First I have to admit that poplar "clean and lube" repair for the starter work only if there's evidently weak solenoid spring plunger and rusted starter pinion [gear] shaft:


Rust and contamination on the pinion shaft
Also, the aftermarket Ultima solenoid has a brass sleeve (but non lubricated, like in OEM ) not nylon sleeve (MY BAD!)
After watching this video many times I noticed that the noise is taking place when solenoid is STILL energized, NOT when key is released to RUN:
In this case the unlucky suspect is one way clutch (part of the "bendix assembly" which includes pinion gear and one way clutch) If you hold the key in start position for 2 seconds after cold engine start (2nd start is the best) you could hear some noise associated with overrunning clutch operation.
If it sticking (*fails to freewheel) the loud after start noise will be emitted

 

Mine made that noise every morning at first start up of the day.
I removed the starter, lubed it, and no more noise for a year, then it began again.
Someday I will replace the starter, but not worried about it.

 

Unless you are buying starter from the dealer, you may end up with same noise
Rebuilt starters from chain stores is painted junk with new brushes and cheap solenoid in a nice box
Someday it may wear teeth on the ring gear which is welded to torque converter on 5 speed auto cars.
I really missed huge direct drive starter on my 79 Supra that lasted the lifetime of the car!

 

Thanks for all your effort on this, and in particular for the video of the startup sound. I was able to compare that to the sound in my own car and it is clearly the same sound.

A question: It seems like the worst case scenario if I don't do anything about it is that one day the starter will simply refuse to start. Am I correct in this / have you encountered any other permanent damage to other, non-starter parts in your research? I'm just trying to determine how urgently I need to take action. The car is new to me, so I don't know how long it has been doing this, but I first noticed it when it got near/below freezing where I live.

PS: I tried your suggestion to "pump" the ignition a bit before actually starting to see if that would warm up the solenoid, but I still got the same sound.

 

Worst case, Completely jammed overrunning clutch will force pinion gear out of the mesh (against the force of the solenoid coil); this will grind the edges of the pinion and/or ring gear teeth the starter will begin to grind during the engagement. For a/t car it means new torque converter (the rig gear is welded to it)
The chain store brand rebuild starters often reuse the pinion gear and one way clutch.
High end reman starters use new part.

 

At around 145K the noise started on cold mornings. I removed the starter and took it to a local electrical shop that has done my work for years. He cleaned and lubed it (no good brushes available), worked for about a month then same noise cold. I took it apart myself and did the suggested clean/lube, stretched spring etc.and same noise when I put it back in. Ordered a new starter from hondapartsnow.com and been good for last year. For the effort to install them I would suggest genuine Honda first time around. No problems last 10K miles.

 

The noise is originating from the sealed part, the overrunning clutch.
No cleaning or lube could fix that. Sometimes a wear of the pinion hear bushing can cause it to "tilt" and jam making the same noise.
Bottom line: post-1990 cars suck big time.
It's easy to rebuilt engine on

1972 Fiat 124

, then change starter on Fit

 

I watched the video: For me that noise goes away when I degrease the engine drive belt. So when I start it up in the morning, my belt slips a little. So it may not be the starter for some people.

 

How do you degrease the belt? What products do you use?

Thanks.

 

Super tech Engine degreaser from walmart.

 

Hey that's a $700 part, new, at the Hondapartsnow site. Would you consider a reman from Honda? Also looks like you can replace sub assembly. Has anyone tried replacing just Bendix clutch/gear assembly?

 

I did last year
Took the drive from Denso reman. starter on the junk yard
Will see how long it last.

 

The starter was replaced with a Honda reman unit from "hondapartsnow.com". As I recall it was around $250 + a $50 core charge which was refunded on return of the core. I have used them for many OEM parts I need for the last 3 years with no problems.

 

So you'd suggest Honda reman (about $270 and which is probably just a Denso reman.) with just a one year warranty versus an aftermarket reman or new starter ( about the same price from like autozone, etc.?) that has a lifetime warranty?
Today 02:31 PM

 

cirpill: In my 45 years of repairing vehicles the only "rebuilt" auto replacements I had luck with were "factory reman" units. A "lifetime warranty" with a smile only means you eat the labor and possibly the towing for as long as you participate in the game. I always tried to use OEM when it was possible. yrmv