Log: Towing a 4x8 UHaul trailer with a Fit
Glad I could give you some useful input. Just ask if you have more questions.
Here are side by side photos.


Another plus I noticed with the hitch installed is that the cars handling tightened up some. Hillbilly sway bar, haha
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I wasn't joking, just didn't use the best word. Some might think of "tightened" as faster turnin, etc. I should have said "stiffened" for slightly less roll and a little more planted feel in the rear. Improvements could be seat of the pants imaginary but you're basically adding a very strong rear sway bar connecting the two sides of the car so why wouldn't it?
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Wow, quite a trip. I don't think I would have a cajones to do this, but there had to be more than one puckering moments. Guess I'm just a wimp that won't tow with anything less than my V8 truck, but glad to know it can be done.
Hitch wise, I've had too luck in the past with Uhaul hitches. Got one for the wife a few months ago and was impressed with the quality. They also have a lifetime warranty on those, even if you get in a wreck. I'm thinking of getting one for the Fit (for a bike rack).
Hitch wise, I've had too luck in the past with Uhaul hitches. Got one for the wife a few months ago and was impressed with the quality. They also have a lifetime warranty on those, even if you get in a wreck. I'm thinking of getting one for the Fit (for a bike rack).
I wasn't joking, just didn't use the best word. Some might think of "tightened" as faster turnin, etc. I should have said "stiffened" for slightly less roll and a little more planted feel in the rear. Improvements could be seat of the pants imaginary but you're basically adding a very strong rear sway bar connecting the two sides of the car so why wouldn't it?
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Last edited by phenoyz; Jun 18, 2013 at 01:55 PM.
The hitch doesn't come close to doing what a sway bar does. It's just like an additional crossmember, and It might add stiffness to the chassis, but doubt it could be felt. Except in your mind.
As for performance, in reality all it could do, is reduce mpg, because of the 30+/- #'s.
As for performance, in reality all it could do, is reduce mpg, because of the 30+/- #'s.
The hitch doesn't come close to doing what a sway bar does. It's just like an additional crossmember, and It might add stiffness to the chassis, but doubt it could be felt. Except in your mind.
As for performance, in reality all it could do, is reduce mpg, because of the 30+/- #'s.
As for performance, in reality all it could do, is reduce mpg, because of the 30+/- #'s.
Either case, I highly doubt it would do anything to the MPG. Or for performance, for that matter. But you may have given Curt a whole new marketing idea.
Adding weight to a car will hurt mpg. as well as performance. It may be only .1 mpg, or less, but it still reduces it. Thats the same reason a race car team, will try to save ounces here and there, to lower car weight. Same reason hypermiling people leave the spare tire home.
Adding weight to a car will hurt mpg. as well as performance. It may be only .1 mpg, or less, but it still reduces it. Thats the same reason a race car team, will try to save ounces here and there, to lower car weight. Same reason hypermiling people leave the spare tire home.
I wonder how much weight it would take to make the mpg. go down. 50#? 100#'s? 200#'s?
It would be interesting if a test could be done, under controlled conditions, with different weights, tire size and pressure, a/c on and off, windows down, etc.
When we check our mileage, the wind direction and strength, is usually different. That alone makes accurate test impossible.
I wish I had use of the chassis dyno, I used years ago. It would be interesting, to run tests.
I was happy to see, my 2013 Fit m/t was getting over 50 mpg at 40 mph today, with the hitch on. Straight, flat road, with cruise on, for 3 miles.
It would be interesting if a test could be done, under controlled conditions, with different weights, tire size and pressure, a/c on and off, windows down, etc.
When we check our mileage, the wind direction and strength, is usually different. That alone makes accurate test impossible.
I wish I had use of the chassis dyno, I used years ago. It would be interesting, to run tests.
I was happy to see, my 2013 Fit m/t was getting over 50 mpg at 40 mph today, with the hitch on. Straight, flat road, with cruise on, for 3 miles.
I wasn't joking, just didn't use the best word. Some might think of "tightened" as faster turnin, etc. I should have said "stiffened" for slightly less roll and a little more planted feel in the rear. Improvements could be seat of the pants imaginary but you're basically adding a very strong rear sway bar connecting the two sides of the car so why wouldn't it?

On a USDM GE there is a large "Crash bar" that is covered by the plastic bumper that does the same thing by connecting the frame rails together so it probably wouldn't help a GE as much.
Last edited by loudbang; Jun 19, 2013 at 01:44 AM.
I agree completely. I haven't read anyone complain about any of the hitch brands they've put on a Fit.
Indianapolis to Oklahoma City
Hi,
I'm about to make a (slightly) similar trek: Indianapolis to Oklahoma City. Almost the same setup as the OP, except I'm driving a 2013 M/T...probably not as heavily laden?
Any tips, ideas, or warnings? (esp. with regard to shifting)
I'm about to make a (slightly) similar trek: Indianapolis to Oklahoma City. Almost the same setup as the OP, except I'm driving a 2013 M/T...probably not as heavily laden?
Any tips, ideas, or warnings? (esp. with regard to shifting)
With a manual transmission, there's a lot less of a concern with keeping the transmission lubricant cool than with an automatic; the torque converter generates a lot more heat in the fluid than anything in a manual transmission because the fluid in the converter is actually transmitting the power. Rev matching and otherwise good shifting technique is pretty much all that's required. It's generally best to tend towards lower gears and higher revs than for normal cruising (more to avoid lugging the engine unnecessarily than anything).
If you don't have experience maneuvering a trailer, it wouldn't hurt at all to take an empty trailer and your car to an empty parking lot and practicing a bit. Turns have to be taken widely (or rather, a bit "late"), and backing a trailer is sometimes a bit of an art form.
I would suggest chocking the trailer wheels when you stop, especially if you're on an incline of any sort. Far better to be safe than sorry.
In addition to what DrrewE already mentioned, also keep in mind that the handling is also compromised when you're towing. Definitely no sudden jerking of the steering wheel, slam-braking or dodging bullets when changing lanes or handling on/off ramps.
Last thing you want is fishtailing or worse, that trailer passing you by. And yes, definitely, don't sit on those brakes.
Good luck!
Back in 1973, I was at a gas station out West, when a car was towed in. It had rolled over. The ladies that were in the car said, that the small trailer they were towing started swaying side to side, and all of a sudden the car rolled over!!! The car was a lot heavier than a Fit!
Be careful.
Be careful.




