My 2008 Honda Fit Sport just rolled over 100,000 miles last weekend. I have a few questions for everyone about my maintenance plans.

1. I plan to adjust the valves. How difficult is this? I have adjusted valves and done head gasket jobs on my previous 1992 Volvo 240. I also adjusted the valves on my daughter's 2001 Honda CR-V. Is the valve adjustment pretty straightworward?

2. I am used to changing timing belts and water pumps. However, this Fit has a timing chain. Do I just wait for the water pump to fail before changing the water pump? Also, how difficult is this job?

3. If the water pump should be changed, I'll change the coolant and serpentine belt as well.

Car is currently running perfect. Only problem is the warning light for the tire air pressure monitoring system.

Thanks for everyone's thoughts.

 

Congrat's on hitting 100k!

My suggestions are below...

 

GAFIT, thanks for the great reply.

 

Will add some recommendations

1. I plan to adjust the valves. How difficult is this? I have adjusted valves and done head gasket jobs on my previous 1992 Volvo 240. I also adjusted the valves on my daughter's 2001 Honda CR-V. Is the valve adjustment pretty straightworward?
Assuming you have an instruction which tells you that the engine must be below 35 degrees C while doing this procedure and the number one cylinder is the one closest to the timing chain,
Here is the list of tips:
1) turn the right front wheel to the right; this will allow better access to the crank bolt
2) the engine requires minimum effort to rotate; the spark plugs can stay in place unless you plan to change them. The lower intake stays on the engine. I removed plenum part only, while leaving throttle body in place connected to the coolant lines
3) at this mileage /age many rubber items can go bad So get the valve cover gasket (gasket only, grommets are not contacting oil and will not cause oil leak; invest in factory gasket, Felpro brand I used had a tab molded in opposite way

Part number is clear enough
Additional items: plenum gasket, (2 required) and throttle body gasket (sold as fuel injection gasket or even carburetor base gasket); Beck-Arnley is the best brand in terms of fit; also grommet and PCV fresh air hose

Air cleaner grommet (upper right) and fresh air hose (partially obscured by "harness bracket" text) may need replacement
4) if possible pull the Intake Air Temperature Sensor out of the air cleaner housing instead of disconnecting from the wire , otherwise be prepared to clear the code.
5) use flat 3/16" wide screwdriver with "thick" blade edge to prevent damage to the set screws, also use 10 mm box offset wrench and "bent" feeler gauge set.

2. I am used to changing timing belts and water pumps. However, this Fit has a timing chain. Do I just wait for the water pump to fail before changing the water pump? Also, how difficult is this job?
Water pump bearing showed no play on the car with 154k; coolant had to be replaced at after 10 years back in 2018

3. If the water pump should be changed, I'll change the coolant and serpentine belt as well.
Use genuine serpentine belt; it has cross hatch back which prevent scratches on the rollers and minimizes glazing and squeal compared to after market smooth back belts; the idler roller bearing may need replacement as well. Napa sells replacement bearing (SKF bearing is the best)

 

4 Valve adjustments and a cam swap that required full disassembly and still haven't used a single gasket on our Fit. Zero leaks. We're lucky though and live in the South where everything stays clean and the seals aren't subjected to extreme temps.

I choose to remove the coolant lines from the throttle body and leave it connected to the intake. I remove the air box lid all the way to the upper intake/lower intake connection as one large assembly. The coolant lines can be a pain though so I could understand either method.

Honda was fantastic with these motors. Every gasket is reusable except the head gasket. All others are very high quality. Ours is still drum tight with zero seepage at near 200k miles.

I do have a full gasket set plus some duplicates for the car though. Just keep looking at them when I take it apart and see no reason to change. They all still look like new and are sealing tight.

 

Thanks to both of you for the great responses. I'll let you guys know how it goes. I'll likely do the job sometime in December or January.