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Seeking advice on proceeding with repairs for 2008 automatic Fit or other options

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  #1  
Old 01-02-2021, 04:32 PM
Daniel Dahl's Avatar
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Seeking advice on proceeding with repairs for 2008 automatic Fit or other options

For about 18 months or so my fit (2008, automatic, base model, 140/87k (km/mi)) has been idling poorly on startup and will stall or nearly stall once in gear. I usually just let it warm up until the idling is smoother and then it won’t stall. Once I’m driving there is hard and delayed shifting. About a year ago the CEL read a misfiring #3 cylinder so the spark plugs and #3 coil pack were replaced. These symptoms have become more noticeable in the last few months, with the weather getting colder, and so recently the CEL came on again.

So a little over a week ago, I took the car to the auto-shop and they performed a thorough diagnostic, same CEL reading as before, #3 cylinder misfire—with the relatively new coil pack, so #2 and #3 coil packs were swapped. Changed the oil, inspected the car, and gave me a quote for recommended services after the CEL comes back on again.

They’re recommending valve clearance adjustment and a rocker arm oil pressure switch.

These 3 codes were read: P0113 IAT sensor circuit high voltage, P2647 Rocker arm oil control system A Bank 1 stock on/ Switch circuit high voltage, and P0847 Transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) circuit low.

As predicted, symptoms remain and the CEL is on again about a week later. I haven’t taken the car back to the shop just yet. Probably will schedule something next week. The recommendation from before is that if the CEL is reading #3 cylinder misfire again then they should perform a valve adjustment.

The shop also gave me some information about a TRANS code “HARD or Delayed shifting with A/T DTC P0847.” “A stuck-on 3rd clutch pressure switch could be the culprit. Check the onboard snapshot for those DTCs. Then, look at the 3rd Pressure Switch value in the Data List. If it reads On(closed) at idle or at a stop, drain the ATF through a strainer and check for debris. IF you don’t find any, replace the switch. If you do, replace the transmission.”

So I think the plan is to check out the transmission first, as described above, and see what happens. That way if the transmission is bunk then there’s no point in doing the valve adjustment and rocker arm oil pressure switch, right? I’m having doubts about how much I want to spend on fixing this car. Worst case scenario: If the transmission has to be replaced…I think it’s too expensive. Sounds like it’ll be over 1k or so.

Anyway, I would be interested to hear any input on similar experiences or advice of any kind. How far would you be willing to go getting this fixed? Would a car in this state be sellable to the right person? Or is it just fit for the scrapyard (pun intended)? Cheers
 

Last edited by Daniel Dahl; 01-04-2021 at 01:56 PM.
  #2  
Old 01-04-2021, 11:14 AM
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How many miles are on this car?
 
  #3  
Old 01-04-2021, 01:40 PM
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As asked above, how many miles? Specifically, how many miles since the last valve adjustment?

Valve adjustments are NOT repairs. It is a required maintenance item that many just ignore.
 
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Old 01-04-2021, 02:01 PM
Daniel Dahl's Avatar
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Thanks, I updated the post. 140/87k (km/mi). Unsure if there ever was a valve adjustment. I'm the 3rd owner. I've put about 18k miles on it myself. I did inherit paperwork for some of the fixes, so I'll see what I can find.
 
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Old 01-04-2021, 02:22 PM
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The Maintenance Minder system triggers the code for valve adjustment at around 60k miles on the GD Fit. If that has not been done, start with that as far as the motor.

I'm betting the pressure switch will fix the transmission.

In general, these cars are extremely reliable if properly maintained. They generally don't need anything beyond fluid changes, spark plugs, and valve adjustments.

Sadly, I'm guessing that your Fit did not have transmission fluid changes, spark plugs, or a valve adjustment.

If you replace the plugs or coils, make sure to only use NGK or Denso Iridium plugs and only Denso or Hitachi coils.

Also, many people jump to replacing coils on these cars as a bandaid. Our coils have almost 200k miles on them and are going strong. Key is that they've had properly gapped fresh spark plugs and a motor with valves adjusted properly.
 
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