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Log: Towing a 4x8 UHaul trailer with a Fit

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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 06:32 AM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by FITEsq
Ultrawolf--you are definitely selling me on the Curt. Great points about the vertical. Thanks for taking the time. The hitch shop was pushing the Curt, but the 4-year hitch salesman was not as articulate as you are on why.
Glad I could give you some useful input. Just ask if you have more questions.
 
Old Jun 18, 2013 | 07:19 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by Ultrawolf
...I also think it gives the cleanest installed look because you don't have the funny looking part that loops around the tail pipe like the other brands.
I guess looks are subjective because I actually feel the opposite. The Curt is too truck looking for me whereas the others seem to tuck under and hide/flow with the cars looks more. You are right about that funny loop around the tailpipe though, gotten used to it I guess but it bugged me at first. But whatever hitch he chooses there is no loser. All are quality built and bolt up to the Fit effortlessly.

Here are side by side photos.


Another plus I noticed with the hitch installed is that the cars handling tightened up some. Hillbilly sway bar, haha

_
 
Old Jun 18, 2013 | 09:19 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by SilverbulletCSVT
Another plus I noticed with the hitch installed is that the cars handling tightened up some. Hillbilly sway bar, haha

_
 
Old Jun 18, 2013 | 12:07 PM
  #124  
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Last edited by Wanderer.; Jun 19, 2013 at 03:02 PM. Reason: hotlink broke my bad lol
Old Jun 18, 2013 | 01:09 PM
  #125  
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I wasn't joking, just didn't use the best word. Some might think of "tightened" as faster turnin, etc. I should have said "stiffened" for slightly less roll and a little more planted feel in the rear. Improvements could be seat of the pants imaginary but you're basically adding a very strong rear sway bar connecting the two sides of the car so why wouldn't it?

_
 
Old Jun 18, 2013 | 01:09 PM
  #126  
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Wow, quite a trip. I don't think I would have a cajones to do this, but there had to be more than one puckering moments. Guess I'm just a wimp that won't tow with anything less than my V8 truck, but glad to know it can be done.

Hitch wise, I've had too luck in the past with Uhaul hitches. Got one for the wife a few months ago and was impressed with the quality. They also have a lifetime warranty on those, even if you get in a wreck. I'm thinking of getting one for the Fit (for a bike rack).
 
Old Jun 18, 2013 | 01:33 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by SilverbulletCSVT
I wasn't joking, just didn't use the best word. Some might think of "tightened" as faster turnin, etc. I should have said "stiffened" for slightly less roll and a little more planted feel in the rear. Improvements could be seat of the pants imaginary but you're basically adding a very strong rear sway bar connecting the two sides of the car so why wouldn't it?

_
It wouldn't because the hitch is simply bolted to the car's floor. It does not even touch any of the rear suspension components, so it cannot make even the slightest difference in eliminating body roll in turns.
 
Old Jun 18, 2013 | 01:50 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by kng229
Some photos from the trip:

Fits right in.
My IKEA purchase - four carts, $2500 - all fit in the Fit and trailer.
Holy Jesus Superstar
 

Last edited by phenoyz; Jun 18, 2013 at 01:55 PM.
Old Jun 18, 2013 | 02:41 PM
  #129  
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The hitch doesn't come close to doing what a sway bar does. It's just like an additional crossmember, and It might add stiffness to the chassis, but doubt it could be felt. Except in your mind.
As for performance, in reality all it could do, is reduce mpg, because of the 30+/- #'s.
 
Old Jun 18, 2013 | 03:09 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by over40pirate
The hitch doesn't come close to doing what a sway bar does. It's just like an additional crossmember, and It might add stiffness to the chassis, but doubt it could be felt. Except in your mind.
As for performance, in reality all it could do, is reduce mpg, because of the 30+/- #'s.
I have no clue as to what the effects of tow hitches are on stiffness, but my old Integra Type R had a truck bar, which went across the back side of the bumper, from one side to the other. Not sure if it did much, but I'm sure Honda put it in there for a reason.

Either case, I highly doubt it would do anything to the MPG. Or for performance, for that matter. But you may have given Curt a whole new marketing idea.
 
Old Jun 18, 2013 | 03:23 PM
  #131  
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Adding weight to a car will hurt mpg. as well as performance. It may be only .1 mpg, or less, but it still reduces it. Thats the same reason a race car team, will try to save ounces here and there, to lower car weight. Same reason hypermiling people leave the spare tire home.
 
