I have never read or see anything about high fuel pressure (common complaints are low pressure on high mileage cars with history of nearly empty tank or contaminated gas.
would you be able to disconnect electrical connector Air fuel ratio sensor (one in exhaust manifold and check the fuel trims without it (it will set few codes, you may erase them after test) I am also suspecting aftermarket sensor which is improperly reporting mixture (a close up picture will be great).
Next step is to measure injector duration at certain condition and compare it to known good car (most of the forum users have no idea I am talking about
Again, lube from an air cleaner may damage an AFR sensor and alter its reading

 

Yeah, the plugs looked good, perhaps even a but lean! I'd bet running a trim bit leaner the car would make better power (it sure feels peppy to me). I'll get pictures tomorrow.

I can't remember if I mentioned, but the previous owner told me that the guy before him gutted the cat. I noticed that the downstream o2 sensor has a spacer installed so it doesn't throw a cat code. After hitting the road today I wondered if maybe they tampered with the upstream one too, not knowing what they were doing.

As far as fuel pressure goes, it was just a test that would give me one more confirmed reading. I think the fsm suggested confirming fuel pressure on their p0172 diagnosis procedure.

I snapped some pictures of my live stream data when I got home today. Nothing stood way out, but I'm a upper novice at best...

 

OK, O2 sensor 2 "downstream" is indicating normal mixture .82V (voltage from 0 to .5-- rich and 1 v and above--lean) even with gutted cat the downstream sensor can measure residual oxygen in the exhaust.
Also the a/f EQ ratio commanded is 0.98 (almost 1.0) while actual ratio is 0.9 (rich) this makes no sense to me
if computer makes correction to remove fuel the commanded ratio will be 1.1 (computer cutting fuel) and actual ratio should be close to 1.0
In severe case with black smoke and popping exhaust the actual reading will be less than one and commanded ratio will be far higher than 1 (runs rich despite fuel cut)
what is the commanded EQ ratio with engine off?? (my car reads 2.0)
So I will look for AFR sensor (it could be contaminated and read rich when it should read normal)
The catalyst is dead, it should be at higher temperature like 700F

 

So, the cat was gutted, but they installed a spacer so that the o2 sensor gets a weaker signal. So that a cat code won't get thrown. That said, I still need to get a visual on the front one to make sure they didnt donit there too. I did one of those on my wife's outback becuase they wete notorious for sending off cat cells even when the cat was working fine.

Here is what I got with the engine off after a very short drive.

 

O2 sensor 2 voltage is correct
EQ ratio (11) is 1.999 which is correct.
a spacer is installed to minimize O2 fluctuations in ehxaust stream near secondary O2 sensor
perhaps AFR sensor may need to be looked at

 

on my 07:
1 New Plugs
2. New Coil packs
3. Valve adjust
4. can of seafoam in two gas tanks in a row.
5. Misfire was gone..
I have a Bosche Mobile scan (70 bucks at Oreillys on sale) and it resets the codes and lets me build a little dashboard with the app.. Yea there are cheaper options but I'm lazy..

 

The mobile version of this forum is weird. I accidentally posted my reply on someone else's thread.

here-

Well, if I add a valve adjustment to my list, that's pretty much what I am doing. I added seafoam to the gas and oil. Doing an oil change soon. With my commute being about a quarter mile, it'll take a while to get through my tank of gas.... i really do live my life a quarter mile at a time...

I checked the front o2 and there is no spacer. I will pull it off and inspect it.

I also need to find a better way to fasten my k&n filter on. It's just a zip tie. A regular hose clamp wont work the way they did it.

Also, anyone know what to call the little removable panel just under the parking break handle? Mine is missing and I'd love to find one.

And then keys... I just found out how expensive the keys are for the 07. What a pain! This was after spending $80, only to find out that the keys I bought did not have the right chip. I didn't read the fine print. Even though it said it fit a 2007. Jist not the H code keys. I guess I'm stuck with the dealer.

 

I broke my and found one on the junk yard. The new one is 83442-SAA-003Z (LID, HAND BRAKE COVER) is about $4 from the dealership.
If you use add-on theft device you may pull the chip from the key and attach it under steering column cover. In this case you will be able to use any key which will unlock the ignition lock cylinder. I never tried this yet on my car, but according to schematics hot wiring the fuel pump may bypass immobilizer (unless it disables injector function in PCM)

 

Here are the old plugs. They look good to me. Definitely not rich... but my car smells a bit rich.

 

And the o2 sensor-


looks ok to me???

 

Only thing that matters on the O2 is the signal, how it looks has little to do with how its working.. Same with Plugs, there is so much specialty chemistry in fuel these days that color has little to do with how they are running.

The seafoam cleans everything for the injector to the tailpipe. Even get carbon off the pistons, if you watch with the seafoam the cat temp goes up like 200 degrees at freeway cruise (When you have a cat) and the O2 sensors get cleaner.. I've used it in boats/racecars/street cars for years so I'm comfortable with it doing what I want. Tehran is my go-to if I can't get sea foam..

 

I could be wrong but the AFR sensor seems to me a little different from original one. (Holes too big). Is there any model or part number information available on the sensor's body?

 

i wish I had looked while I was down there! I'll try to check.

Here are my recent data stream results are revving it at 3k for a while to really warm it up.

what about a stuck open evap purge valve?

 

1) the cat seems not to be gutted (it is at 900 F) so it is reacting; the downstream voltage is above .5 volt (normal)
Again the EQ ratio commanded normal and reads rich
For evap control test disconnect the hose from short metal pipe on throttle body and cap this pipe. If your trims return to normal then you could have high evap flow at idle (but it looks normal to me (there could be some vacuum in the tank when fuel level drops or air inside cools down

 

yeah, you're right about the cat. I just took the guys word for it. And wasnt paying much attention.

The service manual states to check fuel pressure first. I still haven't been able to connect in. My Lisle set surprisingly doesnt have the 1/4 connectors needed.

I'll try the evap cannister test.

 

What about the valves? Exhaust valves too tight maybe? I may dive in and try those tonight...

 

Tight valves will cause engine stalling when releasing the clutch after selecting gear (like attempting to move with parking brake set on) with engine cold.
Also large valve overlap from tight valves will cause MAP reading to be much higher at idle (40 kPa instead of 28 kPa)

 

Yeah, that's the thing, my performance is great. No complaints there...

 

Ok, unplugged the evap purge line (i think, the little 90 degree one on top of the throttle body) and it did nothing to fuel trims.

My check engine light came on again. This time I got picture of the freeze cells. Also, when it hit, I had a definite misfire. No code though. Driving 20mph, 10-15% throttle, light load, like up a slight incline. You could feel the studders as it missed.

I'm half a tank down with 144 miles on this thank. Though I do have a lot of idling time from diagnosing.

thoughts on egr? I have no clue what regular operating data looks like.


P0172 freeze cell-

 

Stuck open EGR will cause power loss and misfire on idle as well as higher than normal MAP reading.
I am suspecting AFR sensor shifted rich (although in many cases it shifts lean).