Hi guys,

First, I must say this forum is an invaluable source of info for me and my Fit. Thanks to everyone.

I have a 08 Fit Sport Auto with 83k miles on it. A few weeks ago, I noticed the engine would start sputtering and die out some times when I put the car in reverse or in drive on a cold engine. If I let it warm up for a 2-3 minutes, it would be fine. So I got a 90k tune up, they swapped out spark plugs, tranny fluid and all the other normal things. I assumed that this 90k service would take care of the sputtering problem. It did not.

Now I have read all over the form of the "Jerky Fit" syndrome, but my Fit does not die out when I'm driving. I don't have a problem with the AC either. Just, when the engine is cold and I try to drive.

Replacing coil packs and spacing the spark plug gaps smaller seems to be working for every one else. Would this be the same for me?

Once again, thank you to all contributors.

Michael

 

I suppose your problem could be a number of things but I'd guess it's the coil packs. Good luck.

 

What's a 90K tune up?
Who were 'they'??
Did you inform 'them' of the issue before 'they' stared work?
Never assume.
What's good for the goose has nothing to do with the gander.
You're welcome.

 

The coil pack issue pops up at higher rpms than idle when the car is under load.... I would put some fuel system cleaner in it and give that a try.... It could be moisture or dirt in the fuel causing your problem... Also consider searching out the idle relearn procedure and give that a try.

 

I know this thread is 3 years old. Just commenting since i was doing a search and this popped up as one of the top hits. In case anyone else comes across this the fix is valve lash adjustment. Doesn't make sense IMO, and i cant explain why its that. But there have been a few threads were the adjustment fixed problem and i JUST did this on my brothers GD3. His symptoms was the same. Bog/stall in drive/reverse on cold start. Its cheaper to perform than to start replacing parts.

 

The theory is this:


A cold engine is a different size (literally) than a hot engine....the aluminum expands as the engine warms up, so clearances (relationships between the components) change. In the case of valves, probably the exhausts were too tight to properly open, and expel the gasses. So, the cold engine was "choking" on itself.

Kudos to your bro' for noticing the errant behavior and acting on it. (And, you too, for actually doing the work.)

 

I'm glad that this thread was revived, and I'm grateful for Carbuff's explanation (I like to understand things).

 

Dude thats why i was so confused. Intakes got loose but exhaust valves got tight. I was so confused since this was first motor i saw were exhaust got tight (not that i do this often, lol). Thank you for explanation!

 

That seems to be the norm for Fit engines (and some other engines that I am familiar with). I adjusted our Fit's valves at 60K miles and will do it again next summer (at a little over 100K)

 

Good and true but I have to disagree on the last part. With the cold engine and no clearance on the exhaust side (even with cold engine) the exhaust valve is open MORE and for a longer amount of time so what is happening maybe be the intake charge gets diluted with more exhaust mixture going out and some air from the outside is forced into the chamber by reversion leaning it out causing the rough running.

When it warms up and the clearance OPENS the exhaust valves open less for shorter amounts of time and there is less dilution of the mixture by reversion.

 

as engine warms up both intake and exhaust valve clearances decrease but the exhaust gets hotter so they decrease more than the intakes which is why the clearances set at room temperature are greater for exhaust valves than intakes. For best resuts the exhaust clearances should be toward the upper end of specs by a well-experienced holder of the feeler gages. Lets see how my memory is: .008 to .009 intake, .0010-.011 exhaust. If you measure the gaps at 'running temp" they won't be much different at .006-.008". Some of us are known to set clearances after heavy load workouts such as a few really race quality 'laps' on a dyno to max hp..

 

The coil paks could be a problem and easily so at 90k but first I'd check the cold idle circuit including the ECU to make sure its not the fuel commands to a warming engine. If its a or more coil pak its likely to get worse.

And yes slightly narrower spark plug gaps will help degrading coil paks but only so long. We've never had the success with valve gap adjustments that otyhers have. unless one or more was really tight.

 

Like the injector cleaner as even better first 'fix'. WallyWorld sells some nice non-alcohol cleaner at cheap price. clogged injectors would be a real problem at idle and low rpm running.