ELF is a european brand and he runs it on his 911, from their numbers it looks like that their oil is quite good, id say between M1 and AMS in the same grade but unfortunately they dont make a 5w20 oil. I'm probably going to lean to M1 just because of the fact that even if they arn't the best, they arn't the worst and im for sure going to be better off with M1 than mineral oil. Ams is technically better in every way but i cant find a place that sells 5w20 ams so far and of the places i have found that sell ams, it's more expensive compared to other synthetics in the same grade.

 

Ahh ok. Yes, M1 has 5w-20. i saw it today at the local Wal-Mart for $23/5qt jug. I'm an Amsoil dealer if you need Amsoil, but i'd say go ahead with the M1 as it'll be cheaper.

 

I don't think any suppliers here in BC sell Amsoil. Why are they SO good?? How much is it compared to M1??

 

I'm going to switch over to 5w-20 full synthetic mobil 1 oil and i wanted to get a better oil filter so i'm opting to buy a Hamp oil filter because i've heard they're better than the fram made oem filters. Question is where is the cheapest place to buy one online? I went to jhpusa's website and i'm thinking of buying a box of 10 but if anyone knows a good place to buy please post here. thanx

 

mobil1 oil filters are good too. they work with the M1 oil via synthetic nanofibers.

the part number is M1-110.

 

omg im so confused

i know mobil 1 supersyn polyalphaolefin (PAO) based and ams 5w20 XL is Group III based, now i know group III is mineral but on this site AMSOIL Home it says that polyalphaolefins are synthetic hydrocarbons ... but like 2 paragraphs later it says pao base oils are chemically changed from a petrochemical feedstock ...

what the heck is going on !?!?!?

at the engine oil bible site they say PAOs are refined from mineral oils but on wikipedia it states that pure synthetics use paos as their base oil ... ive got 4 different sources each saying different things in 50/50 split ...

 

Just bought the 10pack off of Password JDM's website. I'll post my results in the Oil filter thread

 

The JDM Hamp, OEM S2000 Filters and the OEM Filtech Filters are ok. They all fit and they are all almost 100% indenticle inside, just the external deminsons are different, the S2000 is bigger, and shorter than the OEM/Hamp. The JDM Hamp and OEM S2000 filters are made by Toyo Roki, the good brand, the OEM PLM filters are now made by either Honewell or Filtech.

The Honeywell OEM filters are Fram. Filtech makes bosch filters.

15400-PCX-004 = S2000 Toyo Roki = Good
15400-PLM-A01 = Filtech = Good
15400-PLM-A02 = Honeywell = BAD

 

Does anyone here in BC know where to buy Mobil 1 oil filters??? I really want to use Mobil 1 synthetic oil with their oil filters. I know Walmart sells the oil, but i dont' believe they sell filters.

 

dude, you're really stressing over nothing. Just buy the damn M1 oil and M1 filter and put it in. Anything is still better than dino oil.

M1 filters can be found at autozone.

 

Yes mobil 1 is now Group III, which means its basicly the same as all the other sythetic's, As far as i know the only group IV's anymore are Mobil1 Extended Performance and Amsoil.

None of this realy bothers me i run Castrol GTX and will probably forever

 

M1 super syin is group III ?? i thought they were group IV cuz they're PAO based ...

 

I couldn't find mobil 1 synthetic 5s-20 anywhere... so i got Castro Synthetic 5w-20, is castrol pretty good?
How much u think they'll charge me for using my own oil at the oil at honda dealership?

 

ever since Castrol won there court case, all the companys are using Group III and calling it Synthetic. Because they can increase profits by using less quality oil and leaving the name on it.

 

i'm running 8~9k intervals (assuming normal driving) on my sti using amsoil 5w-30 or royal purple 5w-30 and a canton mecca oil filter (billet surround + element). after sending some of the used oil off for analysis i find i can go even longer if i really felt like it.

then again, turbos prefer old oil.

i just looked up the canton part numbers for hondas and subarus--they're the same (w00t). looks like i'm pulling the filter off and putting it on the fit. I'll have the oil tested at 10k to see how it's going.

--no, i would never spend this kind of money on a fit. that's just silly. i'm only putting it on because i've had it since i had my wrx wagon.--

elements are 10/pc from racerpartswholesale. maybe i'll snag a new o-ring while i'm at it.

those of you using oil viscosity to unlock hidden power... just don't. it's embarrassing. you aren't finding anything, really. those of us in the southwest and texas need to pay special heed to this, as it will soon be hitting 100~120F daily. 0w-20 may not end up being the best idea and 10w-anything is overkill for these motors.

TO THE GUY FROM EGYPT: your summers are about 40c+ every day, right? just stick with the factory recommended 5w-20, or 5w-30 if that's easier to find. the fit's motor isn't a high-stress motor so you do not need to worry about it. the ONLY thing i would recommend is maybe changing the oil more often during the summer. smell it and feel it at 4k. if it smells heavily of gasoline, looks very dark, and doesn't feel slick anymore, it's time to change it.

for those of you out there who are cheap bastards, look at purolator and pureONE (the purolator line with a new improved higher price! yay!) for your cars. i don't know for certain, but i'll hazard a guess that the part number is pl-14459. pl-14460 is the same size but with a convex-pointed threading more suitable for subarus. they're quite decent and the purolator line is ~3 dollars while the pureONE line is ~6 and change. Keep in mind that i was using the mobil 1 filter religiously back in the day until i looked inside a purolator and realized it was just as good. 11 dollars for a normal pedestrian oil filter? nah, no thanks.

 

well just had my first oil change @ 6446miles the mider said 15%
i went with the hamp oil filter and 5w20 royal purple oil pricey but well worth it

 

Hamp is Honda's "just under OEM" spec line of high turn over parts such as filters, brakes, belts, wiperblades, etc. marketed for older cars, the line was introduced around 1999 or so. While cheaper for certain markets, the filters are Japanese made, by Toyo Roki (nort Fram as here in US) as pointed out. This is similar to buying genuine Bosch parts from Bosch or Genuine Bosch in a WorldParts or Beck Arnley box.

However, if you do some shopping, you can get the PCX (S2000) filters for a bit above the cost of the Hamp ones (from the online "JDM" dealers, not the eBay auctions that bill them as race parts) and some vendors with the best deals on Hamp are listed here.

 

Am I reading this right? On my first oil change, when the maintenance minder just says "A", am I supposed to change oil, but not the filter? Is there some reason I should keep the old dirty filter on my car?

 

well.....me personally i wont go and change the oil and leave the filter on. yes you ARE reading it correctly and there is a letter/number to specifically change the filter but yeah.

most people will say to follow the "MM System" and by not following it your throwing away money. so yeah its your call since the system says to change oil then filter when told to.

i change my oil and filter every time i get down to about 30% but no lower than 20%. i do check it every week since i drive about 450 miles per week to make sure im losing much oil and to check if its getting too black.

so yeah kind of a long boring post but hopefully itll make some sense and help you out

 

Are you sure? Because I've never read that in the book. As far as I know, once it's time to change the oil, you also change the filter. And both should be done roughly every 5000mi/8000km. BTW, it won't just read "A". The minder will have a corresponding number alongside the letter ie. A1, A2, etc.