Quote:
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
you really need to do some research before you post. read up stoptech.com
Drilled rotors do not crack under normal conditions. its the people who road race and constantly heat up the brakes to the extremes of the sport. i bought some ebay drilled and slotted rotors for my car, been holding up just fine to my stopngo all city driving.
for daily driving, the rotor will not crack (assuming you buy a quality rotor in the first place.) fastbrakes.com is a legit site and dealer.
i'm sure most of you know, drilled slotted rotors, ss lines, bigger rotors generally do not help braking ability. they are mostly for cosmetics. -drilled/slotted-keeps pad cleaner and cools better, but CANNOT be resurfaced and reused after several pad changes. this is bad b/c deposits from old pads do not let the break-in compounds of the new pads to properly burn off on the rotors. so you'll end up replacing rotors every year or so. also, do not road race with drilled rotors.
-bigger rotors-increase surface area, BUT adds unsprung weight and counteracts benefit of bigger surface area.
-ss lines-more for pedal feel, if u're concerned with brake fade, get ATE blue brake fluid or Motul RBF600 Dot4.
if you really want added braking ability setup, you have 2 options.
-OEM blank rotors and better brake pads. SS lines and ATE/Motul fluid are extras. Hawk HPS and Axxis Ultimate pads are the best for daily. Axxis outperforms Hawk a bit but gets REAL dusty.
-Wilwood brake setup-bigger rotors, BUT aluminum center hat so less unsprung weight vs. weight of bigger solid rotors and even OEM rotors. 4 piston calipers, and all the benefits and cosmetics.
StopTech is the proven BEST aftermarket brake setup thats cheaper than Brembos. but at the moment, i dont think they have a kit for the Fit.
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Good advice,
My two cents... brakes are usually designed to accomodate the limits of the stock tires. Go too far and you will lock up those stock tires earlier and more frequently. Upgrade tires if you get bigger brakes. Also, an alternative to drilled/slotted rotors is brake ducting which can be made cheaply and easily from Home Depot

.
Leave the fronts alone and save up some money and get the T1R rear disc brake conversion (all OEM parts except the pads). Yes most of the braking is from the front, but it will give
1. Shorter braking distance
2. More even: giving more braking power to the rear causing less wear and tear on the fronts and better stopping power.
3. More stable: reduces rear to front momentum transfer too (less nose dive)].
Pads...factory pads these days are generally really good. If you upgrade, for the street, steer clear of pads with high initial bite and too much grip (CarboTech XP9s and above, EBC reds etc...). Higher chance of locking up the tires. Brand, up to you. Are Performance Friction Carbon (PFC) metallics available for Fit? I liked those on the street.
SS lines do help. They do not expand w/ heat giving you more consistent braking, not just pedal feel. Also, they help to eliminate the pulsating of ABS. Not really needed if only doing daily driving.
Upgrading the brake fluid is fine and its pretty cheap. You will only need better fluid if you road race the car. Daily driving braking will not produce enough heat to cause the fluid to boil and become water. I agree with Motul and ATE, super duper fluids.
And i'm spent...