Off topic, but how do I get pics from Facebook to show up in the post instead of just the link? This is the first time I've tried to post pics to FitFreak.

-Dustin

 

I have been pulling a light weight trailer, made by Pulmor, for about 3 years now. I used to pull a Harbor Freight kit trailer - but that trailer was pretty beat up and I sold it.


This trailer weighs about 400 pounds empty, has 32 cubic feet of enclosed space. The body is made from polyethylene, the frame is steel. The wheels are 13 inch, a torsion axle, and electric brakes. It has a 2 inch box frame piece on the back to take a bicycle carrier, an aluminum carrier on the top, and I added a 3 cubic foot tongue box for more storage. Total of 35 cubic feet that stays dry and secure.


I have had as much as 1100 pounds of gross weight (trailer and gear) with two kayaks, two bicycles, camping gear, an inflatable boat, motor, and kiteboarding gear. Typically I have about 700 pounds gross weight.


With nothing on the outside to add wind resistance, I get 36 MPG going 65. My recent trip to the Florida Keys, 3500 miles round trip I averaged 34 MPG with a windsurfer on top and speeds 65 to 70 (weight about 800 pounds).


I have a 2009 Honda Fit Sport, manual, air shocks, and electric brake controller. I use a Scan Gauge for mileage and to monitor temps. Never had any issue at all with engine temps towing. I have about 30,000 miles of towing with my Fit, now.


I have pictures in the album "Dave's Fit and Trailer".

 

That is a cool little trailer and your mpg is very impressive. I can't get 36 mpg pulling my Harbor Freight 4x8 trailer empty. Best I average is 32 mpg but that is driving 70-75 mph. When loaded down with two 350 lb motorcycles I drop to 28 mpg average at lower 65-70 mph speed. Wind resistance with the tall motorcycles effects the mpg more than the weight does. Once I got the bright idea of stretch wrapping the motorcycles to make them more streamlined. Ended up just creating more rear drag and I dropped to 24 mpg.

_

 

+1 that is a neat little trailer. I'm about the same with my Harbor Freight Trailer. It creates a lot more drag with the sidewalls on, but even loaded with the sidewalls I've never dropped below 30 MPG. But, that was on relatively flat highways mostly. I would agree that wind drag is a much bigger factor than actual weight though unless your doing a lot of hill climbing.

I can imagine that stretch wrapping flapping around like a loose sail. It doesn't matter how tightly you wrap something with plastic or a tarp sitting still, once you get on the highway it's a whole different story!

-Dustin

 

How fast do you drive when the speed limit is 80? No problems with someone riding yer tail?

 

How much does your trailer weight empty? The uhaul I'm looking to rent weighs 850 empty according to the website. I have an automatic with no extras added on. I'm worries about the weight I'll be pulling...should 1000 lbs be a max? Or do you think if I'm over a little it will it will still pull?

 

Mine weighs approx 350 lbs empty set up for motorcycle hauling and then add another 75 lbs when I have the stake bed sides installed.

Base trailer is 250 lbs, 3/4" plywood 4'x8' decking is 70 lbs, spare tire, trailer jack and wheel chocks adds the remaining weight.

_

 

Just chiming in with my 2 cents, but it won't have any trouble pulling the load especially if you aren't going up any big mountains. I think it would be a really good idea to add a tranny cooler, which I think you've already mentioned.

The trailer loaded with mulch that I pulled a couple of weeks ago probably weighed close to, if not as much as you're planning to pull and my 2012 Fit Sport A/T had no problem getting up to speed and stopping. I would compare the way it felt towing to hooking up a 3,000lb trailer to a full size pickup. Just don't go too fast and give plenty of room to stop.

-Dustin

 

Awesome - thanks for all the help guys! I'm getting the trailer hitch installed today. I found out that my mattress & box spring won't fit in the trailer so I'm leaving those behind, which helps bring the weight load down some. I do plan on adding transmission cooler before the trip too. With all that's been said here, I think I'll be just fine.

 

What size cooler should I get? I won't be running into any major inclines, but it can get windy in the plains. Also, the temperature will drop as I go north, but it's already pretty hot here in Texas.

Another question - I have the Fit Sport model so I just have "D" and "S" with the paddle shifts. Confession: I don't know how to correctly use the shifters. But from what I've read, it might be good to figure that out. How you recommend shifting or what gear should I aim for? Or would it be ok to stay in "D" the entire drive?

