I feel like I’m crazy my car died out wouldn’t start tried later and it worked tried again no gas it’s weird because the fuel pump primes every time the relay clicks a few times today I’ve repeated the process three times of getting it to start and it will stay running until I shut the car of then immediately try to restart it stumbles using the remaining gas in the lines I’m assuming then won’t start what could cause it to work once then not again for random amount of time it’s not the key immobilized the light always goes off it’s like the ecu is cutting the fuel off I can’t smell any gas when cranking and it always starts on starting fluid and I have researched to those who want to say use search function most don’t say what fixed their problem the fuel pump price is insane to just throw parts at this problem. I ended up putting in a new battery and I seemed like it fixed it. I drive it around a few times let it run started and stopped a few times revved it then I took it to advance to have the battery and alternator tested everything seemed fine even my dash lights don’t flicker anymore which I though was the alternator. Later I was driving for five minutes across town on me and it died out I started it back up a few minutes later and hurried home. What the heck is wrong with this thing i doesn’t make sense except maybe the ecu is fucked and reset when I had the battery out

 

I am in a similar situation with my 2008. It had died on me in traffic so I got a new(to me) truck. Replaced alternator and belt a couple of months back. Also used lead terminal shims so the battery terminals would fit better. Got those on amazon. So I drove to work one day. The next day the fuel pump died on me on the way to work, so I had to walk home 1.4 miles. Fortunately I had my truck to get to work. So fuel pump was replaced, with about the cheapest one on amazon because I was broke. I just replaced the pump and put it in the old mechanism, that may have been a mistake. After I replaced it I got misfires, so in order I replaced the sparkplugs and coil packs, then the O2 sensors, and then adjusted the valves. It does run smoother now for the most part, but still has the hot start issue and was showing some misfires in driving(p300, p301, and p304). Today I replaced the r11 relay,PGM-FI Main No.1. I believe that is an ry729 relay. Hot start issue is still present. I am currently debating my next step. I am thinking of either cleaning the fuel injectors or ordering the complete fuel pump mechanism from oreillys and the relay. I am going to see if it will start before I leave for work but I do not trust it to drive anywhere right now.

 

Important note:
This car requires outstanding master mechanic skills to repair due to flimsy and fast tracking design.Almost very Fit on the junk yard has loose or leaking spark plugs and burned coils as the result; use only Denso or Hitachi or Honda coils and owner's manual specified plugs, install them WITHOUT anti seize and hand tighten them to crush the plug gasket. DO NOT REUSE PLUGS once removed!
The issue in the thread
can be anything but here is what to do if gas pump is suspected:
a) if engine is running check the pump for whining noise at idle and at 3000 rpms
this should be done with console and cover removed and top pump housing is exposed
feel the power wires (two fatter ones) if they are very warm or hot to touch(also check for burned connection)
b) using OBD2 life data scanner to check for increased fuel trim during acceleration (should be 6 to 10 but 20 is definitely not enough gas)
c) with engine off for 8 to 12 hours,test the fuel line for pressure loss (leaking regulator)
remove pressure line and attach bulb syringe or plunger pump the pump housing outlet using 1/4" id Tygon tube (hand vacuum/ pressure pump is ideal) there should be no flow with pressure applied. Otherewise the fuel leaks back to the tank
Whining noise at part a) indicates restricted (choked inlet)
IF pump is dead (no sound)
Connect 12volt light bulb to the feed wires the light should be on for 2 seconds after ignition is turned on if not it's relay/pcm issue as well as a bad pump negative wire to ground connection!
test the pump motor for continuity if no continuity the pump is bad and needs to be replaced. 9 volt battery with test light in series can give more accurate results then digital voltmeter Aftermarket parts suck; I rather use used genuine part than a new aftermarket POS