Dead pedal ,photos, DIY, answers, questions
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 196
From: Pennsylvania
The same way you would go about as if you bought anything else in this world. Contact the vendor and work it out with them.
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 196
From: Pennsylvania
Don't "target" people like this until the issue is completely resolved. I dealt with Zeta during the ownership of my first 2 Fits and they are top notch.
Go private the next time you need an issue resolved.
I cannot install this dead pedal. It will not line up properly. The welds were not done correctly. I cannot get both bolts tightened down because the welds were not done at a proper 90 degree angle, thus making this installation impossible. How do I get a replacement on this defective pedal?
See below image for what I am talking about. I have already tried bending it, but it won't budge. It would break off before any bending would occur.
See below image for what I am talking about. I have already tried bending it, but it won't budge. It would break off before any bending would occur.
Please return it and we will replace it.
Thanks StormSilverGD3 for your support!
New Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 14
From: ameRica's finesT (619) & ameRica's playGRound (702) on planeT Rock
04apR09 //GtR 2008 Gd3 hatch w/ 19143 miles - no foot Rest, stock pedals
05apR09 //GtR 2008 Gd3 hatch w/ 19242 miles - zeta pRoducts fit-dp dRiveR's dead pedal, Razo Gt spec Rp106 foot Rest, Razo Gt spec Rp103 at accel & bRake
thanks anGelo! i oRdeRed my dead pedal from zetapRoducts.net on monday and Got it in the mail on fRiday. i had to Renew my ReGistRation the next day, so i installed the dead pedal on satuRday. it was a bitch to line up. took me a Good 30 minutes, but so woRth it. befoRe installinG it, i mounted the Razo foot Rest on top of it because i didn't want to take a chance of dRillinG thRouGh the dead pedal into the flooR. i also installed the Razo pedals, but i think i Got the wRonG size. i bouGht the laRGe set from supeR autobacs the week befoRe b/c i couldn't pass up the 20% off sale. appaRently they Got bouGht out. idk if they aRe still called super autobacs. anyway, i think it miGht look betteR w/ the small oR medium set. what dou you Guys think?
05apR09 //GtR 2008 Gd3 hatch w/ 19242 miles - zeta pRoducts fit-dp dRiveR's dead pedal, Razo Gt spec Rp106 foot Rest, Razo Gt spec Rp103 at accel & bRake
thanks anGelo! i oRdeRed my dead pedal from zetapRoducts.net on monday and Got it in the mail on fRiday. i had to Renew my ReGistRation the next day, so i installed the dead pedal on satuRday. it was a bitch to line up. took me a Good 30 minutes, but so woRth it. befoRe installinG it, i mounted the Razo foot Rest on top of it because i didn't want to take a chance of dRillinG thRouGh the dead pedal into the flooR. i also installed the Razo pedals, but i think i Got the wRonG size. i bouGht the laRGe set from supeR autobacs the week befoRe b/c i couldn't pass up the 20% off sale. appaRently they Got bouGht out. idk if they aRe still called super autobacs. anyway, i think it miGht look betteR w/ the small oR medium set. what dou you Guys think?
Last edited by gtr auto pilot; Apr 11, 2009 at 06:40 PM.
New Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 18
From: Edmonton
Installed mine last night. I left the tape off and I think it looks and works great. One thing I noticed is that it is slightly angled to the left. It's not a big deal, but I was just wondering if this was intentional.
The pedal should sit flat. We have noticed that on a very few cars, the carpeting and the sound deadening is just slightly thicker, or is bunched up where the dead pedal should be. That would make the pedal sit on a slight angle. You can bend the support brace that is welded to the back of the pedal to make it sit flatter. You may also try to peel the carpet out a bit to rearrange the sound deadening pad. If this is a big problem for you, please call us to discuss.
New Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 18
From: Edmonton
Thanks for the quick response! You're right in assuming that the sound deadening material is thicker or bunched up. I looked at a few pictures in this thread and the carpet around my deadpeadal area definitely sits higher than normal. That said, it's not a problem at this point. It doesn't bug me now, and I'm guessing that the deadpedal will sit flatter the more I use it, pushing the carpet and sound deadening material down.
My buddy made mine, check it out
Double stick tape won't hold for very long.
