Here is a link to share , tons of info, especialy check out oils and filters Motorcycle Info and Accessories

 

Has anyone actually seen in writing when Honda recommends changing the FIRST oil fill?

I was told it was in this thread by a user but after paging threw it never say that detail.

One item I'd like to share. The detail about the factor 1st fill being a special oil is true. I found a thread on here last nigh with a user that had that 1st oil fill in his Fit tested (as it was being replaced) and the oil contained Molybdenum at 650ppm and that is higher than any oil I have ever seen. moly is an additve used to reduce friction

 

An engine, once warmed operates in a very narrow temperature band regardless of what the outside environmental temperatures are. Your thermostat opens to allow the engine to be cooled whenever the engine exceeds about 190 degrees (typical, maybe not specific to Fit). It closes again to "re-warm" the engine whenever it cools only a couple of degrees. Needless to say it's essentially a constant temperature operation, and this is by design, to minimize power losses due to heat loss. Therefore, there is no need to ever exceed your manufacturer's heaviest oil weight recommendation, as you will not be in an environment that will be hot enough to effect the warm operating temperature of the engine. If you live in Antarctica or another extreme cold location, thinner 0W-20 oils may be required to get the engine to start in the freezing temps. That'd be the only reason to deviate from the Manufacturer's rec. If your engine operated constantly (no start-ups/shutdowns) you wouldn't need variable weight oil at all. 20W oil would be perfect for your engine.

 

I changed mine today for the 1st time.
4750 miles and 40%

I used Walmart 5W-20 Super Tech

My race partner that works at Honda said he has had good luck over many years with it. I did not have tome to check it out on BITOG site. He said it was made by Mobil. It was $1.70/qt

A few observations and comments:

The filter OD is small . You may want to make sure your oil filter wrench fits' Mine was too small (metal band type that worked on '90 Accord) so I'll need a new one. I used a rubber band type wrench.

The pan plug is 17mm

The plug gasket "washer" is metal and should last many times.

The fill says 3.8 qts and it's true. 4 is a tad too much just over the top measure hole on the dip stick.

To reset the oil minder

1. Turn the ign key to II
2. press "tap" the rest till % oil is read.
3. Press and hold for 10 sec till in blinks
4. Lift and press again for 5 till it goes to 100%

Don't forget to enter the service in the maint book.

I grabbed a std sample and will send it in Monday to a lab to see what it looks like.

Sorry if I repeated something that has already been reported.

 

Hey, I saw your post over on BITOG. Be sure to post the results of your UOA here too!

 

I see you've made your first change, but FWIW (page 1):

http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SN/B060800.PDF


High moly factory fill isn't a special oil per se, but just due to the residual assembly lube used at the factory as they put the engine together. First change is at the first normal interval (5% olm for the Fit).


Apologies if this is redundant.

 

I keep challenging my Honda friend on this item. Today he told me he has seen many short blocks from Honda Japan and none have the moly paste that many of us have seen on race engines to torque fasteners (ARP makes it so does Crane Cams) and think of. It's a dark gray paste. He said he only see's some clear looking stuff.

Perhaps the pour in a moly additive when the add the original oil??

Too bad we do not have a Honda factory worker on this site. I swear I'd ask a few questions

 

Not sure you'll like to hear this.

Honda is VERY picky about using Honda brand everything (ATF, Power Stearing oil etc), but guess what. The dealerships don't use qt's of Honda oil when they change your oil because it cost too much. All the ones in my area use bulk from Quaker State.

This is just another reason to do your own oil changes using a product you can determine is best.

 

so which oil filter do i get for my 08 FIT?
would the rsx filters work?

 

 

Hmm, a lot of phosphorus and zinc. (THAT'S GOOD)

Do you suppose Honda is using a high ZDDP oil for factory fill?

 

I have test results from other non race oils with an additive package like that, less the butt load of moly

675ppm
man that some kind of record

 

The phos. and zinc are extreme pressure (anti friction) additives of the oil. The high moly. content of your test sample comes from the moly. coating on the o.d. of the new piston rings. All rings are made with a plasma-sprayed coating of mylybdenum. The moly. ppm will fall in future tests (drastically) as the rings gradually wear to perfectly match the circularity of the cylinder liners. The "wearing in" of the rings takes a long time because molybdenum is a gliding metal with its own anti-wear slipperiness. Once the surfaces are worn to a "match", the wear on the rings almost stops unless the oil level is not properly maintained.

