cheap for a Mugen part.

 

Lol it's such a tiny piece!!!

Scott at king motor sports confirms this will fit my car. Now to wait a week for my check, then wait for the part, then get it painted, then mount the spoiler. Damn I just want to *poof* all done.

 

I'm glad we figured this out :P

Paint it red.

I might do this same wing depending on how it looks. I'll be home before you get your next check so I wanna check it out when you install it lol

 

you can help with the install lol I want to be careful as heel drilling these holes in my car! Not sure also doesn't seem like the bolts go through the top of the spoiler how is that possible the stock holes don't come through to the inside of the car.

 

I dunno. I am not inclined to drill holes in the car. I'd take it to Honda maybe and see if they can drill it in for you? Maybe.

 

honda!? no no never going there again. I will bring it to a body shop before honda.

 

1. Prep the surface by washing it with dawn or a similar degreaser soap, then claybar, then alcohol. If it just uses the holes with no tape in conjunction you can skip the first two and just use alcohol.
2. Apply some high-quality (usually green or blue in color, available at paint stores) masking tape over the entire area that you will be drilling.
3. Measure the holes you will be drilling.
4. Measure the holes you will be drilling again.
5. Mark holes on masking tape.
6. Drill using a high quality (kobalt) center drill bit #1 or #2 (thats what they are called, make sure you use one) directly in the center of the marked holes (centered is crucial)
7. Use a high quality (kobalt) Step Bit to drill out the starter holes to your final required hole size. Step bits are fantastic for clean sheetmetal holes and they don't jump around, but wear down quickly.
8. Clean up any leftover burrs around the holes, if any, optimally using the hole deburring attachment with a Dremel.
9. Peel off masking tape and clean the area.
10. Re-apply masking tape over the entire drilled area leaving a 1/4" gap between each hole and the surrounding tape.
11. In several light coats, apply a zinc-based anti-corrosive primer to the hole edge areas--try to get it in the hole as well but keep the coats light and allow ample dry time between each coat, times vary depending on what you get but most zinc-enhanced anti-corrosive primers dry within 10-15 minutes, but I always wait longer.
12. Peel tape and allow to paint to fully dry. You shouldn't have excess primer, just around/in the holes.
13. Prep area with alcohol again at this point if you are on using tape in conjunction.
14. Mount!

These are instructions that my friend (who is painting my rear garnishes) gave me for mounting my lower rear garnish.
As far as my garnish goes, I'm using bolts because I don't trust tape. e.g. solbrothers garnish tape failed after a year....

He emphasized on anti-corrosive around the drill holes since it exposes unprotected metal--that's really your only long term worry.

Also important to note, use double sided tape in conjunction if you don't mind the extra effort--it will help guide water away from the seam so that the anti-corrosive preventative protection you just applied is even less exposed.

 

I think a body shop will take care of this for me.

But im confused, in the bottom of the spoiler there are 4 holes. Two on each side but they are on the bottom and they dont go completely through to the top. Maybe im not understanding because im thinking of the stock spoiler but it's held on by bolts which unscrew from the TOP of the spoiler. How would I go about screwing something in through the bottom?

 

Drill holes from inside and bolt it through the inside of the hatch above the glass but that area has form raised sheet metal so it would probably loose form quickly if overtightened.

 

Exactly so how the hell are they bolting this on. I've even seen pictures of the spoiler on and none have holes through the top. Maybe bolt it on as you side and double side tape that shit everywhere possible. To the window also. You can see in this pic theres tape holding it to the window

 

Wow, that is going to cost a bundle for fitment.

I just went out to my car to check out my tailgate, I pulled off the rubber plug that closes the spot for the JDM wiring bundle that you can see on the left side. With the plug out, you can see the bolt coming in from the spoiler, so it would actually be quite simple to drill a hole nearby with careful measurement.

After drilling through the first layer of sheet metal from the inside-up at the bolt spots, it would expose the spoiler bolt holes and the anchors, so you can just thread the bolt right through the existing anchor. You would leave the bolt seated from the inside at the outer sheet metal, and just use your drill points on the inner sheet metal as "access holes".