Air conditioning in "in town" driving?
#1
Air conditioning in "in town" driving?
We are in the midst of a heatwave here in NE (100 degrees+90% humidity = yuck). Yesterday while driving around town (30 mph or so with stops for lights etc) I noticed the AC wasn't keeping up real well. This was especially noticeable when accelerating from a stop. The AC would push out warm, humid air for about 30 seconds after leaving a stop sign. Is this common? Should I have it checked out? To me its not a huge deal, but if its a sign of AC problems I want it addressed. It seems that the AC works best when the engine is revving higher up than I was doing around town. I guess that makes sense, but I think it should keep up no matter what.
John
John
#3
We hit over 115F with the humidity factor yesterday in Ottawa. I drove to a few meetings in my Fit with the AC on. It wasn’t as cool in the cabin compared to what I was used too, but as soon as I opened the door, my glasses fogged up, and the heat hit me like a brick. I had to use the recirculating air function a bit at red lights. I won’t complain for an AC system on such a small car. If the compressor were any bigger or have a smaller pulley, the Fit would be a complete dog off the line.
#5
Originally Posted by Jisch
We are in the midst of a heatwave here in NE (100 degrees+90% humidity = yuck). Yesterday while driving around town (30 mph or so with stops for lights etc) I noticed the AC wasn't keeping up real well. This was especially noticeable when accelerating from a stop. The AC would push out warm, humid air for about 30 seconds after leaving a stop sign. Is this common? Should I have it checked out? To me its not a huge deal, but if its a sign of AC problems I want it addressed. It seems that the AC works best when the engine is revving higher up than I was doing around town. I guess that makes sense, but I think it should keep up no matter what.
John
John
As stated, put it on recirculate. Even in city driving, with the vent set on bi-level, fan on three, you should freeze out of the car once it cools down (Nashville, TN where it has been in the 90s all week).
#6
AFAIK The Fit A/C is not directly attached (by belt drive) to the engine like most cars - it is an electric motor system so using it a lot just makes the alternator work more to keep everything at the proper power level. (I was trying to confirm the system spec. but I don't see anything on this forum or the internet - has somebody actually opened up their repair manual ?;-)
#7
Once it has cooled off a bit, switch to recirculate. What could be happening is the warmer, more humid air being pulled in over the evaporator is condensing and freezing. Switch to recirc, and the drier air in the cabin will get recirculated, cutting down the humidity that can condense on the evaporator.
It will also be more efficient, as cooling already cooled air isn't as much work as cooling HOT air from outside.
Also, the compressor won't be as efficient at idle or low engine speeds.
It will also be more efficient, as cooling already cooled air isn't as much work as cooling HOT air from outside.
Also, the compressor won't be as efficient at idle or low engine speeds.
#8
Originally Posted by tubaman
AFAIK The Fit A/C is not directly attached (by belt drive) to the engine like most cars - it is an electric motor system so using it a lot just makes the alternator work more to keep everything at the proper power level. (I was trying to confirm the system spec. but I don't see anything on this forum or the internet - has somebody actually opened up their repair manual ?;-)
http://collegehillshonda.softwareglo...All&vinsrch=no
#9
OK - as I said, AFAIK, and what I knew is apparently wrong! Someone from Australia (on a different vehicle list) had suggested that the Jazz A/C was not driven by the belt. I was not able to prove or disprove that by any info I could find on Honda websites...
#10
Here in LV I haven't had any problems with the A/C. Any we just got off a 100+ streak (yea only 98 today). Yeah I know its a dry heat. Other then agreeing with everyone that has posted here I would also recommend that you get your windows tinted if you haven't already. I have noticed a significant difference.
#11
Yes, this is perfectly normal. The ECU automatically disengages the a/c clutch at more than XX percent throttle opening (not sure what that is on the Fit). It also may cut it above a certain rpm, however I am sure that the rpm level is pretty high.
On my ITR using a Hondata ECU, these parmeters are user adjustable to whatever you want. If Hondata comes out with an ECU for the Fit, you could set them also.
On my ITR using a Hondata ECU, these parmeters are user adjustable to whatever you want. If Hondata comes out with an ECU for the Fit, you could set them also.
#12
Having the same weather up here in southern Ontario (120F heat index anyone? toss in 70% humidity just for giggles) and my A/C is doing fairly well, but I can tolerate heat okay. I try not to run it at full blast for very long... I think ANY A/C is going to struggle in this heat! But yeah I would think that problem you are having is fairly normal...
#13
When the car is parked in the sun, use a windshield sunshade and crack the windows to allow the heat to escape. Also, leave the windows open with the air-conditioning on recirculate for the first five minutes of driving to allow the hot air to escape. When the car is standing still in traffic there is less airflow across the condenser which reduces the system's ability to cool the car.
#14
Originally Posted by tubaman
OK - as I said, AFAIK, and what I knew is apparently wrong! Someone from Australia (on a different vehicle list) had suggested that the Jazz A/C was not driven by the belt. I was not able to prove or disprove that by any info I could find on Honda websites...
#15
Unbearable heat and humidity? Welcome to Thailand. Combine that with the pollution, and I haven't been in a car without the recirc function engaged in the last six years. To be fair, we have been in a relative cold snap here for the last couple of days. It's only 86 outside, but the humidity is still raging.
#17
Originally Posted by Spule 4
Open the hood.....
gonna be a tough thing to work on in the future!
#18
Originally Posted by Flyboybob
When the car is parked in the sun, use a windshield sunshade and crack the windows to allow the heat to escape. Also, leave the windows open with the air-conditioning on recirculate for the first five minutes of driving to allow the hot air to escape. When the car is standing still in traffic there is less airflow across the condenser which reduces the system's ability to cool the car.
bob
#19
Originally Posted by tubaman
have you done that? I just did and I can see the alternator quite easy, but the A/C compressor is buried quite deep under it - almost invisible! Without the drawings from the College Hills Honda site I would still have been unsure...
gonna be a tough thing to work on in the future!
gonna be a tough thing to work on in the future!
To remove it, it would be best to pull it from the bottom.
From everything I have seen under the hood, it seems like you can get to anything you need to. Not as easy as a 1959 Studebaker Lark VI, but not the worst I have worked on either.
#20
I'm noticing that with the A/C off, even with the temperature control all the way to cold, I still can't get the air coming out to be nearly as cool as the outside air. Is the heater valve not closing all the way? Our other car seems able to bring in outside air very close to outside temperature. Has anyone else noticed this?