But I am now ready to shop for a bass and I am pretty sure I want two 12's (I want a lot of bass). I do not plan to replace my head unit so I will need to have a base controller I don't want to be vibrating 100% of the time I need to know if I could hook up a controller to this system.
then just buy some 3/4" MDF board, caulking and good wood screws and build your own big beautiful ported box to specs you can learn about on caraudio.com.
afterwards you can carpet it and you'll end up with a LOUD tuned box.
That's a lot to do for someone who doesn't really know what they're doing. First of all, you linked to Kicker 5-1/4's for the door speakers...which is not quite right since we have 6-1/2's in the front and back doors. I'll take it from that, that you're pretty new to car audio stuff. Now, I'm not expert or installer, but I've done my fair share of systems and it's really not all that difficult.
As far as the bass controller goes, as long as the amp has an input for a bass remote controller, then you can control bass from your driver's seat. The trick will be installing it cleanly, and with little experience, I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself unless you just wanna give it a shot.
Secondly, I'd HIGHLY recommend you replace the head unit for a myriad of reasons....ease of connecting to amp, subwoofer volume control from the head unit, higher quality signal, and just a better overall sound. Without replacing the head unit, you're going to have to tap speaker wires from some location in the car, probably the rear doors. that's gonna be a pain if you're really looking to just throw a sub and amp in the hatch and suddenly have bass.
Bottom line, if you get the right head unit you can control bass output regardless of whether or not the amp has remote control capabilities. There's no "easy" way to just buy a sub, box, and amp and get bass...considering you still have to run the speaker cable from the battery to the amp anyway, and that involves going through the firewall from the cabin of the car to the engine bay.
I know that's a lot more for you to consider, but trust me...do it right the first time and you'll be glad you did.
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ASpec Cold Air Intake
ASpec Axle-Back Exhaust (burnt tip)
17" Raze R74's in Bronze on Kuhmo Ecstas (205/40/17)
HID's 6000K headlights and 3000K fogs
N1 Concepts LED tails - clear/red
Tein Basic Coilovers (waiting to go on car)
I actually already ordered the speakers and they should be at my house. Crutchfield recommended these speakers when I input my car and they included harnesses and brackets that I will need.
As for installing my bass, amp and remote I'll leave that to the professionals at BestBuy I just need to know what to buy that will sound good I actually changed what I am buying a bit. 2 10" Rockford's already in a box and a rockford amp. I'll let you guys know about the door speakers when I get home and pull my door panel off.
Good idea, leaving it to the pros. They'll give you a pretty clean install and probably a warranty as well. Can't beat that!
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ASpec Cold Air Intake
ASpec Axle-Back Exhaust (burnt tip)
17" Raze R74's in Bronze on Kuhmo Ecstas (205/40/17)
HID's 6000K headlights and 3000K fogs
N1 Concepts LED tails - clear/red
Tein Basic Coilovers (waiting to go on car)
That's a lot to do for someone who doesn't really know what they're doing. First of all, you linked to Kicker 5-1/4's for the door speakers...which is not quite right since we have 6-1/2's in the front and back doors. I'll take it from that, that you're pretty new to car audio stuff. Now, I'm not expert or installer, but I've done my fair share of systems and it's really not all that difficult.
As far as the bass controller goes, as long as the amp has an input for a bass remote controller, then you can control bass from your driver's seat. The trick will be installing it cleanly, and with little experience, I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself unless you just wanna give it a shot.
Secondly, I'd HIGHLY recommend you replace the head unit for a myriad of reasons....ease of connecting to amp, subwoofer volume control from the head unit, higher quality signal, and just a better overall sound. Without replacing the head unit, you're going to have to tap speaker wires from some location in the car, probably the rear doors. that's gonna be a pain if you're really looking to just throw a sub and amp in the hatch and suddenly have bass.
Bottom line, if you get the right head unit you can control bass output regardless of whether or not the amp has remote control capabilities. There's no "easy" way to just buy a sub, box, and amp and get bass...considering you still have to run the speaker cable from the battery to the amp anyway, and that involves going through the firewall from the cabin of the car to the engine bay.
