2000Accord-EX-56K-5Spd: I am planning to do the Coolant Flush, as
described in the owner's manual. I have 2 questions:

Where can I buy the torque wrench, which sets pressure for Drain Plug,
and the Engine Block Nut. Can someone suggest me what to buy and where,
please.

I am still looking hard, but could not locate the Engine Block Nut yet.

Thanks
Shanks

 

SadaYama wrote:
> 2000Accord-EX-56K-5Spd: I am planning to do the Coolant Flush, as
> described in the owner's manual. I have 2 questions:
>
> Where can I buy the torque wrench, which sets pressure for Drain Plug,
> and the Engine Block Nut. Can someone suggest me what to buy and where,
> please.
>
> I am still looking hard, but could not locate the Engine Block Nut yet.
>
> Thanks
> Shanks
>
-------------------
Don't put any tap water (a.k.a. Hondacide) in your cooling system,
except maybe for flushing purposes.

'Curly'

 

I understand that the Radiator draining, Engine block nut, is next to
Oil Filter. Can someone, please tell me, whether it is accessible from
driver's side or passengers side? Also, if I jackup on that side, can I
reach the nut, easily.

Thanks.

 

Don't bother with the block drain on newer models. I hear it's a real
PITA to reach. A (possibly) easier solution that shouldn't require
getting under the
car:

1) Drain radiator with heater on full-open
2) D/c upper radiator hose from cylinder head & remove and replace the
thermostat (with honda OEM).
3) D/c lower radiator hose from radiator side, and aim it into your
drain pan. This
should drain 85% of the block.
4) Stick garden hose into cylinder head where termostat was removed and
blast it until the lower-rad hose runs clear (shouldn't take much at
all.
5) Wait for draining to finish, reconnect all hoses, replace
thermostat, etc.. and fill system with about 55% coolant 45% water to
make up for whatever
water was residual in the block after flushing.

PS: Many people swear against tap water, but YMMV. My opinion is that
if you use a good silicate free coolant, then this shouldn't be a big
issue assuming you flush every few years. I guess you should use your
best judgement since you know your local water better.

 

Is this a 4 cyl or 6? The bolt is hopeless on the 4, forget about it.

My 2000 TL (3.2 V6) actually has a block drain that looks more like a
bleeder and is actually usable. Its not torqued off the map and is
relatively easy to get to (though only from underneath on the passenger
side (assuming US car)). If you have the 6, do a little more homework and
see if it has the usable drain. If you have it, it is definitely easier
than removing hoses, etc.

"SadaYama" <gireesham@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1112577181.182857.301210@f14g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
>I understand that the Radiator draining, Engine block nut, is next to
> Oil Filter. Can someone, please tell me, whether it is accessible from
> driver's side or passengers side? Also, if I jackup on that side, can I
> reach the nut, easily.
>
> Thanks.
>

 

>>> Is this a 4 cyl or 6? The bolt is hopeless on the 4, forget about
it.

2000 Accord-EX-56K-5Spd- 4Cyl. The procedure in the book talks about,
draining the radiator first, and draining the engine block next. After
tightening both, it suggests refill with a bleeding nut on the top of
the engine.

 

I wouldn't bother with the block drain, but make sure you use Honda
anti-freeze so it mixes properly with the original stuff remaining in the
block. Also don't forget to follow the procedure to make sure the valve to
the heater core is open when you drain so the fluid in there also drains.

in any event, you need to use the bleeder on top when you refill, or it will
trap an air bubble at that spot and fry whatever switch or sensor happens to
be nearby.


"SadaYama" <gireesham@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1112826399.211948.290380@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com...
>>>> Is this a 4 cyl or 6? The bolt is hopeless on the 4, forget about
> it.
>
> 2000 Accord-EX-56K-5Spd- 4Cyl. The procedure in the book talks about,
> draining the radiator first, and draining the engine block next. After
> tightening both, it suggests refill with a bleeding nut on the top of
> the engine.
>