Hi! I have a 2008 Fit with 187,000 miles. Sadly, I am out of the extended warranty period for the EPS module replacement (see this Service Bulletin for more details: https://static.oemdtc.com/TSB/A14-058.pdf). I wanted to see if those of you who have correctly diagnosed this problem have symptoms that are consistent with mine. If so, I'll likely buy a used EPS module ($200 on ebay) and a Honda Diagnostics System ($100 or so on ebay) to complete the repair.

Here are my symptoms: Occasionally (I think mainly when it's hot outside), the power steering light will stay illuminated when I turn the car on, and I will have no power steering. I can, of course, still steer (my wife says the wheel is "locked up," but it definitely isn't). I have found that if I turn on my brights and, for good measure, the A/C after waiting ~5 seconds from the engine starting, the light goes off and my power steering returns. If I don't do this maneuver, then the power steering often kicks back on after the car shifts into second gear. Very rarely, the power steering will stay out all day, and even when I turn the brights & A/C on, it won't come back.

I've never seen anyone describe this workaround of turning on the brights & A/C, so maybe my problem is something other than the faulty EPS module described in the Service Bulletin. Any thoughts?

One last idea: In my research today, I came across someone who had a similar problem (except that it had more violent kickbacks of the wheel), and it turned out to be a corroded/dirty connection. He cleaned it, and it worked again. I think I'll try that in the meantime.

Thanks!

 

Which connector was corroded? I have the same issue.

-- matt

 

3 wire connector on PS motor (under brake booster?)

 

I realize this is an old thread but it's a continuing problem so maybe this will help someone. I have a 2007 Fit Sport M/T with 265,000 miles. Recently the electric power steering has been going out intermittently. It started a couple months ago and is getting more frequent. Turning on headlights or A/C on doesn't have any effect. Turning the car off and waiting a minute works sometimes but not always. Sometimes power steering returns after driving a short distance, sometimes it remains off for an entire trip. Very frustrating. When the car is started, it's a roll of the dice whether or not we have power steering. In a tight parking space it steers like a lumberwagon without PS. From all the research i've done on FitFreak and other places on the Web, it sounds like the EPS module is failing. Honda dealer price is $1355! I bought a used one with exact same part # as mine on eBay for $240 and will see if I can replace it myself. The underdash fuse panel is completely in the way. I will try to remove it with battery disconnected and wiggle it out of the way enough to remove the four nuts holding the EPS module in. It's going to be a difficult job because things are really tight in that area.

 

Any luck, @KwazyKwaig ?

 

Regarding the issue of EPS module failure, there is a Honda Service Bulletin #14-058 Sept. 23, 2014 on this problem. They say Honda is extending the original factory warranty on the EPS module for 10 years or 150,000 miles. Of course that didn't help me in 2024. Further research on the DTC codes 61-04 and 32-09 revealed that this same problem happened on some other Honda and Acura models. Wouldn't you know, Honda and Acura extended the warranty to 15 years and unlimited miles. But the cheap son of a guns weren't so nice with the Fit, sigh! My previous post was right on. Replacing the EPS module is the WORST/HARDEST/MOST FRUSTRATING job I've done in my over 60 years working on cars. More challenging than an engine or transmission rebuild. You will exhaust your four letter word vocabulary. Reasons:
1) Laying on your right rib cage across the threshold ain't fun at my advanced age and prob. isn't fun at any age including teens! Foam rubber mat on threshold helps.
2) Visibility up under the dash is poor, I suggest an LED headlamp so both hands are free.
3) You need to remove the underdash fuse panel to push it to the left and get it out of the way of the fasteners holding the EPS unit to firewall. To do this, you must disconnect MANY connectors and there are multuple types each of which have their own tricks to disconnect. A jeweler's flat screwdriver helps release the plastic tangs. I numbered the connectors to be sure to reconnect properly, probably overkill.
4) My 2007 Fit is manual tranny. I had to remove the clutch pedal assembly to gain access to the EPS module. The nut on the upper left can't be seen even with an inspection mirror. You'll need a socket on a short extension and plenty of patience with feeling your way around. Unplug two electrical connectors for the clutch switches.and remove the four nuts holding clutch pedal ass'y to firewall. Remove the clip for the rod which pushes on the master cylinder. Remove assembly.
5) Remove four nuts to remove EPS unit. You can't see them all and they will test your patience. Pull unit down so you have room to unplug the four electrical harnesses from the EPS. Inspect for clean connectors. Mine were good. Replace with used unit cost about $240 eBay. Honda dealer price $1355 ouch. Snap in all four connectors securely.
6) Reattach module. Getting the nuts back on is a real trial for your patience. This whole job took me two full days.
7) Reattach all fuse connectors and reinstall fuse panel. Reinstall clutch pedal assembly.
8) I didn't do anything with a code reader OBDII tool to adjust the steering center because a test drive revealed the steering worked normally. Factory manual covers this.
9) This job could relegate your car to the scrap yard if you have to pay for someone to do the work, especially at a dealer. I don't think a skilled Honda mechanic could do this in less than 6 hours. At the labor rates for most dealers, that's more than the value of the car. I would never tackle this job again. Nearly cost my sanity.

 

Good to know that it worked! And what a person is in for if you need to do it.
It might be worth while removing the driver's seat, then you could lay in there on your back. Doesn't take long to take the seat out.

 

I agree not hard to remove seat, but think of the crazy multiplane contours of the floor under driver's seat and footwell. My body would still be unhappy. Maybe several thicknesses of carpet underlay foam would help? I'm just glad this reliable old girl is back in service. Just got back from 14 hour drive to and from a ski trip to Mt. Tremblant, Quebec and she didn't miss a beat knock on woodl Luv this car, she even allowed us a stop at the duty free for some Glenfiddich on return to USA. Been our daily driver for 14 years.. Unbelievable economical transport over those years. Still delivering one quart of Mobil 1 5W-20 consumption per 6000 miles and usually gets about 36-37mpg on highway.

 

Whew, sounds like a terrible job. Thanks for the reply though.

I'm glad I didn't have to do it. My wife got the light and power steering failure after I'd been working on the car. I realized I hadn't tightened the negative battery terminal after having it off, slapped my forehead and put it back in service. But then it did it again a couple days later. I was getting worried then as it obviously wasn't loose anymore, but decided it was just too big a coincidence. Suspecting it driving around loose might have built up some who-knows-what on the terminal from arcing, I took the terminal off the battery again and cleaned it well, then put it back together. No problems since. We love ours too, had it 11 years and it's been reliable as a rock with great economy.