So my 2008 automatic fit base was involved in a front end accident a while ago, I replaced AC condenser and Radiator, Bleeded it and car has been driving fine, however, I lost AC(blows hot)

I thought it was a freon problem so I took it to AC recharge at the store, turns out the AC compressor clutch was not engaging thus failed.

Replaced AC compressor completely with a guaranteed worked used one and took it to AC recharge again, still the AC clutch does not engage and wasted more money

Then I replaced with a brand new aftermarket AC compressor, and clutch still won’t engage when AC button is pressed. I then replaced AC on/off switch (to make sure the green light comes up) in cabin and also AC pressure switch. Before going for another recharge. I would like to get some help to see if anyone had the same problem before.

I also checked now:

1. ⁠Fuse 10 not blown and also replaced with brand new (passenger air blowing motor also works)
2. ⁠the 2 fan 30A fuses are not blown but also replaced
3. ⁠not sure about the relays but when I use pliers to touch relays of AC clutch, i can hear a loud click
4. ⁠when i use pliers to touch both fan relays, they spin
5. ⁠When i swap relays with horn button and press horn all of them work

HOWEVER, when i start car and turn on AC, none of the radiator fan or AC fan or AC compressor clutch turns on. I quite firmly believe coolant is bleeded correctly as my car does not overheat for the last few months since replaced radiator and AC condenser. Any pointer please? I appreciate any help

 

A/C is hard to troubleshoot but here are my guesses:

1) less likely: sometimes the magnet is too weak to grab the clutch because the gap is too big. The service limit of the gap I think is 3 to 4 thou and there are different sizes shims you can use to adjust what they cal the “air gap”. Since you change the compressor probably not this.

2) leak. If you add oil, use the PAG oil with dye in it then you can do like me and buy a cheapo purple pocket flashlight and it will highlight the dye. A pro shop should have a machine that drains all the refrigerant and weighs it then tries to establish a vacuum. Apparently Hondas are finicky with the coolant level. If it is a little low, there is a pressure switch that will prevent the ac from turning on to prevent the compressor from burning out.

3) said pressure switch can also fail apparently.

It is somewhat hard to get the radiator fan to turn on. Engine has to be at 208 deg F i believe. When burping my coolant, I’ve had to rev the engine at 3000 rpm for more than 5 minutes straight to get it to turn on. In daily use, the only time my rad fan turned on was when I was stuck in traffic on a hot summer day. On the highway with air circulation I would run at 179F steady.

 

Low pressure at transducer (pressure switch) will cause a no power to clutch symptom. This is essentially a fail-safe and whether you want to hear it or not, that was likely the initial problem, though I wouldn't rule out a wiring to transducer or wiring to clutch issue also considering.

First check continuity on all wires from transducer to I believe it goes to PCM
Next check continuity on AC clutch wire at compressor to fuse/relay assembly.
If these are good, pull vacuum on both hot and low side, see if you can get a readout using appropriate scan tool of the transducer pressure. If not just vac down and perform leak test.
Following that fill with appropriate amount of freon, keep air out. Good luck.