New 2015 fit owner and am looking to purchase a bike rack. This was a thread several years ago but I'm hoping to get some updated thoughts and opinions.
I can't seem to make up my mind between a hitch mounted and roof rack- and would maybe even consider a trunk option. I'd love to know people's opinions and what kind of money was shelled out for the set up.

The cons for the roof I keep hearing about are 1) drag, lifting the bike, 3) ruining the bike driving through a parking garage (!). The cons for the hitch 1) heavy load might effect rear suspension 2) no access to trunk.

I've heard arguments against all of these cons. In the end though, the cheapest option would make the cons permissible for me.

I've been quoted $200 to buy and install a hitch plus an additional >$150 for the hitch rack. For the roof set up, i would need to purchase the whole kit and caboodle.
Thanks!

 

I'd prefer the hitch option. The Curt hitch is 1-1/4" ($125 on etrailer) where as the Torklift Hitch ($264 USD) comes in a 2", but still a class I. You also have to cut into the bumper cover with the Torklift, Curt you do not. You can easily buy a bike rack that folds out of the way in order to open the trunk/hatch no problem.

Getting the roof rack is certainly doable and available. I personally don't do kayaking or skiing so i've never needed it. I've seen how roof racks scratch the shit out of the roof too. Only the real good ones have mounts that are non invasive and prevent damage to your paint finish.

My 0.02 cents

Cheers!

 

I definitely prefer to put both bikes inside the car (no issues with weather, aerodynamics, theft, dirt, access to hatch, etc). However, if I had to travel with them outside the car, I would definitely do the trailer hitch thing (easy to load, no damage to car caused by the rack, ability to have access to hatch if you get a swing-away rack, more aerodynamic than a roof mounted rack, etc).

 

I'll be placing an order for a 2016 next week, but I have been using a hitch-mounted rack on my Ridgeline for 2 years now. The hitch is easier simply because lifting the bikes up high enough can be a chore. This can be particularly difficult if you are using a cheaper, heavier bike. A good hitch mount will also tilt down so you can still open the hatch.

The quality of bike you are carrying should definitely be a factor in the rack you chose. The mountain bikes my wife and I ride retail for over $5000, so investing in a quality rack only makes sense. I have tried the hanging style in the past but they are a PITA, especially when putting on more than 1 bikes. Tray -style, but the type that puts the arm on the front wheel, not on the top tube, is the way to go. I had a tray rack with the arm that clamped on the top tube that resulted in damage to the paint/top coat, never again.

We use a KUAT NV Products | Küat Racks and absolutely love it. They also have a less fancy, lighter model called THE SHERPA. We can carry 4 bikes on the Ridgeline, but I would reduce it down to the 2-bike option when we put it on the Fit. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for and they have terrific factory support.

 

This new rack from KUAT would be fantastic for a Fit.

Products | Küat Racks

It uses the same locking arms as on the much beefier, more expensive NV, but in a simpler (and lighter) package.

Trust me, you can't go wrong with KUAT. And in the rare instance you have a problem, pick up the phone and you will connect immediately with someone that will help you. I never had such luck dealing with Thule or Yakima in the past.

 

I was thinking roof rack for my bicycle to take to the city, but then I noticed the garage structure clearance is kind of low and wondered if my bikes would clear or not.

After thinking about it for a while, I decided to get a folding bike (Dahon) and just carry it in its bag in the truck. This way wont get dirty in rain or not much worry while parked.

 

I bought a couple of Dahon folders too.... Pics later of the car packed with folders and camping gear when the trip is done.

 

How about using trunk mount bike racks like Saris and Allen sports? They are easy to set up and remove.

 

Not sure where in NH you are, but I'm in the Concord area if you want to come and look at my setup. I went with a hitch mounted option. Easier for me to load and unload, less noise and less gas mileage issues. I use the hitch now for the rack and also to hold a harbor freight basket to do dump runs. I also had a hitch on my 2010 for the bike rack. On my 2010 I towed a small UHaul trailer to do a dump run or two and to tow a log splitter.

 

A piece of foam pipe insulation will protect your top tube from damage.

