Been getting little stuff done here and there but mostly just parts piling until I have time to do some major work.

Installed front and rear set of Weathertech window visors, I like them a lot better than the Mugen ones.
No blind spot and I just enjoy the simple look better than how busy looking the Mugen ones are.




Also filled her up and cleared the trip odometer to do a rough MPG calculation.
I've put well over 200 miles on the car this last week alone and it looks like I'm getting about 40mpg without effort which is pretty awesome.
I'll do a couple tanks full and post results when I have them.




I've got a heap of parts ready to make their way onto the car, mostly suspension and drive line related components.

I had a little bit of time to knock out some new rear wheel bearings with extended ARP studs, 10mm spacers, and extended open end lug nuts.



Fitment of rear wheel pre spacer




Fitment post 10mm spacer




The change is pretty minimal and hard to capture with a camera but in person it looks a lot less sunk and makes the car look a lot better.

Wheel fitment is less aggressive than the Advans so it doesn't rub on hard cornering while still looking decently aggressive.

Next up will be a new set of coilovers, front wheel bearings with extended ARP studs, transmission output shaft seals, dial in ride height, and alignment.

Hoping to have this all done within the next few weeks and be able to do some open track days as the weather breaks.

I've also been contemplating what my brake setup will be.
After having the car on the highway doing about 80mph, the brake package leaves a lot be desired.
I've already got rear disc conversion brackets and I'm trying to decide if I'll be going standard Integra size rears and better pad compound all around with good fluid, or go all out and do the Mini/ITR front and EP3 rear like I have on my EK.
I love the feel of the brakes on my EK, so I'm kinda leaning to go that route (plus having swappable consumables between cars would be an added bonus).

 

For whatever it's worth, we did the Mini/ITR front with EP3 rear and I'm happy with the results. Also used an Accord master cylinder that bolts in, but has a larger piston.

My only complaint with the Mini/ITR set up is that a lot of wheels don't clear the caliper. That would be fine if it were some awesome big brake set up, but it's still a pretty basic setup so it sucks loosing the ability to run the stock wheels. If I went back in time, I'd just go straight to Wilwood front and EP3 rear.

 

All my wheels clear the ITR fronts so I can swap them between my cars (it's a big reason why I only own 16" wheels) so that's not really an issue.

Which year/model Accord did the master come out of?
Did you have to do anything with the brake lines or booster?
How is the pedal feel?

 

Nice on the wheels!

Master was from a 1998 4 cylinder w/abs Accord. I used part #132871 from Cardone, but there's really no reason to buy one with the reservoir because you'll need to use your Fit reservoir. It uses a regular double flare like most cars, but our Fit's are the European style flare. I cut and re-flared the lines after trying adapters that leaked.
I didn't do anything with the booster. I don't know of a larger booster that will bolt in. Pedal feel is what I would call useable, but not great. Using Stoptech sport pads on EBC USR rotors. I'll try a more aggressive pad next time.
Running Fastbrakes braided lines and their parking brake cable adapter.

 

I find it insane how you're getting such good mpg.
I'm still averaging 26-27 mpg and I've removed the rear seats among other small mods for weight reduction.

 

So the replacement master is 1" just like the ITR/CTR one in my EK.
I wonder how much of that pedal feel is due to firewall flex, adding a master cylinder stopper to my EK made a world of difference.

 

It's probably because I did a lot of highway driving (basically drove across the state and back) but now that I've been doing some more driving around town I don't think my average will be as high.
I think it may end up being somewhere in the mid 30s.

 

I need to have a valve adjustment done and hope that's the main issue with lower mpg since I've done just about everything else I've read about which could lead to worse fuel economy.
Driving spirited in city traffic doesn't help, but it will never get close to my old 2012 Fit Sport (RIP) mpg.

 

I was going to say that driving in winter is always worse for MPG but then noticed that you're in Florida lol.

The best I ever managed was about 45mpg after a long 90km/h trip. Maybe could've done better with properly inflated low rolling resistance tires instread of mystery winter stuff I had on.

But of course by far the biggest difference is where and how you drive. With more city miles I'm seeing like 30-35. 26-27 is pretty bad but probably doable if there's more traffic and you drive even faster. I'd just try to measure it on a longer trip and see what's up.