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 68
From: Chattanooga, TN
Tips for Dead Pedal-ers
I just installed the Zeta Products dead pedal on my 2008 Fit Sport MT this morning. It was a challenge for several reasons, but it seems solid now, and I like it. Thanks to Zeta Products for developing and marketing it. Shipping was prompt and IMO the price was fair. To help others who might want to try this modification, let me offer some of my experiences so others may learn from them.
First, it helps to have good lighting. Find a portable light you can have shining (hands-free) on the area. A 60 watt bulb, when under a foot from your face in a tight space, gets pretty hot quickly. Consider a 40 watt or LED if you can position one.
Second, get a hand towel or rag to cover the area on the sill underneath the hood release once the kick panel is removed. Why? Well, if you drop one of the bolts down in there ... twice ... it’s a PITA.
Start by removing that rubber plug. But it just covers up a post, which pokes through an eye socket in the top of the kick panel. Not only remove that rubber plug, but pull the post out and to the side of that eye socket. It takes a bit of prying and pulling, but the panel is flexible.
As far as removing the kick panel, the directions say not to pull it sideways. The trouble is, what is sideways? It depends on your perspective. I think what they mean is don’t pull it toward the center console. You want to pull up and back toward the rear of the car, as another person noted.
Threading through the latch release isn’t very hard, but after that, and more pulling, I heard a pop and it came free. No damage, but it makes you worry. No idea if I did that right.
Once the kickpanel is away and the bolts removed, the real challenge is lining up the dead pedal bolt holes with those of the latch mounting plate with the holes in the car frame. This is challenging because the surfaces don’t meet flush. The dead pedal surface was at an angle to the latch mounting plate – even when I put pressure on the dead pedal (it was less askew, but still askew). Also, if you put too much pressure on the dead pedal, it will pull away from the side of the car, the latch mounting plate will slip down and away – you’ll have to start over. I scratched the daylights out of the lightly-painted car frame surface there. It gets very frustrating! Put just a little pressure on the pedal, just enough to get the surfaces closer to flat enough to start threading the bolt with your finger. Still, those surfaces will be nowhere near parallel when you start.
Start with the bottom one. But before long, you won’t be able to use a socket wrench. There’s not enough clearance on the dead pedal mounting arm. You’ll need a crescent wrench to finish up the tightening. But before that, get the top one hand-started as well. Work each one in turns. If you have it threaded right, it will tighten and the surfaces will start to come flush with each other.
In putting things back together, I did find that I had one white clip (the lower one) still on the frame, and the upper one still in the plastic kick panel. I tried to remove the one from the car’s frame with needlenose pliers, but it not only wouldn’t budge, but a little of white plastic came off with each attempt. I gave up and just tried to wiggle the kick panel back into position; it went easily. But then I had to back up and first put that upper post in the eye again, cover it with the rubber boot, then angle the bottom part back in position. It wasn’t hard to get the the rubber strip back over top of the seam, but I have no idea if the clips went back in place or were secure. I could not tell by feel, sight, or sound. The panel seemed to fit in place OK, wasn’t noticably loose, the latch works and seems pretty centered in its slot, so I guess it’s correct.
For me, it was harder than it appeared on paper. The quarters are tight, hot if lighted up, and ideally, you really need three hands. But I really needed this mod – I was starting to wear through the carpeting where a dead pedal should be, and I know of no easy way to patch that. I’m grateful Zeta Products makes this thing, though I think Honda should have included one standard.
First, it helps to have good lighting. Find a portable light you can have shining (hands-free) on the area. A 60 watt bulb, when under a foot from your face in a tight space, gets pretty hot quickly. Consider a 40 watt or LED if you can position one.
Second, get a hand towel or rag to cover the area on the sill underneath the hood release once the kick panel is removed. Why? Well, if you drop one of the bolts down in there ... twice ... it’s a PITA.
Start by removing that rubber plug. But it just covers up a post, which pokes through an eye socket in the top of the kick panel. Not only remove that rubber plug, but pull the post out and to the side of that eye socket. It takes a bit of prying and pulling, but the panel is flexible.
As far as removing the kick panel, the directions say not to pull it sideways. The trouble is, what is sideways? It depends on your perspective. I think what they mean is don’t pull it toward the center console. You want to pull up and back toward the rear of the car, as another person noted.