Old Jun 18, 2013 | 05:00 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by over40pirate
Adding weight to a car will hurt mpg. as well as performance. It may be only .1 mpg, or less, but it still reduces it. Thats the same reason a race car team, will try to save ounces here and there, to lower car weight. Same reason hypermiling people leave the spare tire home.
Goes without saying. But will it make any significant difference? No. In my other car (Subaru), we were averaging 30MPG without the hitch. With the hitch, we're at 30MPG. It's like saying we should all take a crap before driving to save weight. In the end, doesn't matter.
 
Old Jun 18, 2013 | 06:08 PM
  #133  
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I wonder how much weight it would take to make the mpg. go down. 50#? 100#'s? 200#'s?
It would be interesting if a test could be done, under controlled conditions, with different weights, tire size and pressure, a/c on and off, windows down, etc.
When we check our mileage, the wind direction and strength, is usually different. That alone makes accurate test impossible.
I wish I had use of the chassis dyno, I used years ago. It would be interesting, to run tests.
I was happy to see, my 2013 Fit m/t was getting over 50 mpg at 40 mph today, with the hitch on. Straight, flat road, with cruise on, for 3 miles.
 
Old Jun 19, 2013 | 01:38 AM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by SilverbulletCSVT
I wasn't joking, just didn't use the best word. Some might think of "tightened" as faster turnin, etc. I should have said "stiffened" for slightly less roll and a little more planted feel in the rear. Improvements could be seat of the pants imaginary but you're basically adding a very strong rear sway bar connecting the two sides of the car so why wouldn't it?
Overseas they sell a stiffing bar for GDs that goes inside the rear bumper and connects the frame rails just like the tow bar does. Guess they think you are correct.

On a USDM GE there is a large "Crash bar" that is covered by the plastic bumper that does the same thing by connecting the frame rails together so it probably wouldn't help a GE as much.

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Last edited by loudbang; Jun 19, 2013 at 01:44 AM.
Old Jun 19, 2013 | 02:33 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by SilverbulletCSVT
But whatever hitch he chooses there is no loser. All are quality built and bolt up to the Fit effortlessly._
I agree completely. I haven't read anyone complain about any of the hitch brands they've put on a Fit.
 
Old Jul 2, 2013 | 08:52 PM
  #136  
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Indianapolis to Oklahoma City

Hi,
I'm about to make a (slightly) similar trek: Indianapolis to Oklahoma City. Almost the same setup as the OP, except I'm driving a 2013 M/T...probably not as heavily laden?

Any tips, ideas, or warnings? (esp. with regard to shifting)
 
Old Jul 3, 2013 | 10:13 AM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by jhelsley
Hi,
I'm about to make a (slightly) similar trek: Indianapolis to Oklahoma City. Almost the same setup as the OP, except I'm driving a 2013 M/T...probably not as heavily laden?

Any tips, ideas, or warnings? (esp. with regard to shifting)
Undoubtedly the most important caution is to take it easy and go at a slowish pace, especially when descending hills. Use engine braking going down hills by downshifting a gear or two. It's a lot easier to overheat the brakes when there's an extra half ton or more that they have to stop. By the same token, leave yourself extra space in front to have room to stop in an emergency—your stopping distances will be longer. (Also note that speed limits in some places are lower for vehicles towing trailers.)

With a manual transmission, there's a lot less of a concern with keeping the transmission lubricant cool than with an automatic; the torque converter generates a lot more heat in the fluid than anything in a manual transmission because the fluid in the converter is actually transmitting the power. Rev matching and otherwise good shifting technique is pretty much all that's required. It's generally best to tend towards lower gears and higher revs than for normal cruising (more to avoid lugging the engine unnecessarily than anything).

If you don't have experience maneuvering a trailer, it wouldn't hurt at all to take an empty trailer and your car to an empty parking lot and practicing a bit. Turns have to be taken widely (or rather, a bit "late"), and backing a trailer is sometimes a bit of an art form.

I would suggest chocking the trailer wheels when you stop, especially if you're on an incline of any sort. Far better to be safe than sorry.
 
Old Jul 3, 2013 | 01:17 PM
  #138  
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In addition to what DrrewE already mentioned, also keep in mind that the handling is also compromised when you're towing. Definitely no sudden jerking of the steering wheel, slam-braking or dodging bullets when changing lanes or handling on/off ramps. Last thing you want is fishtailing or worse, that trailer passing you by. And yes, definitely, don't sit on those brakes. Good luck!
 
Old Jul 3, 2013 | 10:54 PM
  #139  
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Great, will do.


Thanks!
 
Old Jul 4, 2013 | 08:32 AM
  #140  
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Back in 1973, I was at a gas station out West, when a car was towed in. It had rolled over. The ladies that were in the car said, that the small trailer they were towing started swaying side to side, and all of a sudden the car rolled over!!! The car was a lot heavier than a Fit!
Be careful.
 



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