LED T/Ls in, CC goes south
#1
LED T/Ls in, CC goes south
Bought and installed Wheels & Grillze JDM LED Tail Lights. Same as original except for LED Stop and Tail. Looks good, works great....except....
Driving on a trip this past weekend using CC, it gets dark, turned the lights on and... CC drops out and CC light goes out. CC Main still on, CC will not set.
Today disconnected the T/Ls, turned on lights and CC worked just fine.
08 FIT Sport, MT, just at 1000 mi.
HELP!!!!!(please)
Driving on a trip this past weekend using CC, it gets dark, turned the lights on and... CC drops out and CC light goes out. CC Main still on, CC will not set.
Today disconnected the T/Ls, turned on lights and CC worked just fine.
08 FIT Sport, MT, just at 1000 mi.
HELP!!!!!(please)
#2
One of two things.
One: If these are not plug and play (meaning they had the proper plugs and the proper length wire) make sure you are not feeding voltage from the tail light back to the brake light circuit. This will cause the computer to think your foot is on the brake and turn off the CC.
Two: If you are sure number one is not it, most likely you need some additional resistance in the hot lines of the break lights (and mostlikely the tail lights to make the flashers work properly). Real bulbs pull more power than LED. An easy fix.
Stop by your local parts store (I know Autozone has what I am talking about) and in the light and fuse section right next to the replacement LED bulbs they have ceramic resisters that will add the additional load that the rest of the electrical system is looking for.
This and flasher problems are the most common problems with LED lights in a car that was designed for real bulbs.
One: If these are not plug and play (meaning they had the proper plugs and the proper length wire) make sure you are not feeding voltage from the tail light back to the brake light circuit. This will cause the computer to think your foot is on the brake and turn off the CC.
Two: If you are sure number one is not it, most likely you need some additional resistance in the hot lines of the break lights (and mostlikely the tail lights to make the flashers work properly). Real bulbs pull more power than LED. An easy fix.
Stop by your local parts store (I know Autozone has what I am talking about) and in the light and fuse section right next to the replacement LED bulbs they have ceramic resisters that will add the additional load that the rest of the electrical system is looking for.
This and flasher problems are the most common problems with LED lights in a car that was designed for real bulbs.
Last edited by seeremlive; 09-17-2008 at 05:00 PM. Reason: added another thought
#8
Still in limbo, have not put in diodes/load resistors yet. I'm leaning towards the resistors first as it is an easier task. The MAF is still on the board in the AWP pocket
Last edited by avcm; 09-23-2008 at 03:50 PM.
#10
~Robert
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