CEL O2Sensor code
CEL O2Sensor code
2007 Fit Sport Okay got my first CEL in 263 K miles. Autozone said O2 Sensor #1 and low battery voltage (11.49 VOLTS)
So where do i get a good quality O2 Sensor on line and do i need a special tool to remove replace it. Next it says the anti lock brake module is suspect, but no codes, should i just replace it too? Thanks
We got this after looking at new cars, we ordered it in december 2006, it arrived in march 2007. Been a bullet proof car and just keeps going
So where do i get a good quality O2 Sensor on line and do i need a special tool to remove replace it. Next it says the anti lock brake module is suspect, but no codes, should i just replace it too? Thanks
We got this after looking at new cars, we ordered it in december 2006, it arrived in march 2007. Been a bullet proof car and just keeps going
You didn’t say upstream or downstream. Upstream is Denso and downstream is NGK. You can buy off rock auto. I bought a o2 sensor socket. It has a slit in it to let the wire in. I recommend sticking with these OEM brands. I went Denso for downstream and regretted it because it didn’t have much of the shielding of the NGK. Ended up cutting of the shielding and transferring it to the Denso part (and it worked great).
the rear (downstream) sensor is super easy but the front can’t be a real dog. I couldn’t for the life of me get the stupid plastic clip off of the metal tab because the tab was a bit rusty. Luckily the metal tab is mounted using a bolt so I was able to unbolt the metal bracket and use a vice, hammer, screw driver and pics to get the plastic connector off. You may also have to use heat to get the sensor off. I woulda used a torque wrench for the reinstall but there is very little access so I just hand tightened by feel.
i once replaced the front sensor but when my rear went bad, i ended up having to replace both as the front was still throwing codes after much driving.
for the battery, just upgrade to a Kirkland brand (Costco in Canada, Sam’s club in the USA?) 51r. It is a Honda civic sized battery. You will have to cut the lip on the battery tray to fit the battery but it’s a no brainer upgrade especially if you live in a cold climate. The battery has a rock solid 8 year warranty; I just trade mine in when it gets weak and you get a partial refund depending on the age. The positive is a bit skinnier than the oem but you can get a lead shim to put over the battery for better fitment or whack the terminal with a sledge to compress it. You can damage the battery that way though so shim is safer. the battery fits perfectly in the engine bay.
the rear (downstream) sensor is super easy but the front can’t be a real dog. I couldn’t for the life of me get the stupid plastic clip off of the metal tab because the tab was a bit rusty. Luckily the metal tab is mounted using a bolt so I was able to unbolt the metal bracket and use a vice, hammer, screw driver and pics to get the plastic connector off. You may also have to use heat to get the sensor off. I woulda used a torque wrench for the reinstall but there is very little access so I just hand tightened by feel.
i once replaced the front sensor but when my rear went bad, i ended up having to replace both as the front was still throwing codes after much driving.
for the battery, just upgrade to a Kirkland brand (Costco in Canada, Sam’s club in the USA?) 51r. It is a Honda civic sized battery. You will have to cut the lip on the battery tray to fit the battery but it’s a no brainer upgrade especially if you live in a cold climate. The battery has a rock solid 8 year warranty; I just trade mine in when it gets weak and you get a partial refund depending on the age. The positive is a bit skinnier than the oem but you can get a lead shim to put over the battery for better fitment or whack the terminal with a sledge to compress it. You can damage the battery that way though so shim is safer. the battery fits perfectly in the engine bay.
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