CONGRATS TO ME FOR 500th POST on this "copy and paste" expert forum!
As my car approached the average failure mileage for 3rd gear pressure switch I decided to replace it before it sets the code (Acurazine community members do this very often)



I want to share some useful tips for those who would like to do the swap without having disaster
-- Honda superseded the part number ending with -013 with the part ending with -004 (same as 2nd gear pressure switch). These switches are operating at 27 psi (lowest pressure among all Honda cars); I looked on the bulletins from 2 dealerships to verify that



L to R: Special socket, new -004 switch and old -003 switch

-- On the left you will see a special 50 mm long 7/8" socket I made, otherwise the small torque wrench may bump into the transmission housing;
-- I trimmed locking tooth on a new switch, so I would not have to push hard on the fragile connector's tab to unplug it in the future
-- I used amputated 7/8" lifesaver wrench that removes O2 sensors, to break loose the old switch; the gasket was stuck to the housing and required some persuasion from small blunt screwdriver to be dislodged



-- I jacked up driver's side of the car and used one jack stand to get access;
-- I put lint free shop towel on the engine undercover to catch few drops of fluid from the switch port (less than 1/2 teaspoon came out)
-- The new sealing washer goes with flat side toward aluminum housing and rounded side toward switch
-- I used small inch-pound torque wrench from Autozone, set to 155...168 inch-pounds, to tighten the switch
-- Upon drive test I noticed significant improvement of 3rd and 5th gear shift feel/quality;
I plan to change 2nd gear pressure switch as well soon.
Notes:
I changed ATF 1.5 years (11000 miles) ago;
I ordered switch from dealer's E-store with pick-up option which was the best deal
Autozone sells aftermarket copy of -013 yellow switch (Rostra brand) for higher price
The -003 yellow switch has a vent hole on the back, which IN THEORY may allow some moisture in (although the switch connector has a weather seal)
Will post more pics doing the second switch!

 

Good write-up. May I ask what the "average failure mileage" is? I'm at 179400 miles now, and shifting isn't really the best. ATF was changed at 169000 miles. So 10,000 miles ago, and I know that isn't the issue. I believe the transmission is healthy though, just some rough shifts once in a while.

 

Those who experienced 3rd switch failure with code and flashing D had around 70,000 miles.
Acurazine forum users (those who own 03-05 V-6 model years) are changing switches at 50,000 miles. Marginal switch causes late or jerky shifts to 3rd and to 5th perhaps due to increased contact resistance and arching before contact is made. No one reported (to the best of my knowledge) transmission fluid leaking out of the connector side of the switch (-003 and possible -013 part numbers have small hole about 1/13" diameter on connector side), so the Mylar membrane or rubber O-ring are not failing.
This is theory)
Some engine hiccups cause rough shifts too.
If you would like to have some fun, I would suggest cleaning the pressure control solenoid filter tubes, as shown at or (requites O-rings and paper gaskets; gaskets often break); also you may want to change in-line filter (my relatives' 07 CRV with 170,000 has original filter, but nothing lasts forever. I will change my at 90,000 fluid change
Gaskets and O-rings are not expensive.
I took solenoids off from one Fit I found on the junk yard (mileage less than 100,000), the solenoid tube filters were clean.
If above procedure will not help, than change switches (these will run about 55 each with washer)

 

New switch installed-top view