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The RF 360 is a nice piece as it includes a summing. Summing with the JL is a second piece to add only if needed. The JL product uses the highest grade discrete circuitry. I don't believe RF does that.
The real differences are in equalization. At the source level is where the JL does it's job. You insert a CD and press a button and it zero's out the factory HU curve that is there only to make up for the poor response curve of the OEM speakers since they cost only a few dollars.
With the RF, you have to EQ the car trying to correct for the source level's poor performance (electrically), and then acoustically as every vehicle's interior effects the linearity, phasing, and overall sound quality. If you have the perfect speaker with smooth, flat response curve, it will change when you put it in a car.
I know stores that own Audio Control meters. They couldn't properly EQ a car if they tried. They may think they do, but they are simply Audio Control owners, and not masters of the technique or device. With that said, how would a consumer properly adjust something like this.
I would recommend the JL version, and then add an EQ to adjust for taste from there if you wish. The better speaker product you use, the less need for changes. I have dual 30-band EQ's in my Fit, but they are there to correct for acoustical/interior issues. Very little alteration was made.
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