 

In the end I couldn't justify the extra cost of the ecohitch just to be the lab rat on confirming sport model fitment. I'm 90% sure it would be fine, but I still don't like the idea of having to cut the little black fin pieces. I'll cut a square in the bumper any day and use molding for a clean install, no problem, but I don't think it would look as clean with that sport trim.

On my 2019 Sport I went with the Drawtite hitch (~$95) and I'm extremely happy with it. Install was easy enough and while two sets of hands would be best, one person could definitely do it.

The ground clearance concerns are not really a factor. The whole thing sits pretty tight, and your gas tank, muffler, and OEM tow hook thing sit as low or lower than the hitch installed. There is a U bolt that sticks down about 1/2" below the factory tow hook, but if you ever did hit that it would not be problematic. Parking curbs would never be an issue with this. Potentially going up a really steep and sudden incline you could contact it but at that point it would probably protect or save your bumper. This is coming from someone who has loads of off road experience in the past and really understands overhang and clearance. I wouldn't worry about that with this hitch.

Using the same bike rack as I've always had, the rack bounces significantly less than my old hitch on my subaru. The tube is a bit longer and I think gives the rack less room to bounce up and down. This is EXTREMELY confidence inspiring with how expensive bikes are these days.

I was initially annoyed that it would be so visible but it pretty much disappears with the rest of that part of the bumper being black. I have zero complaints about this hitch.




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Lookin' good!

(four year old thread though...??)

 

Which hitch would work well on a 2011 Base Fit? I’d prefer to install it myself, if possible, but I would hesitate if cutting/scoring is involved. This would be for a bike rack, mainly.

 

Same set up I have been running for years! I know it's a huge commitment with what the Kuat costs, but I would love to have seen the white Kuat on that white car. Best racks on the planet - well done.

Stop by eTrailer.com and look at those. Most recommend Curt brand, and so do I. Sites like eTrailer will also show you the installation manual and you'll have a really good idea of what it will take to install.

 

I’ve looked at the Curt, and it does look pretty easy to install EXCEPT for the drilling and scoring. I’d really like a hitch that doesn’t require drilling. I don’t have enough confidence to start drilling my car.

 

Hello - I would like to find out about clearance and going up hills or over speed bumps; I have a 2019 Fit - do any of you with these hitches described here have ground clearance issues?

 

Why pay the big $ for some overpriced hitch rack, (that is after you paid for a hitch, and ball), or some fancy schmancy roof rack, when one can simply strap on a SARIS Bones EX to your hatch? I've got a Bones semi-permanently strapped on my '12 FIT. Four somewhat bone shaped arms serve as attachment points, and on my '12 the upper arms points of contact is the upper rear hatch glass, the lower arms contact the license plate well. 3 quick release, cam buckles/straps on each side secure the rack. I haul a very tall 24" 2008 TREK 4500 MTB strapped to the rack. I have at least one foot clearance between the bottom of the Hookworm tire and the pavement. Paid $228 for the 3 bike rack, (Amazon Warehouse deal). Every now and then I've got to tighten up the straps a tiny bit.
I've driven 95mph with the bike on rack, without any issue. The bike will shimmy some even at the maximum recommended speed of 70 mph - no big deal.
Nik

 

I've gone to using an actual trailer. This Harbor Freight special works pretty good. It's very light and it keeps gunk out of the car. Doesn't hurt gas mileage noticeably. I didn't like bike racks on the back of the car. Other than being handy, roof racks suck. They are noisy and they hurt gas mileage. A Fit isn't a "towing" vehicle, but I figure if it's light enough for me to move around by hand then it's light enough for the Fit to tow. It rides very well, even at interstate speeds. I can unhook it and haul it by hand into a walk-in campsite. It's actually very convenient.

 

i like this a lot! What hitch did you decide to use?

 

I used a Curt hitch. It was very easy to install. Took like 45 minutes total.
I had the trailer for a long time, and I wasn't using it, so I figured, "Why not?"
You want to keep it light. But it really frees up space in the car. I camp a lot. It's nice to put the bulky stuff on the trailer.
It even works good for errands and "just running down to the river" for an hour.
I can't say enough good about it.