whats up guys just came onboard have a 11 sport pretty happy with it. its dumped with an intake to will post pics later.

 

Welcome to FitFreak!

 

hopefully i am in the right place. I quit meddling in forums years ago but a new car new purpose brings me back.
I bring an abundance of F.I. turbo hybriding diagnosis fabrication and tuning knowledge and run a small turbo parts shop in Albuquerque. NM hopefully i can help as well.

 

Ooh awesome. Please do tell us about that turbo Civic in your signature too. It looked harmless at first, but that turbo manifold...

 

Welcome! I'm sure you knowledge will help out and make for interesting discussion.

 

If nothing else we can just flame it up a bit, that was always fun.
You really wana hear about just another ek.?

I wana know about the cast grade of fit pistons ring land thickness and
What you guys are doing to work with the counless challenges faced
When turbo charging these cars.
I guess I should start by searching......

The civ pics are old its painted now with all kinds of jdm shiz bolted on
New manifold mostly visual mods. The motor is GE sleeved gsr. Type R
Top end. Lsd with street slicks. Turbo is my own custom 70trim.
Turned 361whp (daily drive tune) on 12psi & 386whp on 18psi
This car is the pinnacle of budget racing tho, I dont have a large operating
Budget and the fit helps with that as I have a driving job.
Can go on for days ....how much more you want to know?

 

Im also at 4500 feet elivation should be a sub11 second car a little closer to sea level

 

welcome, sick EK. Its always nice to have another guy here that knows what there talking about and maybe not afraid to push the limits of the Fit

 

Increased boost 6psi and only picked up 15whp?

Somethings out of whack there..

"70 trim" on the compressor side I am guessing? What are the actual wheel specs on both sides? (Inducer/Exducer) Turbine A/R? I have a few thoughts on whats going on there.

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Also how much power do you want to make with your GE? Stock internals are pretty stout, provided you can tune.

The ringlands would not be my first concern with these motors, L15A1 or A7.

 

Heat soak bud I had the tuner run it up just to see what it could make.
Even at 12psi the charge temps are higher than I would like but im on a budget.
4 inch intake Outlet: 2.5 inch 70 ar wheel diameter: 65.55 /82.00

The turbo started as a run of the mil ebay t3t4 63/60
I kept only the turbine housing & wheel-shaft.
Put a water cooled bearing housing with a 360 thrust washer and the above
Comp housing parts, and through polishing (inside).
I would like to upgrade the turbine & housing to a good stage unit.
Im debating ditching this unit and paying for a single ball bearing maybe
Ceramic something cheap as im broke these days so I do what I can.

I know the reality is I prolly altered the map against my best intrest
Just as much as its helping but I could care less. If it gernades I will
Just construct another one with parts in stock.

But god when it spools it sounds unreal louder than some ball bearing units
I've gone up against. Let me dig up a video...

 

Welcome! As a guy who has an N/A build BB6 as my weekend car, I think you will love the Fit for daily driving! Awesome Civic btw...drools

 

What are you doing for charge cooling? Those eBay cores are no bueno. Have you thought about water/meth?

Don't bother with BB CHRAs. Really not worth it. Rebuild a JB for $150-200 or bend over for $650+ on a new BB CHRA?

The JB Holsets and BWs make some awe-inspiring noise, often outspool their Garrett counterparts, and tend to flow more too.

The noise is from the wheel aero, or perhaps that fleabay snail is unbalanced and making some noise because of it.

When making hybrid turbos you often end up with compromised compressor or turbine efficiency. I would wager you are familiar with the "golden ratios" concept though, so I won't preach/lecture

Sounds like you need more turbine wheel and housing, granted I am less than 1000ft above sea level, but to try and make an apples to apples comparison with your 66/82 compressor... I was able to move >65lbs/min @ 37-38psi on a 2.0L with a smaller 59/81mm compressor and a 74/64 turbine in a twin scroll T3 0.85A/R hotside.

 

Buddy I knew that was coming I wish I could map the cfm of what I have but I can only theorize.
A golden ratio, lol my other hardware is ever changing I still dont have the manifolds or cams I want to use for my final setup so I won't even aspire for golden anything. The noise is pure spoolage trust me (maybe some surge lol)
Its not play or excessive clearances everything is really close.

As far as charge cooling I have a 12"x6"x1" transmission cooler
Before AND after the turbine water path.
Again spot on the ebay bearing housing crap out faster than
Most people can comprehend. I get almost all my turbo related
Stuff from turbocharged.com there not forged but god I can get
A year+ out of them before the journal bearing area elongates.

I do need more umph on my hot side absoutley when I can get the time
And cash but for now its enough street demon for me.
I woukd love to pull your ideas if you have suggestions to any improvements.

And prelude to fit, I have to had my hands down in a bb1 fully built on 100 shot.
Only made 275whp on the spray tho.
We have so much to go over guys

 

I bet in the long run, you could pick up a Holset HX35 or HX40, or BW S200sx or S300sx and get a return on your investment in 4 years of not having to buy/rebuild the ebay turbos. Performance would be dramatically increased in terms of whp/psi and long term costs..

Am I reading it correctly that you are using a transmission fluid cooler as a charge cooler?
Or are you using that to cool the coolant leaving the turbo's CHRA? Or is that to cool the Oil before returning to the pan?

Sorry, but I may be misunderstanding you

The reference to the "golden ratios" for compressor v. turbine wheel sizing, and housing A/R is going to be more critical than a given cam or manifold choice. Though all of the above should be picked to be complementary.

For a compressor that size, if you are sticking with hybridizing garrett and ebay units, you would want consider something like a "P-trim" turbine.

IATs would drop and power would pick up. Obviously a bigger open or twinscroll housing with a big turbo back would go a long way here as well for a pump gas tune.

The less drive pressure required, the better. For a very rough explanation, you want to keep the compressor and turbine within 10% difference in major diameter on a given gas motor. More to it than that of course, but its a good place to start.

A bigger hotside would help a lot as well.

You may see it as laggier initially, but a lot of people don't realize that with a proper match on hot and cold side balance, you can go with a bigger, laggier turbo and still make more power under the curve.

So it will be faster even though you don't feel the hit of the smaller turbo with the lower boost threshold.

If this is a drag car that sees street duty, and you are already north of 350fwhp, more lag may be welcome anyways.

You're going to make it up on the back half of the 1320.

Besides you can always two-step off the line, and use boost-by-gear.

 

Of course, the easiest and cheapest thing you can do is simply use the EGR port to log drive pressure with a MAP sensor and compare it to your Intake manifold pressure and see where you are before changing your setup.

 

Im using transmission coolers before and after the chra or bearing housing (not ebay)to cool coolant. The intercooler is 28x12x3
There are so many things I want to do turbo wise I would love to discuss with you
On top of displacement cam angles powerband gear ratios.......another thread.
I will put up some videos later so you can hear this thing in action.

 

Sounds good, I may be on later!

 

well heres a video where you can hear the turbo exceptionally well.
What its like. - YouTube
its something like 30-90 in 3 or 4 seconds this is 12psi raw
also when i had a cracked windsheild
after watching it again you can hear the tires pealing as well