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2007 Fit Crank Sensor Keeps Going Bad

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Old Sep 17, 2021 | 08:47 AM
  #1  
Sean McKenzie-Mardelli's Avatar
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2007 Fit Crank Sensor Keeps Going Bad

Hey all, I just got back from my regular garage for the 3rd time regarding the same problem and this time he said he simply can't figure out what's going on and doesn't want me to waste money by continuously replacing the same part without addressing the root cause. He advised me to try gaining some insight from forums and/or bring it to the dealership for a diagnostic. It seems as though something is causing my crank sensor to go bad repeatedly. Each time I replace it, the car works well for some time and then the sensor goes bad again.

About 4 months ago, the car start exhibiting 2 symptoms concurrently. These symptoms will always start intermittently while driving and after about 30 min of driving, they happen consistently:

1) Inability to exceed 3000RPM. Once I hit 3000RPM, any attempt to give it more gas will just make the car stutter and I won't get any extra acceleration. If I want to speed up after hitting that RPM, I need to upshift. This also means the car can't go faster than 90km/h (55-56mph) because that's when I hit 3000RPM in 5th gear,
2) When I depress the clutch or otherwise shift into neutral, the engine stalls. Sometimes it'll even stall when I'm rolling at high speed if I depress the clutch and don't shift quickly enough. After stalling, I can start the car again easily by turning the key.

These symptoms never occur within the first 5 min of the first drive of the day. They only start once the engine has warmed up. I'll try to take a video and post it here soon.

When this started happening, I brought it to my mechanic and the code said crank sensor fault so he replaced that. Then the car worked fine for 2-3 days until the same problems started happening again. Same code so he replaced the crank sensor again (didn't charge me for it, since we figured the new crank sensor must be a lemon). Then the car worked perfectly well for 5000km (~3000mi) until a few days ago when the problem returned. We haven't even bothered checking the code this time because of the highly specific nature of the symptoms being exactly the same as the previous times.

Most of the explanations I can find online regarding other issues that can cause a crank sensor to fail seem inconsistent with the fact that the most recent replacement bought the car so much time & distance.

Anyone have any ideas?
 

Last edited by Sean McKenzie-Mardelli; Sep 17, 2021 at 09:46 AM. Reason: Add more details
Old Sep 20, 2021 | 03:31 PM
  #2  
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What was the actual code? Did your mechanic actually test the sensor, or, better yet, scope the output of the sensor while revving the engine to see if there was interference from nearby wiring?
 
Old Sep 21, 2021 | 05:08 PM
  #3  
Sean McKenzie-Mardelli's Avatar
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He didn't tell me those specifics. The nature of the issue has changed from the details mentioned in my earlier post. It's now very random. Sudden and short-lived hiccups/shakes when driving, followed by a stall once revs are low. Seems to be independent from the clutch and totally dependent on revs. The issue is temporarily remedied by turning off the engine and starting it again several times in a row. I've been finding myself turning off the engine while driving and then just bump-starting (dumping the clutch with the key set to position II) while in 2nd or 3rd gear, testing an aggressive acceleration and if problem recurs, then I just restart the engine and eventually it'll run just fine for hours. I just did a scan with my Bluetooth OBD and saw crank sensor again. But as explained in the original post, something keeps causing that sensor to need replacing repeatedly.
 
Old Sep 24, 2021 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean McKenzie-Mardelli
He didn't tell me those specifics. The nature of the issue has changed from the details mentioned in my earlier post. It's now very random. Sudden and short-lived hiccups/shakes when driving, followed by a stall once revs are low. Seems to be independent from the clutch and totally dependent on revs. The issue is temporarily remedied by turning off the engine and starting it again several times in a row. I've been finding myself turning off the engine while driving and then just bump-starting (dumping the clutch with the key set to position II) while in 2nd or 3rd gear, testing an aggressive acceleration and if problem recurs, then I just restart the engine and eventually it'll run just fine for hours. I just did a scan with my Bluetooth OBD and saw crank sensor again. But as explained in the original post, something keeps causing that sensor to need replacing repeatedly.
Not sure how useful it will be, but the SM troubleshooting for P0335 (see attachment) has a lot of "check the wires, check the connectors" type stuff, both at the sensor side and at the ECM side. It's a bitch to track down broken wires or intermittent connectors, but I'd believe a wiring issue over multiple crank sensors going bad.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2021 | 04:04 PM
  #5  
Sean McKenzie-Mardelli's Avatar
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Originally Posted by hill8570
Not sure how useful it will be, but the SM troubleshooting for P0335 (see attachment) has a lot of "check the wires, check the connectors" type stuff, both at the sensor side and at the ECM side. It's a bitch to track down broken wires or intermittent connectors, but I'd believe a wiring issue over multiple crank sensors going bad.
thanks! I’ll try to follow those steps when I have some time and will report back
 
Old May 5, 2023 | 03:47 PM
  #6  
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From: San Antonio
hi!

having the same problems and google lead me back to this thread

Any updates? did you solve it?
 
Old May 12, 2023 | 06:35 PM
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Old Nov 25, 2024 | 01:07 AM
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Thanks @aStrangeDay , that's looks like a great list of investigation they did on this issue. Having picked up my new (to me, it's a 2006) Jazz and drove it 1800 km home I've found I have this issue. Hummed along nicely at whatever speed but got really jerky misfire whenever I asked it to accelerate a bit and my OBD reader tells me crankshaft sensor although I don't get a check engine light. Looks like in your link that moving the crank sensor wires out of the harness away from the ignition wires is the proper solve. Possibly indicates need to replace at least coilpack 1 on the exhaust side (although if you need to do one it's probably worth doing them all).

I'm going to start by replacing all the spark plugs, then if I keep having the issue I'll look into pulling the crankshaft sensor wires out of the loom and replacing exhaust side coilpacks. Thanks again dude/dudette!

Edit for update: I replaced the sparkplugs and the coilpack on cylinder one exhaust-side and it's purring along. Winning! The plugs on the intake-side were a different make and looked newer so I'd say it's a while since the exhaust-side ones were done.
 

Last edited by OzMando; Nov 27, 2024 at 03:44 AM. Reason: update
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