 

Do you have a link to or can you share how you know this to be fact?

I build and race engines that have a plasma moly top rings and have never seen anything close to this in past testing. To get 650ppm would seem like the ring face would be gone in 5000 miles if your comment would be true.

My feeling is it's a doping from the factory, but that just based on experience with race engines and lots of oil testing and... working with Terry Dyson.

 

Can't be an SM oil though, they don't have much ZDDP anymore 'cause it coats the leading edge of catalytic converters over time.

The newer ZDDP-free oil is not a problem for the Fit, but older cars that still use slipper-type cam followers (instead of roller rockers) NEED at least 800 PPM I'm told.

Some of the "Non-race" oils of heavier weights (20W-50) are formulated with more ZDDP now, about 800PPM. In the "old days" of SL-oils the ZDDP was over 1000...

 

Analyze your oil again in 5000 miles or so. If you continue to use the same oil the moly will be less. I sold, installed, and trained the operators in the use of plasma thermospray equipment, also sold the moly powder, that is used to create the moly coating on all rings. Cylinder liners are factory honed in a manner that intentionally leaves thousands of score marks over every sq. inch of surface area. The scores act as micro-files to wear off the high spots of the piston rings in a new engine. But feel free to believe whatever you want. Race engines are different in many ways from stock engines.

 

I know that moly in the oil hangs around.
Used a Schaffers Micron Moly oil that had 150ppm (the highest I have ever seen pre FIT FF) and after swapping to VR-1 that had little moly saw moly higher till the 2nd change.

BTW From my paid for test data: VOA and UOA's
Race oils:
Valvoline VR-1 has around 0 to 10ppm
Old green Kendall GT-1 has 50ppm
Royal Purple XRP has 120ppm
Brad Penn 0ppm

pass car oil I used UOA
Chevron Supreame 65ppm
Shell Clean 35 to 75ppm

Terry Dyson calls moly "secondary protection"

My 15:1 565 has 8 cylinders and 4.600" bore.
The top ring is file fit plasma moly.
I suspect other than size, very much like the Fits top ring.

Think about the surface area of that 565cid eng compared to the Fit and tell me with a straight face the moly in my oil (675ppm) was from the factory ring

It had to be an additive.

 

We also have moly-impregnated piston skirts, do we not?

 

I have always changed my oil every 3000-3500 on all of my cars, and one has 370k miles original motor no rebuild, just maintenence, another had 140k. My accord has 100K, and I change that every 5k or 6months, because I don't drive it as much. My fit is at 6k+ miles after 2 months, and it says 45% oil life left. I want to change my oil, and have a dozen OEM filters and crush washers, and some 5-30regular castrol and 5-20 Mobil 1 syn at all times in my garage. On my CBR600RR I chagned oil at 500, 1000, 3000, 6000, 9000, because of the metal shavings. The first two had a ton of shavings in it. But on the fit everyone is saying don't change it until it hits 15%, but I am not going to wait for 10k miles to come, I feel like I would be abusing the car. None of my vehicles have ever gone catastrophic either. I maintain premium luxury cars for a living but always buy hondas. I am seriously wondering whats up with the oil life indicator on these lil shits. I also use Lucas stabilizers in oil and fuel on all my cars and injector cleaners every oil change, with a touch of marvel mystery oil in the gas and the oil. Its a killer cocktail. My vehicles have ran extremely strong and never have issues through entire vehicle life. Just want to have the fit be the same. I know the break in period is most important, but usually that means using regular oil for the first two oil cycles in hondas, then using a blend or syn after that. This is seriously driving me nut, dammed oil life lights

 

Here's what the Fit factory filter looks like after 4500 miles
It's loaded with:
metal, RTV
Gasket

LMAO of those stupid enough to go to 15% on the 1st

BTW Before the clueless chime in,
this is typicall of ALL NEW ENGINES