Hello everyone. I am new here and here because my 07 fit sport 5 speed will not start. The car ran great, ran great the day that it stopped starting. I even drove it half a mile just ten minutes before it decided not to start anymore. I put the key and turn, everything lights up on the dash, dome light comes on good and strong, and no crank, no noise, it doesn't even try.

I've checked the battery, (new in February) which tested at 94%. I've cleaned the terminals and the clamps, took the battery out, put it back in several times since not starting.

I've checked every fuse and relay, all good.

I changed the starter, still no crank. (This is a weekend quest if you are not a mechanic. There are 3 bolts on the bottom of the intake manifold. Good luck getting your dipstick tube out.)

I changed the ignition switch on the left side of the key switch body in the steering console, still nothing. (eff that effing screw on the back of that switch, it is not easy to get to...)

I changed the clutch ignition switch, the one with the larger diameter threads and yellow wiring plug that lays horizontally and plunges inward when you put the clutch in, and still no crank.

I am going to change the other clutch pedal switch which I think is called the clutch position switch that is mostly vertical with the white wiring plug and smaller diameter threads that is plunged in when your foot is not on the clutch and hope that does it.

Besides banging my head against the wall, I can't think of anything else to try. Maybe replace the wire from the battery to the starter? Can the key switch body go bad? Darn things are like $700. That key has been turned ALOT, this car has 280k+ miles on it.

Can the key lose its memory? Or can the key reader go bad? Were the keys in 2007 smart like that? I have both OEM keys and they have lock/unlock/panic, I do not have the valet key.

Anyone have any ideas? Please help!!

 

I was in your same position when I just bought my car. I know that you said you have no crank, no noise. but have you checked if your fuel pump is working properly? You should hear some noise when you put your key into On position.

 

Hi sae.fit, and everyone else who has viewed this post,

Yes, there is a very low pitched humming noise for a few seconds when I put the key in and turn on accessories. Thank you so much for responding sae.fit!! Is it safe to assume that this means that the fuel pump is trying to send gas towards the front of the car? If something is wrong with the fuel pump would it cause a no crank, no starter noise, no engine noise type of situation? How do I check the fuel pump to see if it is working properly?

I changed the clutch position switch tonight and still nothing.....

What in the actual cuss is wrong with my baby?!?!?

 

Even with a dead fuel pump the battery and starter should still spin the engine. Not even the smallest clicking noise?

 

Hi Tecrun19,

No, no noise, it doesn't even try to turn.

 

Run a jump from the + battery to the solenoid trigger wire to rule out the starter.

 

That humming noise you have I think my car is having that same issue too. I read it somewhere that it is common on our vehicles and I forgot what part it was to resolve that issue.

 

So it turns out it was the starter!!! I took my intake manifold off so I could put a multi meter on the terminals, had 12.4 volts to the starter and conductivity to all grounds and everything else. So I took the new starter off and took it the parts store and did a bench test on it and it failed..... This store didn't have anymore, went to another nearby location that had one, put that one on the bench test and it failed!!! Went to a 3rd nearby location and got one, their bench tester was down, went back to location B and tested it 3 times and it passed all 3 times. Put that one on the car and it started!!! I am never buying a starter again without bench testing it before I leave the store. Thank you everyone for your time reading and responding to this.

 

Its not over yet!?!?!?! Car ran like normal for 2 days. On my way home today the seatbelt light comes on and starts beeping while my seat belt is on. Then the power steering light comes on and steering got tight. Then the ABS light comes on. Then I lost everything on the right circle of the dash, odometer, lights and fuel gauge. From this instance I am at a red light, just got off the highway and go a quarter mile to the barber shop, in there for an hour. I come out start the car everything works but the battery light is on in the left circle of the dash. I get back on the highway and everything is fine for about 2 miles, then all of the above happen again and then another mile later the entire dash goes dark, no tach, no speedometer, no fuel/odometer but car still running with no power steering. Any ideas ? Do I have a short somewhere or a really stiff old vacuum line break? Not sure if profanity is allowed on this forum but ... EFFFing what the EFF?!?!?!?!? I need all hands on deck from my fit crew! Where do I start from here? I feel like there is something simple that should be checked, or a fuse or relay that would cause this kind of chaos. Does the computer have Alzheimer's after changing the starter?

 

Sorry to hear about the experiences you are having and glad you are safe! Our vehicles are over 15+ years old so things like this will happen. Hmmmm, if your dash is going back on and off I would think it would have to be something to due with your electrical components - I would def take this to a local mechanic shop to see if they can diagnose this properly. (obv it's going to be more expensive but you are paying someone who specializes in vehicles)

 

I had a feeling the alternator died causing all the dash lights and steering problems and the battery dying. I took the alternator off and had it bench tested, it failed. I put a new one in it and it seems to be ok now. What luck though that the starter and the alternator would go bad at the same.... pretty bad luck! I think I contributed to the alternator problem or caused the alternator to go bad after having to change the starter twice. When I took the coolant line off of the EGR valve coolant dripped onto and into the alternator. The first time this happened I put a towel over it. DON'T do this. Wrap the alternator in plastic shrink wrap or put a ziplock bag on it and then cover it with a towel. When I finally got the good working starter in the car and tried starting, it started really rough and I had to crank it for like 10 minutes. When it finally fired up I was sitting in the car with the hood open and I heard a pop and saw a small puff of smoke come from where the alternator is.... I must have fried something in it, or it shorted it self. Highly unlikely that the starter and alternator would go bad at the same time. The alternator is MF to get in and out. There is nooo room between the ABS module, the cooling line, the radiator and fans, other lines etc. Once you get all the bolts and wires off you have find that magic angle. The bottom bolt is easier to get to if you take the plastic cover off the bottom of the car and use about 2 feet of ratchet extensions. There is enough room under the air filter box to get about 1/4 turn of the ratchet while laying under the car. None of the videos I watched show the person actually getting the alternator out after you get all the bolts and wires off. There is a lot of swearing and frustration and fighting with that coolant line to find the magic angle. I think what worked for me is point the pulley towards the passenger side strut tower and tip it so the bump outs on the body of the alternator are narrowest between the intake manifold and the coolant line. I also took the bolt off of the coolant line bracket to let it move more.