Dies when cold
#1
Dies when cold
Hello,
A new problem just cropped in the last couple of weeks: My 2008 Fit Sport wants to die when the engine is cold. Starts/idles ok, but will die when I press the clutch after moving down the road until the engine warms up. Runs fine after that. Does not idle quite as smooth as it used to when cold. Car has 156k on it. Any suggestions will be appreciated!
Thanks!
A new problem just cropped in the last couple of weeks: My 2008 Fit Sport wants to die when the engine is cold. Starts/idles ok, but will die when I press the clutch after moving down the road until the engine warms up. Runs fine after that. Does not idle quite as smooth as it used to when cold. Car has 156k on it. Any suggestions will be appreciated!
Thanks!
#2
Hello,
A new problem just cropped in the last couple of weeks: My 2008 Fit Sport wants to die when the engine is cold. Starts/idles ok, but will die when I press the clutch after moving down the road until the engine warms up. Runs fine after that. Does not idle quite as smooth as it used to when cold. Car has 156k on it. Any suggestions will be appreciated!
Thanks!
A new problem just cropped in the last couple of weeks: My 2008 Fit Sport wants to die when the engine is cold. Starts/idles ok, but will die when I press the clutch after moving down the road until the engine warms up. Runs fine after that. Does not idle quite as smooth as it used to when cold. Car has 156k on it. Any suggestions will be appreciated!
Thanks!
#3
Most likely related to the MAF. 1) When you start it cold where does it idle? 2) After it warms up where and how doe it idle?
Plugs might also need changing at that mileage. Injectors could be fouled. Bad fuel could have done it. 156K miles clouds the issues and increases the things that might be wrong.
Another thing to check is the Engine Coolant Sensor. If it's malfunctioning it will mess with the Air/Fuel mix.
No CheckEnigineLight lit up? Checking for 'historic' codes might tell the story. CEL will trip w/ current codes but intermittent codes remain in history. A good diagnostic is always better than throwing parts at unknown problems.
Plugs might also need changing at that mileage. Injectors could be fouled. Bad fuel could have done it. 156K miles clouds the issues and increases the things that might be wrong.
Another thing to check is the Engine Coolant Sensor. If it's malfunctioning it will mess with the Air/Fuel mix.
No CheckEnigineLight lit up? Checking for 'historic' codes might tell the story. CEL will trip w/ current codes but intermittent codes remain in history. A good diagnostic is always better than throwing parts at unknown problems.
#4
Most likely related to the MAF. 1) When you start it cold where does it idle? 2) After it warms up where and how doe it idle?
Plugs might also need changing at that mileage. Injectors could be fouled. Bad fuel could have done it. 156K miles clouds the issues and increases the things that might be wrong.
Another thing to check is the Engine Coolant Sensor. If it's malfunctioning it will mess with the Air/Fuel mix.
No CheckEnigineLight lit up? Checking for 'historic' codes might tell the story. CEL will trip w/ current codes but intermittent codes remain in history. A good diagnostic is always better than throwing parts at unknown problems.
Plugs might also need changing at that mileage. Injectors could be fouled. Bad fuel could have done it. 156K miles clouds the issues and increases the things that might be wrong.
Another thing to check is the Engine Coolant Sensor. If it's malfunctioning it will mess with the Air/Fuel mix.
No CheckEnigineLight lit up? Checking for 'historic' codes might tell the story. CEL will trip w/ current codes but intermittent codes remain in history. A good diagnostic is always better than throwing parts at unknown problems.
#5
I only saw your post after I hit post on mine. Bad fuel could very well be part of it and the injectors certainly would benefit with the HEET as well. In the old days it was always the coil/points if an engine had rough cold starts and ran better when warmed up.
Sleep is good. I get 8hrs every day, just never know which hours it'll be...
Sleep is good. I get 8hrs every day, just never know which hours it'll be...
#6
Dies when cold
Thanks to you all for the helpful responses. I am trying a little Heet first. Also looking for a cheaper alternative to Autozone for coils-$129 ea is a bit steep for my budget. Can someone tell me the correct plug gap? Thanks in advance!!
#7
#8
Electrode Gap
Standard (New): 1.2-1.3mm (0.047-0.051 in)
Do not adjust the gap of iridium tip plugs; replace
the spark plug if the gap is out of specification.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Replace the plug at the specified interval or when the
center electrode is rounded. Use only the listed
spark plugs.
Spark Plugs
NGK: IZFR6K13
DENSO: SKJ20DR-M13
Standard (New): 1.2-1.3mm (0.047-0.051 in)
Do not adjust the gap of iridium tip plugs; replace
the spark plug if the gap is out of specification.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Replace the plug at the specified interval or when the
center electrode is rounded. Use only the listed
spark plugs.
Spark Plugs
NGK: IZFR6K13
DENSO: SKJ20DR-M13
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