Rocker arm oil pressure switch replacement...
#1
Rocker arm oil pressure switch replacement...
i just had my CEL come on this morning and the car is hitting the rev limiter at about 4k. car was also starting to stall when cold and was about to take it in for a valve adjustment. now this. car has 109k miles and started the bogging down this morning. did search and all points to rocker arm oil pressure switch like most people have experienced. is there a write up on how to replace the rocker arm oil pressure switch??? where is it located, and how to replace it would be appreciated...
car is completely stock. no mods, no nothing. oil level is correct.
car is completely stock. no mods, no nothing. oil level is correct.
#3
Mine has pulled that crap on me twice.
From what I read, they tend to go off when it is cold outside. I waited till the car was warmed up and then reset the ECU. I'll need to replace that sensor whan I have some spare $.
It's right up front next to the plastic intake cover, correct?
From what I read, they tend to go off when it is cold outside. I waited till the car was warmed up and then reset the ECU. I'll need to replace that sensor whan I have some spare $.
It's right up front next to the plastic intake cover, correct?
#4
Mine has pulled that crap on me twice.
From what I read, they tend to go off when it is cold outside. I waited till the car was warmed up and then reset the ECU. I'll need to replace that sensor whan I have some spare $.
It's right up front next to the plastic intake cover, correct?
From what I read, they tend to go off when it is cold outside. I waited till the car was warmed up and then reset the ECU. I'll need to replace that sensor whan I have some spare $.
It's right up front next to the plastic intake cover, correct?
#6
Well, mine finally tripped at 98,000mi. Had the code read, reset and than it tripped again the next day. At least I could eventually get up to 75 on the fwy... got the part and then discovered that I didn't have a deep enough socket to remove the old sensor. A few minutes to Sears for a new socket, and then an easy one minute replacement. Test drive showed that all was well, but the CEL wouldn't go out. My Hyundai new product developer neighbor said it might take 10 key resets, but that didn't work. After a 20 mile drive to work the next day, it was still on, but then I restarted it and the light went out. Yeah!
#7
Well, mine finally tripped at 98,000mi. Had the code read, reset and than it tripped again the next day. At least I could eventually get up to 75 on the fwy... got the part and then discovered that I didn't have a deep enough socket to remove the old sensor. A few minutes to Sears for a new socket, and then an easy one minute replacement. Test drive showed that all was well, but the CEL wouldn't go out. My Hyundai new product developer neighbor said it might take 10 key resets, but that didn't work. After a 20 mile drive to work the next day, it was still on, but then I restarted it and the light went out. Yeah!
Glad to hear it.
You needed a longer socket or an extension for your socket wrench? Just wondering.
#9
Not an extension-it's right on the front of the engine... A deep socket to fit over the sensor part of the bolt. You can't get a wrench on it, and the biggest socket that I had (or any of my neighbors had) was not deep enough to clear and reach the bottom. I think it needed a 22mm deep socket.
#11
So I thought I had fixed. I took it in to have a valve adjustment and that took care of the stalling. But check fuel cap came on, went away for a day and now back to the rev limiter at 4k rpm. Gonna have to read the code. Will follow up.
#12
Is it an issue driving fit in this condition?
Not an extension-it's right on the front of the engine... A deep socket to fit over the sensor part of the bolt. You can't get a wrench on it, and the biggest socket that I had (or any of my neighbors had) was not deep enough to clear and reach the bottom. I think it needed a 22mm deep socket.
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