 

I know the mpg suffers because of how I drive the slow car fast.
I had a few new parts installed this week too, but I doubt it will change much overall.
The handling is WAY better now though, so I'm pleased!

 

Still getting some minor things done here and there but also spent last weekend doing a lot of suspension work on the car.


I got a good deal on a Hybrid Racing shifter locally, so I went ahead and picked it up and installed it.




With the MTec shifter spring the Hybrid shifter feels too stiff, and it also seems too short.

It is currently on the harder of the two shift springs and on the shorter of the two settings, so I have to take it apart and change to the softer spring and longer throw.

It's difficult to tell which gear the car is in and I'm not super fond of that, I've misshifted a couple times already and I want something a little more defined.

I honestly loved the way that the stock shifter assembly with the Skunk2 short shifter adapter and solid base bushings felt, but the ball of the shifter had a decent amount of slop and that bothered me.

If I can figure out a way to get rid of the slop in the stock shifter assembly, I think I'll go back to it.

 

And also please let us know I was adjusting the handbrake and checked out my shifter as well. It has a bit of play in any gear, it's not the worst and I have no issue finding gears but it'd be much nicer if it didn't bounce around like this. Unfortunately it seems that Honda only has it as one assembly and who knows how sloppy an ebay one would be.

https://i.imgur.com/1DfvUKa.mp4

 

I'm thinking some sort of small shim to take up the play may work nicely.

I've got a stock GD and stock GE shifter to play with.

 

I have a ton of updating to do on here, been very busy.

To pick up where I left off, I got new coilovers on the car.

After much deliberation, I decided on a set of Ksport streets.
The spring rates are soft enough to be comfortable and the dampening adjustment will allow me to tighten up a bit when I feel the need to.







While I was in there, I decided to remove both axles and replace both axle seals with new OEM ones from the dealer since one of them had a small leak.




I also decided not to connect the front sway bar back up after talking to a handful of people, including the TCS guys, about setups on this chassis.

Set ride height, did a quick eyeball alignment and test drive, and the car is instantly 1000% better.

If anyone is interested, the Five8 coils are up for grabs (I really need to make a FS post with all the bits I have)




While I had the car up and apart, I installed a set of Powerstop braided brake lines (more on this later)

Weather started to get a little nicer, car for a wash, and it's finally starting to come together the way I envisioned.




I had a small exhaust leak that started to get progressively worse until it was absolutely unbearable.

​​​​​​It turned out to be the donut gasket at the header collector, it was very much past due.




After that, I started focusing on getting the car ready for some track time.

I bought entry to a track day in late April and another in late May.

First up was new IK22 plugs, a valve lash adjustment, new valve cover gasket, and this beautiful new Seeker oil cap thanks to USDM




The IK22s came gapped real tight, they were .028 which seemed too tight to me so I regapped them to .035 and threw them in.

The engine is surprisingly clean inside, so that made me feel good about my plans to beat the piss out of the car.




I also bought a FlashPro off a member on here and set up a dyno appointment, which had it's own sets of ups and downs.

​​​​​​​I'll update on the journey and results on the next post.

 

😉

I hope your appointment goes well!

As for the brake lines you mentioned, I've been wanting to upgrade mine, so I'm looking forward to your update.

 

In case his didn't go well, I'll share this with you... Fastbrake's has direct bolt in lines that are quick and easy.

 

That engine looks clean as hell for the mileage! Was the valve job a pain in the ass? I bought the valve cover and spark plugs to do it on mine since I have no records of it being done. But now it's warm enough to do it outside and I'm too lazy to get started since it seems to run perfectly fine. Plus the 8 plugs give me a bit of anxiety in case they're stuck or break or something because PO overtightened them.

 

Appointment went well, but there were some unrelated ups and downs that I'll get into soon.

I have some of those as well, not really impressed considering the price point.

Adjustment is really easy on this car, just make sure the engine is cold.
What 8 plugs are you talking about?

 

Good to know!
I have the L13A with dual spark ignition so there are 8 spark plugs / coils, though otherwise as far as I understand they're are pretty similar engines.

 

I like that they have the correct adapter block for the front that makes it like an OEM fitment. To me, that makes theirs worth the $$$. Not sure if others have that OEM like fitment?