This is taking weight reduction to the extreme:


The before and after is quite impressive, take a look!

 

Aw snap octane rumblings lol

IK22 plugs + DIY short ram + muffler delete + highest octane you can get at local gas station.

About the cheapest combo that combined would actually do something I think. You need to do all of them though, not just one. I think 13fit had the right idea and I think his goal was the same, cheap speed, nothing wrong with that.

 

Yup, this is generally the wrong group to discuss anything more complicated than plasti-chromed Autozone hood louvres with..

Who cares if we have repeatable results at the track, or even simpler than that: I can still log actual knock counts on 93oct in regular stop/go trafic because of our very high dynamic CR and then share the screenshots, only to be met with closed eyes and covered ears.

We have non-tuners who haven't even had any experience with other fuels let alone other grades of the same fuel.. but will post non-technical advertisements and magazine articles written by other laymen that agree with them.

It's faith based and not factual. It requires parsing of words and semantic games. You will see word abuse, particularly the words "designed" or "required."

It's entirely disingenous because for whatever reason they have a lot of emotion invested in this issue, that they have wasted days of their lives slamming their booger-hooks against cheeto encrusted keyboards because they have nothing else better to do with their time. To admit error would be to acknowledge how sad this is.

The facts are: it is only because of our knock sensor and the logic interpreting it that is used to control adaptive timing and fuel schemes that you can even get away with 87 in the first place. The language in the manuals actually state:

Taken directly from Page 186 in the USDM 2012 Honda Fit Owner's manual, viewable here:
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p.../TK61212OM.pdf

What you need to take away from this is that 87 oct fuel is the bare minimum the ECU is capable of providing a safety margin for.

That is not my interpretation, they specifically use the phrase "or higher." If it was "designed" for 87 it would simply say so.

Our Dynamic Compression Ratio is the reason why. Not only do we start with 10.4:1CR static, but we have a Cam and VTEC system design to keep cylinder pressure high throughout the rev range.

We have data, we have shared it:


See that? That green Line "K. Retard 5*?" See how it's sustained event for nearly 5 full seconds, while cruising in 3rd gear @ 25% throttle? That was on 93 oct in my car on a nice cool day!

We have the backing of the Manufacturer and the laws of physics.

But please.. listen to some internet experts with zero experience, lots of opinions and hardly know how to turn a wrench.

 

What "we" don't have are controlled studies stating anything above 87octane in stock cars improves performance where the manufacturer does not recommend or require higher than 87 octane.

"We" don't have anything from an enthusiast magazine stating this either.

"We" do have anecdotes and evidence from you and others where other variables (modifications) are not controlled, still without any evidence to support improved performance, either fuel consumption or power.

You have provided nothing but inferred performance gains with a bunch of silly posturing.

No, if it was designed for higher than 87 octane it would state higher octane is "recommended or required" as Honda/Acura does with other models.

There's nothing wrong with pumping some of the ol'ethel if that's what trips your trigger. I luv me a good octane rumble.

 

Research on this forum from back in 2008 when they dyno'd something like 10 cars in SoCal with Oscar Sr. of Jackson racing. They had everything, 100% stock as well as a few with basic mods and even a few of the early turbo/SC cars.

Colder plugs alone. IK-22, proved a consistent and measurable whp gain on ALL cars.

This combined with a higher octane, further advances timing. I have a fistful of dyno charts to prove this.

^All of this info is nothing new as I have re posted it umpteenbazillion times you all start bickering over semantics with octane numbers.


OP, you can make your own choices on what you want to do to your car, but feel free to research and draw your own conclusions.

The cheapest mods are free weight reduction like removing the jack&spare such as others have said.

If you decide you want to try it for your self cooler plugs like the Denso Iridium IK-22 can be had off of Amazon for around $40 or less shipped and are another easy change. Pumping whatever "premium" octane fuel is available to you for a few tanks is another simple thing you can test.

Until you get a really viable re-tune option ::coughFlashProcough:: you will only get very limited gains from the standard I/H/E.

Hope that helps.

 

Sawzall's liek $150 doe so not that cheap I guess.

 

Re: Colder plugs.
What are the disadvantages? In other words, why didn't Honda use them as stock plugs?

 

^

I've kinda actually done that.... Had 5 cars in the back yard at one point... down to 1 & 1/2 now made the scrap metal guys on the end of my block VERY happy LOL

 

Too cold can lead to fouling at idle and low rpm, but we'd be talking much colder.

You could also have a "stumble" for a few seconds, during cold start.

For reference, I have IK22s and run 93.. the car started just fine when it was -17F on my approaching 6-year old battery. Only when it was this cold have I felt this, brief as it was.

My DSM would be much more sensitive to this, between the E85 and 8.0:1CR with a massive set of cams.. I would bet she wouldn't start if left outside for a few hours. She has NGK BR9ES's at the moment, as boost goes up later next season it may wind up with BR10ES's.

 

This question is so original I cannot even comprehend what your saying.

 

Here's the cheapest way to add HP that I know of offhand: 10 HP for $120 or so. You could probably get 10 or so in the Fit without overloading things, for 100 HP more; but I don't think that would improve your passing ability at all. You'd also have to drive with the windows open and endure a rather hellacious racket.

10 HP TECUMSEH GENERATOR ENGINE

 

I want to do that just as a stress relief. The only time i've used a sawzall was very brief and unsatisfying.



While we're talking about cheap power and DSM is here too anyone have any luck/bad luck with the boxed Zex nitrous kits on stock motor? How does the stock ECU handle it? I've seen some D series take some abuse without much or any tuning back in the day and run like champs for years.

I assume it's a small shot on a WOT switch activate over 4k or something "safe" like that. I'll search later but I just figured it went with the topic.

 

Has anyone use water injection? I would think it would be the best of both worlds. I would still use premium but Honda has been experimenting with a ethanol injection setup for mpg and power.