honestly I don't forsee that being a possibility any time soon. I'll have to see how things go with a m/t kit first. then depending on the outcome of that and the demand of a a/t kit I'll decide if its a worth while investment in time. I'd have to either buy a a/t car(unlikely) or borrow someones which I'm not too sure how comfortable i'd be doing that, not to mention I'd have to fly my tuner back out again to work his magic on the car which isn't cheap. I'm not to fond of the local tuners here (example my cousins setup I built made 554whp@27psi on c16(local tuner), then with my buddy he made 631whp@27psi on e85, same dyno only changes were fuel, intake manifold, and turbine housing, and the driveablilty was tremendously better)it would always die and not want to start when warm. just looking at the maps you could see a huge difference, worth it to me to fly a professional out.
May I ask u where ur tuner lives? I'm searching for good tuner, as ill be needing to retune pretty soon.
May I ask u where ur tuner lives? I'm searching for good tuner, as ill be needing to retune pretty soon.
colorado springs, CO Servion Tuning · Colorado's Premier Tuner · Colorado Springs, CO he has been very busy and hasn't updated his "tuned by servion" page in a couple years. he's done some impressive work. he's even tuned a 1200+hp single turbo mustang on E85! he has to be one of the best e85 tuners around. but does great work on other fuels as well. your best bet is to set up a tuning day with him. round up 5-8 guys rent the dyno for the whole day and split the costs of airfair, hotel, and his rate. I know he's done this several times in vegas.
only bad thing is he won't tune greddy e-manage.
from his site.
"I am not willing to tune engine management solutions that I feel do not provide the ability to deliver a safe, reliable, consistent tuneup. Plain and simple, if the engine management has not proven itself to be safe and reliable, I will not tune it. I will not tune a customer's vehicle with a setup that I do not feel will provide an excellent and useable tune"
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2008 SSM Tanabe GF210 springs, Tanabe front strut bar, progress rear sway bar, Drag dr21's gunmetal, S2 short shifter & knob, Mishimoto intake, 8k hids, 4.3k fog's.
ok now that I have an idea of what you guys like turbo wise, the next question is power delivery. I'd like to know what is more favor'd. would you guys like snappy response instant boost with a fat tq curve. (ie. volkswagen 1.8T, dodge srt4) or would you prefer a little lag(although keeping a nice transient response) with horsepower all the way to redline and a more linear power delivery so the vehicle can be driven normally when out of boost?
here is a dyno graph of a similar sized engine (1.6L mini cooper) showing somewhat what i'm trying to get at. the blue plot is the instant response but tapers power towards redline, the green plot is the more linear power delivery with power to redline.
this in strictly to just give an idea on power delivery. just for reference the blue plot is a smaller turbo that spikes to 21psi and tapers to 14psi by redline. the green plot is a solid 16psi on a slightly larger "laggier" turbo.
to put this in easier terms it really comes down to two driving styles. one is someone who wants power the second they push the pedal that races stop light to stop light and is willing to sacrifice top end hp for near instant boost.
the second style is someone who wants the power when they need it and is willing to rev to redline to keep it in the power band, but also likes the car to drive near stock when driving normally.(also helps with gas milage when your foot is out of it)
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2008 SSM Tanabe GF210 springs, Tanabe front strut bar, progress rear sway bar, Drag dr21's gunmetal, S2 short shifter & knob, Mishimoto intake, 8k hids, 4.3k fog's.
yeah same here. I personally am set on a gt2560r(all ready have one) but i'm trying to get a feel for everyone else to see what I need to do if I do choose to try and market a turbo kit for the fit. pretty much have 4 turbo's lined up depending on what people favor. for quick spool looking at a twin scroll k03 or garrett gt2052. for a more linear setup with power to redline i'm set on the gt2252(standard) and gt2560r(upgrade).
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2008 SSM Tanabe GF210 springs, Tanabe front strut bar, progress rear sway bar, Drag dr21's gunmetal, S2 short shifter & knob, Mishimoto intake, 8k hids, 4.3k fog's.
voted for bb. the gt25 you're talking about is whats stock on the sr20det engine, right? how much power do you think the L15 can make safely on stock internals using it?
voted for bb. the gt25 you're talking about is whats stock on the sr20det engine, right? how much power do you think the L15 can make safely on stock internals using it?
i'm actually a big fan of the holset turbo's. lol but a little on the big side for this engine. the gt2560r is stock on the s15 sr20det. the gt2252 is a tad smaller than the s13's sr20det t25 but is the GT technology so it should work quite well.
as for stock internals and power capability, that will come down to my tuners discretion as to what he feel's safe. he reads plugs on all high power pulls as well as monitoring air fuel at all times. also using a load bearing dyno like a dynapac is a very helpful tool. it's the closest to real world loads with the exclusion of aerodynamics. I would like shoot for 200whp(on E85) then detune it back to 160ish whp on pump fuel. but if I did release it in kit form it would be "dumbed down" considerably to take different climates, elevations, and fuel's into consideration.
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2008 SSM Tanabe GF210 springs, Tanabe front strut bar, progress rear sway bar, Drag dr21's gunmetal, S2 short shifter & knob, Mishimoto intake, 8k hids, 4.3k fog's.
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