Threading through the latch release isn’t very hard, but after that, and more pulling, I heard a pop and it came free. No damage, but it makes you worry. No idea if I did that right.
Once the kickpanel is away and the bolts removed, the real challenge is lining up the dead pedal bolt holes with those of the latch mounting plate with the holes in the car frame. This is challenging because the surfaces don’t meet flush. The dead pedal surface was at an angle to the latch mounting plate – even when I put pressure on the dead pedal (it was less askew, but still askew). Also, if you put too much pressure on the dead pedal, it will pull away from the side of the car, the latch mounting plate will slip down and away – you’ll have to start over. I scratched the daylights out of the lightly-painted car frame surface there. It gets very frustrating! Put just a little pressure on the pedal, just enough to get the surfaces closer to flat enough to start threading the bolt with your finger. Still, those surfaces will be nowhere near parallel when you start.
Start with the bottom one. But before long, you won’t be able to use a socket wrench. There’s not enough clearance on the dead pedal mounting arm. You’ll need a crescent wrench to finish up the tightening. But before that, get the top one hand-started as well. Work each one in turns. If you have it threaded right, it will tighten and the surfaces will start to come flush with each other.
In putting things back together, I did find that I had one white clip (the lower one) still on the frame, and the upper one still in the plastic kick panel. I tried to remove the one from the car’s frame with needlenose pliers, but it not only wouldn’t budge, but a little of white plastic came off with each attempt. I gave up and just tried to wiggle the kick panel back into position; it went easily. But then I had to back up and first put that upper post in the eye again, cover it with the rubber boot, then angle the bottom part back in position. It wasn’t hard to get the the rubber strip back over top of the seam, but I have no idea if the clips went back in place or were secure. I could not tell by feel, sight, or sound. The panel seemed to fit in place OK, wasn’t noticably loose, the latch works and seems pretty centered in its slot, so I guess it’s correct.
For me, it was harder than it appeared on paper. The quarters are tight, hot if lighted up, and ideally, you really need three hands. But I really needed this mod – I was starting to wear through the carpeting where a dead pedal should be, and I know of no easy way to patch that. I’m grateful Zeta Products makes this thing, though I think Honda should have included one standard.
I just installed the Zeta Products dead pedal on my 2008 Fit Sport MT this morning. It was a challenge for several reasons, but it seems solid now, and I like it. Thanks to Zeta Products for developing and marketing it. Shipping was prompt and IMO the price was fair. To help others who might want to try this modification, let me offer some of my experiences so others may learn from them.
First, it helps to have good lighting. Find a portable light you can have shining (hands-free) on the area. A 60 watt bulb, when under a foot from your face in a tight space, gets pretty hot quickly. Consider a 40 watt or LED if you can position one.
Second, get a hand towel or rag to cover the area on the sill underneath the hood release once the kick panel is removed. Why? Well, if you drop one of the bolts down in there ... twice ... it’s a PITA.
Start by removing that rubber plug. But it just covers up a post, which pokes through an eye socket in the top of the kick panel. Not only remove that rubber plug, but pull the post out and to the side of that eye socket. It takes a bit of prying and pulling, but the panel is flexible.
As far as removing the kick panel, the directions say not to pull it sideways. The trouble is, what is sideways? It depends on your perspective. I think what they mean is don’t pull it toward the center console. You want to pull up and back toward the rear of the car, as another person noted.
Threading through the latch release isn’t very hard, but after that, and more pulling, I heard a pop and it came free. No damage, but it makes you worry. No idea if I did that right.
Once the kickpanel is away and the bolts removed, the real challenge is lining up the dead pedal bolt holes with those of the latch mounting plate with the holes in the car frame. This is challenging because the surfaces don’t meet flush. The dead pedal surface was at an angle to the latch mounting plate – even when I put pressure on the dead pedal (it was less askew, but still askew). Also, if you put too much pressure on the dead pedal, it will pull away from the side of the car, the latch mounting plate will slip down and away – you’ll have to start over. I scratched the daylights out of the lightly-painted car frame surface there. It gets very frustrating! Put just a little pressure on the pedal, just enough to get the surfaces closer to flat enough to start threading the bolt with your finger. Still, those surfaces will be nowhere near parallel when you start.