 

Whatever gear it takes to get up is the gear you should use coming down, will save a lot on the brakes.
Manual has a section on how shifter can be used.
I prefer plain auto transmission, if you really wanted to drive with shifters to full advantage they would need to be mounted so that they don't change positions with the wheel

 

I haven't added a tranny cooler to mine yet, but did find this DIY that was posted that lists a particular model of cooler:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...kevin1107.html
This guy has a GE, so that may be a little different than the GE8's (2009 - 2013).
I have loaded up my trailer pretty good, maybe 1200lbs or so total. But, all of my trips at that weight were only 5 - 10 miles and on relatively flat roads so I haven't worried too much about the transmission getting too hot. If I start towing longer distances more often I probably will go ahead and install one.

On the auto tranny I'm not sure that it matters that much. I've just been pulling with mine in D and it's been doing fine.

-Dustin

 

Alright, finally ended up ordering a hitch. (Edit) Curt from Amazon. Will probably end up with a trailer from Harbor Freight (40x48", most likely).

By the way, great deal on Amazon for the hitch receiver, ball mount and pin. $100 shipped.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GQ8F46/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=pe_385040_30332200_TE_it em

 

Am toying with the idea of a small tent trailer* behind my 2012 AT Base Fit to get back into long distance touring. All the hitches that were discussed here...were they full 2" receiver hitches, or the smaller ones usually seen for bike racks? If the smaller ones, anything special to make them ok for the U-Haul?

(*or maybe even a Harbor Freight trailer with a homemade box big enough for a slightly raised bed. Due to a stroke 3 years back I cannot handle sleeping bags on the floor or ground, I'd never be able to get up.)

NEVER MIND! I see they are the smaller class 1 hitches, that have a 200lb max weight. That's cool, now I know.

 

Check Tractor Supply, too. mine was $50 cheaper and been a fabulous use to haul even my lawn tractor tho maybe 100 miles might be a bit much.

 

I know this is an old post but it's still so helpful! I'm getting a hitch installed on my 2015 Fit next week and getting a small utility trailer to take on trips. Most notably I'll be towing it to burning man in two months, and have an array of odd things I'll be bringing with me. I have done lots of towing but always with big trucks so I was second guessing my decision to tow with my Fit. I'm feeling a lot better about it now after reading your cross country adventure and you've inspired me to also wrote about how mine goes. More stories about it would have definitely made me feel better about deciding one way or another.

 

Just be careful with heavier weight if you have an automatic/CVT. No issues with the manual transmission

 

It's an automatic/sport.

 

I've just arrived in Maine after towing my little utility trailer 800 miles from Ohio. It's the 4th time I've done this without any issues. The trailer probably weighs 400-500 lbs total (trailer plus cargo), and my 2009 Fit Sport probably had 500 lbs of people plus cargo inside. I drive in sport/manual mode and drop it to 4th at the slightest uphill grade. I do a couple of the steepest hills in 3rd. This route isn't the Rockies, but it does have 1000+ foot elevation changes. Except on open flats and downhills, I run between 3000-3500 RPM in 4th. On 3rd gear hills I'm around 4000. Overall, never an issue. I do keep the speed around 65 MPH max, which means almost everyone is passing me. That does make for a relaxing drive though.

A few little tips:

• I have Firestone Coil-Rite air bladders for my rear springs. I love the things. They keep the rear from sagging and make the handling feel much better. Very easy to install - there's a thread somewhere in the forum on suspension mods.
• My trailer is basically the smallest Harbor Freight model, but with a very long tongue like a boat trailer. I need the length for hauling long kayaks but I think the long tongue also makes the trailer more stable. It never wobbles or wiggles back there.
• My highway gas mileage is around 34-35 MPG with this setup. Not bad at all.

As long as you're sensible, the Fit seems to do fine towing for long distances.

 

I would take a look at the EcoHitch from Torkcentral:

(Torklift Central | Find Your EcoHitch - RVing and Towing)

if you are planning on pulling a trailer as opposed to using the Hitch as a bike rack.

They make a custom hitch for FIT that is the only one that attaches behind the crash plate, bolt on, hidden, that fuses in a horizontal fashion with the frame. Only the receiver shows. You can get a 2 inch receiver.

It's more expensive than the other generics used by U-haul, Hidden Hitch, etc. on the market, but for Towing with FIT, it's what you want.

They have certified installers in many states or use a body shop.

You still must observe the tow rating for the FIT.