Projects for 2013!
I hope with the cam gear I will finally hit 250 whp or close. I have kind of played around in my head how cool it would be to be 300 whp NA but i will most likely need to change to E85 and maybe some other mods. I will see where I am at and go from there
I have the swifts, progress rsb, slipstreams, DW 205s and that's it for now. Wondering if some bracing would do anything. I've heard completely polar opposite reviews on some of those. Nobody can seem to give me a straight answer on what areas need the most bracing, who have experience with putting these little bars on the bottoms of late-model chassis'. I am playing armchair engineer and trying to use logic, but not sure if I'm getting anywhere with confirming my ideas.
For example, a c-pillar bar seems like a great idea right now, because things are starting to creak back there when I torque the chassis, but is that really going to translate into a more effective suspension compared to something that bolts right next to the articulating points that move, and do stuff? Will that even help, though...2013 baby. Shit should be strong by now when it comes to a chassis!
For example, a c-pillar bar seems like a great idea right now, because things are starting to creak back there when I torque the chassis, but is that really going to translate into a more effective suspension compared to something that bolts right next to the articulating points that move, and do stuff? Will that even help, though...2013 baby. Shit should be strong by now when it comes to a chassis!
Sounds like a great start! Honestly, at least upgrading the rear's to the Redshift Koni's would be far more noticeable than bracing. Several GE's in our club have under bracing. The front tie/ladder bar's are your best bet for a noticeable improvement. The forces on your chassis required to gain real benefit from a c pillar bar are best not experience on public roads Makes a great hanger for dry cleaning though 
I'm looking forward to seeing more of that!
Makes a great hanger for dry cleaning though I'm looking forward to seeing more of that!
Haha! That's what I hear. Coat rack!
Thanks a lot for the input. I've been telling folks that a rear shock replacement would do wonders, then I found out that some Konis would actually fit via Redshift! Definitely on the list. If I go over a speed bump, the front dampens well with one rebound, and the rear bounces. I don't need anymore info than that! I know it will make a big difference. The rear feels a little disconnected from the rest of the car, which I'm used to on FWDs with a trailing link, but it sure would be nice to have everything feel solid. With the RSB, it powers out of turns in a manner more similar to a rwd car. I've been having a lot of fun.
Thanks again for some real-world knowledge based on experience from others who actually drive their cars hard. Rare!
Thanks a lot for the input. I've been telling folks that a rear shock replacement would do wonders, then I found out that some Konis would actually fit via Redshift! Definitely on the list. If I go over a speed bump, the front dampens well with one rebound, and the rear bounces. I don't need anymore info than that! I know it will make a big difference. The rear feels a little disconnected from the rest of the car, which I'm used to on FWDs with a trailing link, but it sure would be nice to have everything feel solid. With the RSB, it powers out of turns in a manner more similar to a rwd car. I've been having a lot of fun.
Thanks again for some real-world knowledge based on experience from others who actually drive their cars hard. Rare!
Truss up the underside, even the mustache bars in the back and it makes a difference that you can feel. The stuff up top would require a jungle gym to join together in a meaningful fashion and realistically I personally do not need it for my purposes, it would make for too much inconvenience.
I forgot to add my plan for this year is to finally get the RSX cam gear installed and re-tuned. Before I do that though I want to redo my fuel setup. I am replacing the fuel rail, and fuel line and adding a fuel PSI gauge.
I will also change my intake manifold for the RBC or the skunk one? The Skunk2 is not my first choice but it is a little bit shorter then the RBC and should be easier to fit in the car.
Then there are some other things under the hood I might want to change/clean up
I will also change my intake manifold for the RBC or the skunk one? The Skunk2 is not my first choice but it is a little bit shorter then the RBC and should be easier to fit in the car.
Then there are some other things under the hood I might want to change/clean up
You might need a cam and springs/retainers along with that cam gear and manifold to make 250whp NA, and it will be a requirement for 300whp NA.
A big cam that doesn't fall off till a bit north of 9k is likely in order. something like a 292* duration 112-114* LSA and .450" lift.
Torque is in short supply, and its what you need to make the HP figure. So pick something that sustains torque higher up in the rev-range and the engine speed will convert that small torque figure in to a big power number.
300whp @ 9250rpm only needs about 170wtq. Which is easily do-able if you have some E85 to run a real aggressive timing/fueling scheme on.
Don't be afraid to wind it out! It's where the power is on these motors and if you have a good oil in her she'll last for years.
Can't wait to see the dyno graph/video on some real boost! 
That's a rough break man, sorry to hear it. 
I've got a bunch of fun failure pics..
Ooops.
Too much power:
lol
Ooops.
Too much power:
lol
A fuel pressure gauge is a great diagnostic tool, even on an NA car. Why do you need to replace the rail and lines?
You might need a cam and springs/retainers along with that cam gear and manifold to make 250whp NA, and it will be a requirement for 300whp NA.
A big cam that doesn't fall off till a bit north of 9k is likely in order. something like a 292* duration 112-114* LSA and .450" lift.
Torque is in short supply, and its what you need to make the HP figure. So pick something that sustains torque higher up in the rev-range and the engine speed will convert that small torque figure in to a big power number.
300whp @ 9250rpm only needs about 170wtq. Which is easily do-able if you have some E85 to run a real aggressive timing/fueling scheme on.
Don't be afraid to wind it out! It's where the power is on these motors and if you have a good oil in her she'll last for years.
You might need a cam and springs/retainers along with that cam gear and manifold to make 250whp NA, and it will be a requirement for 300whp NA.
