BEEN 5 weeks now.. Anyone out there have any more ideas on what's causing
this.. See aug 25th post for details on this still standing prob. Is there
a HOTLINE somewhere in the transmission world where i may get some ideas..
Access to the auto for towing is awkward since the car can only be reached
from the rear and front wheels aren't accomodating at present..
thx, jim
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 

"bottledoctor" <bottledoctor@netscape.com> wrote in message news:df587371750cc5a3992128db21c9bbba@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...

> BEEN 5 weeks now.. Anyone out there have any more ideas on what's causing
> this.. See aug 25th post for details on this still standing prob. Is there
> a HOTLINE somewhere in the transmission world where i may get some ideas..
> Access to the auto for towing is awkward since the car can only be reached
> from the rear and front wheels aren't accomodating at present..
> thx, jim

If you really want to move it, simply stick a crowbar between the
transmission and the CV joint and give it a push just to dislodge the
axel. Once the car moves you don't have to do it to the other side.

And remember to post what you have disassembled so far, so we can help.

Aug 25th post:
http://tinyurl.com/9kt84

 

Of concern first is getting to the trans end of the shift cable.. This is
done by removing the protection bar under the oil pan, 7 bolts i do
believe.. THEN there is access to the dust/dirt protection cover, a thin
steel shield that covers
the area where the shift cable attaches to the transmission control
lever.. Once you can SEE the end of the shift cable that attaches to the
transmission it can easily be removed from the trans ctl lever by removing
a cotter pin .. Other end of shift cable is simple enough to remove,
without instructions here, after the shift console cover is removed
between the 2 front seats.. NOW, before doing ANY of the above you need to
read PART 1 of this fix.. It will help in verifying that your shift cable
IS WITH LITTLE DOUBT the cause for not being able to get trans out of
park.. MY 2 month ordeal with this problem was caused by not having the
info written above.. Hind sight is ALWAYS clearer once job is done.. I
have the genuine accord shop manual for this car but what i've noted above
is NOT presented anywhere in the manual in this detail.. I hope this saves
SOMEONE a little time in diagnosing a seized up shift cable... Part 1 will
pretty much verify whether you need to get
under the car or not..

 

Of concern first is getting to the trans end of the shift cable.. This is
done by removing the protection bar under the oil pan, 7 bolts i do
believe.. THEN there is access to the dust/dirt protection cover, a thin
steel shield that covers
the area where the shift cable attaches to the transmission control
lever.. Once you can SEE the end of the shift cable that attaches to the
transmission it can easily be removed from the trans ctl lever by
removing
a cotter pin .. Other end of shift cable is simple enough to remove,
without instructions here, after the shift console cover is removed
between the 2 front seats.. NOW, before doing ANY of the above you need
to
read PART 1 of this fix.. It will help in verifying that your shift
cable
IS WITH LITTLE DOUBT the cause for not being able to get trans out of
park.. MY 2 month ordeal with this problem was caused by not having the
info written above.. Hind sight is ALWAYS clearer once job is done.. I
have the genuine accord shop manual for this car but what i've noted
above
is NOT presented anywhere in the manual in this detail.. I hope this
saves
SOMEONE a little time in diagnosing a seized up shift cable... Part 1
will
pretty much verify whether you need to get
under the car or not.. I'LL post part 1 in a day or so..... hope this
helps........jim

 

ALL OF THE BELOW ACTIVITIES ARE TO BE DONE WITHOUT ENGINE RUNNING!!!
1 Early diagnostic method to see if the shift cable ITSELF is locked up or
binding in its sleeve is as follows:: Remove the forward most portion of
the shift console cover.. This exposes the portion of the shift cable that
hooks to the shifter arm.. Remove the LOCK (RETAINER) PIN that attaches the
shift cable to the shifter arm.
Allow the portion going to the shift arm to drop out the way. The eye in
the shift cable is now exposed. LEAVING ENGINE OFF, YOU SHOULD NOW BE ABLE
TO MOVE SHIFTER ARM THRU ALL POSITIONS,INCLUDING 'PARK'.. If you can't,
something is locked up in your shifter arm mechanism itself.. Assuming you
can make normal movements with the shifter arm now, do the following:
Insert a small screwdriver in the exposed eye of the shift cable.. YOU
SHOULD be able to easily turn it 90 degrees or so & when released it
should go back to its normal position.. This verifies that the cable is
free & OK on the shift console end.. If it doesn't spring back then the
shift cable is frozen up & needs to be replaced.. "MINE WAS LOCKED UP
SOLID & IT HAPPENED OVER 1 NIGHT".. You might want to check the shift
cable adjustment, if you have a service manual with details on doing this,
before you close up the console cover..Any questions on just this prob get
to me w/email bottledoctor(at)netscape.com...... hope this helps
someone!!! jim