Originally Posted by aero

After 19,000 threads about how to do this, I decided there was a need for one of these. I thought there was one.. but I dunno. Motion to sticky :p... mods if you wanna change the thread title to "how to .... " that would be kew.. i forgot to add that.

1. If your check engine light is on, start by going to your passenger side kickpanel.
There should be a blue connector w/2 wires to it like the one pictured below.


Put a paper clip, wire, connector in it to connect the two prongs.

2. Put the key in the ignition, and turn the key 2 clicks to the acc on, where all the lights light up on the dash.

3. You will now watch how many times the CEL light blinks.

a long blink = 10
a short blink = 1
It will repeat after all the codes are done.

4. Compare to this list to see what the problem is:

1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor low input
92 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow



Resetting ECU

1. Disconnect Negative battery terminal (never only take off the positive, cuz it can kill the battery when it grounds all the power out, if left for a while)

2. Look in the Underhood fuse box, find the "Hazard" Fuse. Pull it out.

3. Let the car sit for 10-15 minutes

4. Reattach neg battery terminal and put fuse back in

5. Restart car w/nothing on (radio, lights, a/c) and just let it run for a few minutes.

6. Turn off, and then it should be good to go.

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TCU Error codes are indicated by the "S" light on 90-91 models, and the "D4" light on 92-93 models. The codes can be read in the same way, with paperclip method, as the ECU codes, by counting the flashes of these lights.
The error codes are as follows:

0-Transmission control unit (TCU) faulty.
1-Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
2-Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
3-Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted.
4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer.
5-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted.
6-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open.
7-Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
8-Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
9-Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted.
10-Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted.
11-Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted.
12-(No code 12 used)
13-Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted.
14-Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted.
15-Kick down switch circuit shorted.

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ABS Error codes

Originally Posted by evil_demon_01

This thread is for all the my car just died / doesn't start problems.

An engine needs 3 basics things to run - Fuel, spark and compression.
Timing is also a factor, but incorrect timing can still result in a running engine (although more than likely it will run rough) if far enough out it will not run at all.

To check for fuel:
Fit a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure.
Pressure should be:
35-41psi with the engine idling, and the vacuum hose of the fuel regulator disconnected
29-35psi with the engine idling, and the vacuum hose of the fuel regulator connected

If you don't have access to a fuel pressure gauge, crack off the 10mm bolt on the fuel feed line, if fuel is coming out then you have fuel at the injectors inlet.

NOTE - This does not necessarily mean the injectors are firing.
To check if the injectors are working, you can listen to the solenoids inside them by holding a screwdriver on them and listening for the clicking sound.


To check for spark:
Remove the plug leads, and put an old (but working) sparkplug into the lead, then ground the tip of the sparkplug on a suitable ground.
Have a friend crank the engine while you watch the sparkplug.
If you see a spark jumping the gap, you have spark.
If not, either the sparkplug isn't grounded correctly, or there is a problem in the ignition circuit.


To check for compression:
Get a compression gauge, and fit it into each sparkplug hole one by one.
Wind the engine over for 6-8 compressions and take the reading.

Compression for F20/F22 should be:

Nominal -178psi
Minimum - 135psi
Maximum variation between cylinders - 28psi


To check Static timing:
Remove rocker cover and top timing belt cover.
Set the crank at TDC (white pointer on the flywheel)
If the static timing is correct, the cam pulley should have the arrow pointing up, and the two marks 90 degrees to the left and right of the "Arrow/UP" should line up with the head.

My car doesnt crank:
- Check the Battery
- With ignition at crank position, you should be getting source voltage at the one wire circuit on the starter,
- Check for source voltage at the positive post on the starter

If you have voltages at both and still doesnt do anything, listen for a click. no click? gently tap the solenoid (small cylinder)

Nothing? Replace the starter.

If the starter sounds like it wants to go but doesn't
- Check connections
- Recheck battery
- Check for a locked up motor

If the starter spins but makes a grinding noise
- Check flywheel/flexplate ring gear for wear
- Check starter drive gear for wear.

No fuel
-check if there's actually fuel in it
-check for pinched line or clogged filter
-check for fuel pump buzz at key up
-operation of main relay
-incorrectly hooked up fuel gauge. i use the OTC fuel gauge setup with adapter 68.

No spark
-check at coil, if good at coil replace cap and rotor.
-test light on positive and with cap off for internal coil, place on negative end of coil. Have someone turn the engine over, the test light should blink rapidly. if no blink or intermittent...check ignitor, positive end of coil for battery source and signal from ecu.
-if no power at coil + which is the blk/yellow wire, check ignition switch for power and main relay