A big cam that doesn't fall off till a bit north of 9k is likely in order. something like a 292* duration 112-114* LSA and .450" lift.
Torque is in short supply, and its what you need to make the HP figure. So pick something that sustains torque higher up in the rev-range and the engine speed will convert that small torque figure in to a big power number.
300whp @ 9250rpm only needs about 170wtq. Which is easily do-able if you have some E85 to run a real aggressive timing/fueling scheme on.
Don't be afraid to wind it out! It's where the power is on these motors and if you have a good oil in her she'll last for years.
I actually do have cams, IPS KME to be exact I also have skunk2 springs and retainers. The TSX intake cam gear is holding the cams back, from what I understand. The RSX-S intake cam gear will allow the motor to do its 50 degrees of adjustments appose to only 25 degrees
The car right now makes 200whp (well 198whp technically, but what is 2whp) and 180qt. I think with the cam gear and a better flowing intake manifold the car should hit 250whp.
See, I wouldn't lie to you guys.
Truss up the underside, even the mustache bars in the back and it makes a difference that you can feel. The stuff up top would require a jungle gym to join together in a meaningful fashion and realistically I personally do not need it for my purposes, it would make for too much inconvenience.
Truss up the underside, even the mustache bars in the back and it makes a difference that you can feel. The stuff up top would require a jungle gym to join together in a meaningful fashion and realistically I personally do not need it for my purposes, it would make for too much inconvenience.
I certainly want to see what else I can stiffen up... I am limited though (as always) class rules wise...
If I have a chance I'll take a picture when I get home from boxing, provided I'm not too stiff to lean under the car.
They are just ahead of the front wheel wells and span a gap in a valley in the unibody.
I have some of the standard stuff, including a brace between the front control arm mounts.. and some I am still in the design phase for to help control any flex/shift in the front of the car under a potential 300lb-ft at the wheels when all is said and done.
They are just ahead of the front wheel wells and span a gap in a valley in the unibody.
I have some of the standard stuff, including a brace between the front control arm mounts.. and some I am still in the design phase for to help control any flex/shift in the front of the car under a potential 300lb-ft at the wheels when all is said and done.
the fuel rail and lines are just cosmetic. The fuel rail I am running right now is tectonically for a B series motor. The shop just made a custom bracket for it and mounted it up. I am picking up the Hybrid Racing fuel rail so it will be slimer and then I will run the fuel line under and mount it from the bottom for a tucked look
I actually do have cams, IPS KME to be exact I also have skunk2 springs and retainers. The TSX intake cam gear is holding the cams back, from what I understand. The RSX-S intake cam gear will allow the motor to do its 50 degrees of adjustments appose to only 25 degrees
The car right now makes 200whp (well 198whp technically, but what is 2whp) and 180qt. I think with the cam gear and a better flowing intake manifold the car should hit 250whp.
I actually do have cams, IPS KME to be exact I also have skunk2 springs and retainers. The TSX intake cam gear is holding the cams back, from what I understand. The RSX-S intake cam gear will allow the motor to do its 50 degrees of adjustments appose to only 25 degrees
The car right now makes 200whp (well 198whp technically, but what is 2whp) and 180qt. I think with the cam gear and a better flowing intake manifold the car should hit 250whp.
I think the combo you have now has more in it.. this should give you some margin to work with!
the fuel rail and lines are just cosmetic. The fuel rail I am running right now is tectonically for a B series motor. The shop just made a custom bracket for it and mounted it up. I am picking up the Hybrid Racing fuel rail so it will be slimer and then I will run the fuel line under and mount it from the bottom for a tucked look
I actually do have cams, IPS KME to be exact I also have skunk2 springs and retainers. The TSX intake cam gear is holding the cams back, from what I understand. The RSX-S intake cam gear will allow the motor to do its 50 degrees of adjustments appose to only 25 degrees
The car right now makes 200whp (well 198whp technically, but what is 2whp) and 180qt. I think with the cam gear and a better flowing intake manifold the car should hit 250whp.
I actually do have cams, IPS KME to be exact I also have skunk2 springs and retainers. The TSX intake cam gear is holding the cams back, from what I understand. The RSX-S intake cam gear will allow the motor to do its 50 degrees of adjustments appose to only 25 degrees
The car right now makes 200whp (well 198whp technically, but what is 2whp) and 180qt. I think with the cam gear and a better flowing intake manifold the car should hit 250whp.
CAMSHAFTS Billet Stage 4 - K20A.org .:. The K Series Source . Honda / Acura K20a k24a Engine Forum
Now THAT is a dangerous forum to browse!
If I have a chance I'll take a picture when I get home from boxing, provided I'm not too stiff to lean under the car.
They are just ahead of the front wheel wells and span a gap in a valley in the unibody.
I have some of the standard stuff, including a brace between the front control arm mounts.. and some I am still in the design phase for to help control any flex/shift in the front of the car under a potential 300lb-ft at the wheels when all is said and done.
They are just ahead of the front wheel wells and span a gap in a valley in the unibody.
I have some of the standard stuff, including a brace between the front control arm mounts.. and some I am still in the design phase for to help control any flex/shift in the front of the car under a potential 300lb-ft at the wheels when all is said and done.
I only have the rear side and under tie that came from the tiger tuning GB a bit ago:
That should have said "rear wheel wells" and those are the ones, I'm looking to make some more for the back too.
This part has an ... interesting history to say the least. It has been through the hands of several folks on the forums, and may have actually been a prototype...
It will still require an EGR port to be cut into it though, hence the "work in progress" part
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