Start with the bottom one. But before long, you won’t be able to use a socket wrench. There’s not enough clearance on the dead pedal mounting arm. You’ll need a crescent wrench to finish up the tightening. But before that, get the top one hand-started as well. Work each one in turns. If you have it threaded right, it will tighten and the surfaces will start to come flush with each other.
In putting things back together, I did find that I had one white clip (the lower one) still on the frame, and the upper one still in the plastic kick panel. I tried to remove the one from the car’s frame with needlenose pliers, but it not only wouldn’t budge, but a little of white plastic came off with each attempt. I gave up and just tried to wiggle the kick panel back into position; it went easily. But then I had to back up and first put that upper post in the eye again, cover it with the rubber boot, then angle the bottom part back in position. It wasn’t hard to get the the rubber strip back over top of the seam, but I have no idea if the clips went back in place or were secure. I could not tell by feel, sight, or sound. The panel seemed to fit in place OK, wasn’t noticably loose, the latch works and seems pretty centered in its slot, so I guess it’s correct.
For me, it was harder than it appeared on paper. The quarters are tight, hot if lighted up, and ideally, you really need three hands. But I really needed this mod – I was starting to wear through the carpeting where a dead pedal should be, and I know of no easy way to patch that. I’m grateful Zeta Products makes this thing, though I think Honda should have included one standard.
First, it helps to have good lighting. Find a portable light you can have shining (hands-free) on the area. A 60 watt bulb, when under a foot from your face in a tight space, gets pretty hot quickly. Consider a 40 watt or LED if you can position one.
Second, get a hand towel or rag to cover the area on the sill underneath the hood release once the kick panel is removed. Why? Well, if you drop one of the bolts down in there ... twice ... it’s a PITA.
Start by removing that rubber plug. But it just covers up a post, which pokes through an eye socket in the top of the kick panel. Not only remove that rubber plug, but pull the post out and to the side of that eye socket. It takes a bit of prying and pulling, but the panel is flexible.
As far as removing the kick panel, the directions say not to pull it sideways. The trouble is, what is sideways? It depends on your perspective. I think what they mean is don’t pull it toward the center console. You want to pull up and back toward the rear of the car, as another person noted.
Threading through the latch release isn’t very hard, but after that, and more pulling, I heard a pop and it came free. No damage, but it makes you worry. No idea if I did that right.
Once the kickpanel is away and the bolts removed, the real challenge is lining up the dead pedal bolt holes with those of the latch mounting plate with the holes in the car frame. This is challenging because the surfaces don’t meet flush. The dead pedal surface was at an angle to the latch mounting plate – even when I put pressure on the dead pedal (it was less askew, but still askew). Also, if you put too much pressure on the dead pedal, it will pull away from the side of the car, the latch mounting plate will slip down and away – you’ll have to start over. I scratched the daylights out of the lightly-painted car frame surface there. It gets very frustrating! Put just a little pressure on the pedal, just enough to get the surfaces closer to flat enough to start threading the bolt with your finger. Still, those surfaces will be nowhere near parallel when you start.
Start with the bottom one. But before long, you won’t be able to use a socket wrench. There’s not enough clearance on the dead pedal mounting arm. You’ll need a crescent wrench to finish up the tightening. But before that, get the top one hand-started as well. Work each one in turns. If you have it threaded right, it will tighten and the surfaces will start to come flush with each other.
In putting things back together, I did find that I had one white clip (the lower one) still on the frame, and the upper one still in the plastic kick panel. I tried to remove the one from the car’s frame with needlenose pliers, but it not only wouldn’t budge, but a little of white plastic came off with each attempt. I gave up and just tried to wiggle the kick panel back into position; it went easily. But then I had to back up and first put that upper post in the eye again, cover it with the rubber boot, then angle the bottom part back in position. It wasn’t hard to get the the rubber strip back over top of the seam, but I have no idea if the clips went back in place or were secure. I could not tell by feel, sight, or sound. The panel seemed to fit in place OK, wasn’t noticably loose, the latch works and seems pretty centered in its slot, so I guess it’s correct.
For me, it was harder than it appeared on paper. The quarters are tight, hot if lighted up, and ideally, you really need three hands. But I really needed this mod – I was starting to wear through the carpeting where a dead pedal should be, and I know of no easy way to patch that. I’m grateful Zeta Products makes this thing, though I think Honda should have included one standard.