I know that's a lot more for you to consider, but trust me...do it right the first time and you'll be glad you did.
making a subwoofer enclosure isn't that much work and doesn't require much knowledge ;-P you can plug in your size parameters to a website and the shape you want plus the port frequency and it'll draw out all of the box parameters for each side, all you have to do is cut boards the right size and drill screws in straight.
So the speakers I ordered were a correct size they came with brackets for a better fit. I did the two rears and they are very clear but there is not much bass out put so until I get my bass I will hold off on installing the front speakers.
I was wondering what you guys think of this set up. It will be professionally installed and I will buy a capacitor when I get the install done.
So the speakers I ordered were a correct size they came with brackets for a better fit. I did the two rears and they are very clear but there is not much bass out put so until I get my bass I will hold off on installing the front speakers.
I was wondering what you guys think of this set up. It will be professionally installed and I will buy a capacitor when I get the install done.
All of your help is very appreciated as you can tell I am a newbie to this but I like learning and working on my own car.
just so you know, capacitors really do very little as far as assisting with a car audio system. they're more for looks than for effect. If you want to upgrade your electrical system, do the "Big 3":
. Negative battery wire to ground - replace the negative battery terminal and wire with a bigger one and ground it to the factory location
2. Engine block to ground - replace the ground wire from the engine block to the chassis with a bigger wire (4 gauge or bigger)
3. Alternator to battery - add a fused wire from the postive post on you alternator (the one comming from the battery) to the postive terminal on your battery. Don't replace the factory wire, just add a extra one. Fuse it the same size as your factory fuse.
And if you want, buy a deep cell battery(optima makes some, I don't know if they FIT in the Fit though.. no pun intended!).
In my opinion, the only subwoofers sold in your local stores that are even worth buying are Alpine, JL, and very few others, Rockford Fosgate are not included in those. So, for the majority of my subwoofer purchasing I look online. Caraudio.com is full of enthusiasts that can rant off to you 50 different setups you should get, but if you just want something mainstream that you can buy in town and will make lots of good clean bass, the Type-R is a very, very good buy.
Honestly I do not intend on installing the bass my self I plan to buy all of the gear from crutchfiled and then have my local tuner shop install everything. As far as the capacitor I am very afraid that I am going to fry my alternator pretty quick using my system and I have been told that a capacitor is a very good solution to having a small battery in a small car.
Well, crutchfield is a very good company, so I would recommend buying from them, they're just more expensive ;-P But, still, I would get that setup. Even just one type-r will be louder than those rockford fosgates and sound better at the same time.
While if you bought all the equipment from onlinecarstereo.com and the enclosure on ebay you'd pay a total of...
$589
So you'd essentially save $380 to buy the exact same thing, and you can still get it all installed by your local tuner shop.
However, I promise you, whoever is trying to SELL you that capacitor is lying. Even 1000w will not fry your alternator, and even if you were running a 2000w setup that COULD, the highest farad capacitor you could find would only help by 2%.
Capacitors are a marketing gimmick. They do nothing.
I will research your set up. It looks promising but dealing with ebay is a definite no no. I will also see if my best buy can order me these things from there suppliers and compare prices. You have been a lot of help, thank you very much.
Well, I can vouch for onlinecarstereo.com, I always get my stuff in good shape and quickly when I order it, as far as ebay goes, that was just the box.
I still think you should pull out the saw and drill and build your own box :-P but you can also get a Dual 12" Ported box anywhere.
Oh my just realised you were showing me 12"s I am not really up for putting such a big box in my trunk as I play hockey and all my friends also play I need most of my truck space that is why I planned on getting 10"s
It's a Diamond d6 w/ a 1200wRMS viper d1200.1 amp.
Both in very good quality, sub already mounted in the box, so since you have all your wires already all the way back to the trunk all you'd have to do is mount the amp and plug everything in.
msg me your zipcode and i'll make you a deal for the total price shipped for both!(It'll be less than 250 most likely shipped!)
aaand i'm charging the batteries for my camera so tonight after work I'll take some pictures and put them up on that thread.
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Last edited by drzenitram; 06-27-2008 at 01:17 PM.
I'm in 07748 let me know how much also pics will definitely help my decision I am seriously considering this but if it doesn't hit hard enough it would be very upsetting.
![Bass & Amp combo [QUESTION]](http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/skyneticonimages/fit-ice/bass-amp-combo-question_ltr.gif)
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