I'm finally putting a K&N filter on my 2008 Fit Sport. I just bought the filter and figured I could DYI the retrofit with 3" drain pipe. when I got into it, it looks more complicated than I thought. Is there a thread for what I'm doing? I searched w/o success but i'm a newbie and don't know my way around.
My first problem is that I need to remove much of the air intake assembly to have room for the flex pipe to go over to the wheel well (for cold air). But there's what looks like a vacuum hose and a sensor that would be affected because it's all one piece. How much of the stock air apperatus can/do I need to remove? will it involve a hacksaw?
2nd, there doesn't seem to be enough room in the wheel well to accommodate the filter.

Also how do I find out if my Fit is 1st or 2nd generation?
I'm I asking too many questions?

 

First off, hello and welcome.

Do you have images of the K&N setup that you have or a link to it so we can see what's potentially going on?

Removing the factory air box assembly isn't too hard. For some the battery may need to loosened to shift it for more room or be removed temporarily to get the air box assembly out.

If memory serves me right there are 2, possibly 3 bolts that are 10 mm to remove plus the either coupling that tightens the air box to the throttle body which is a 5.5mm I believe (I use a 7/32nds socket usually... haha). Disconnect the MAP sensor, disconnect the PCV tube from the air box (simple pliers to squeeze the clamp and slowly work the PCV tube out) and pop off the rubber flex tube running from the fender to the air box and then the assembly should be free.

There is one at least one plastic push clip for that rubber flex tube that needs to be removed if you have to take it out as well by the way. No hacksaw required for factory box removal.

As for first or second generation... If your Fit's VIN starts with JHMGD then you have a first gen like I do (in signature). If you have JHMGE... then you have second gen.

 

thank you so much! Apparently I have a 1st gen too and it actually looks identical to yours including color and window vents, but mine still has the stock wheels.
The K&N filter I got is a universal round tapered (RU-4960XD). just the filter. No other connecting parts

 

I see. Well I just checked the part number you provided and confirmed that the filter that you have will not work at all for your Fit. Presuming that it has the factory air box assembly still.

What you will need if you want a reusable filter is produced by aFe and K&N...

aFe Pro Dry Filter (I would recommend this one. Simple to clean and no oiling required)

aFe Pro 5R Filter

K&N Drop In Filter

The later two filters must be oiled after cleaning. If they are over saturated with oil then the oil can potentially mist/coat the MAP sensor and possibly cause the PCM to kick a check engine light due to false/inaccurate readings.

You may be able to find the aFe (or K&N or another brand) filters cheaper on Amazon or Rock Auto Parts. Just do a search for the with the part number for your Fit and shop away.

 

Just my opinion, you'll get more I'm sure,,,

The MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) will not be damaged by oil its a simple diaphragm pressure gauge, they can even be used to measure the pressure of liquids.. They are in the air stream after the PCV whitch provides a constant light spray of oil mist in the intake.

MAF sensors can be fouled by oil, they are a delicate wire loop or mesh that oil will foul and change the performance/signal to the ecu.. They are always before the PCV inlet for that reason.

Foam filters are better for filtering in dirty environments, cloth filters are a minor compromise between paper and foam. When properly oiled they are not an issue, but too many folks don't read the K&N and other vendor directions and drastically over oil the filters.

In either case, there is very very little to be gained on the fit with any of them and getting a gain out of a unit not tested on a very high end dyno is a coin toss for whether you will gain any power.. I've yet to see any stock un-tuned honda engine on a engine dyno gain overall power with a generic aftermarket intake, what they do is peak the power so at one RPM they shine and you lose the power somewhere else. Odds are the best average gain is the stock airbox with a nice stock replacement. (ITG) if one were available. Look at the stock one,,, does it look like a piece that was thrown together with hardware store parts? A common affect from most aftermarket units is they flatten the lead RPM so that when they finally have an affect your going up a much steeper curve which makes the car feel faster...

YMMV

 

Does anybody have any experience with this AEM 28-20422 oil-free air filter? Is it better than aFe POWER 31-10200?
The AEM is cheaper by $25 than the aFe.

https://www.aemintakes.com/search/pr...?prod=28-20422

aFe POWER 31-10200 Magnum FLOW Pro DRY S Air Filter | aFe POWER

Thanks.

 

just save your money and get a fram filter or watever that is cheaper on amazon.

 

After cleaning the K&N in our Fit numerous times, it's not coming as clean as I would like anymore. Was searching for a cheap alternative and found this...


It's almost the same price as a cheap paper element, but is re-usable. The overall quality looks equal to our K&N which is to say pretty good! A lot of the paper ones have poor quality foam surrounds. This one is good quality rubber with a nice seal. Just giving another option.

AFAIK, no aftermarket intakes offer any real power gains, so might as well go with a drop in filter of decent quality.

 

Does this filter fit 2011 Fit? It says on the Amazon website that it doesn't fit.

 

Sorry utsug, I thought they would have a filter for your application, but I don't see one either.