The printed instructions and the PDF online both leave a LOT to be desired. This is not a cut and dried install, but it could be if the instructions were better. That said, their customer service is pretty good. A real live person answers the phone, and directs you to another real live person that can answer questions.

 

Update: I spent about 2 hours today and yesterday working on the cruise control installation, and about 30-40 minutes on the phone with Michael. He had me testing different wires with my multimeter and told me to cut/splice in the VSS wire from the kit with the VSS wire in my Fit and still the damn thing doesn't work.

I'm waiting on a call back from him. I have double checked all my connections, spent probably 8-10 hours on the install, and I still have no cruise. It's starting to piss me off but I'm hoping to have it working in the next hour or two.

I would not recommend this kit to anyone that isn't ready to deal with some headaches during the installation. In the end, hopefully I'll have a working cruise control and it'll be worth it, but as for now I'm about ready to run this bastard over with my car.

As confusing as the instructions are, their costumer service/tech support is top notch. Michael is very helpful.

 

Hi Everyone

I am very new to this car stuff so really need help here.

I read through the instruction and understand most of it except the location of the brake & chutch switches. Could someone please tell me where are they located?

Thanks

 

the brake and clutch switches are near/on the brake and clutch pedals. Start at each pedal and work your way up into the dash and you will find the switches. They are pretty high up on the pedal. The brake switch is just about near the steering column.

 

Thanks sweatmachine, now i understand for the brake switch!
But as for the clutch switch, mine doesn't have a clutch pedal, its an auto transmission type. So where to find this switch?

 

You don't have to wire up anything for the clutch switch.

 

Update:

After a total of approx 10 hours of my time and a dozen phone calls in to Michael at M&R, I have a working cruise control.

Bottom line: The printed instructions that come in the kit SUCK and are INCORRECT but M&R's tech support/customer service is excellent. Rostra actually prints the instructions, so I can't really blame M&R 100%, though you'd think they get tired of all the calls they must get.

The main thing that screwed me up was the throttle wiring. The diagram says to connect to the light blue throttle wire, and the orange throttle wire. This is incorrect for the 2007 Fit. On the PDF instructions online, it says to connect to the blue w/ orange stripe and the purple wire. This is correct.

Other than that snafu, the other major beef I have with the kit are the stupid posi-tap connectors. Michael told me right off to get rid of those and strip/twist/crimp all my connections. I can't believe they'd ship these kits with the posi-crap connectors knowing how poorly they perform.

Use the online instructions located here:

http://www.thecruisecontrolstore.com/1855.pdf

Throw the instructions that come in the kit in the garbage, get your multi-meter ready, and get your phone ready to call into tech support.

If the instructions were better this would be a fairly easy installation and should take no more than 2-3 hours. I have spent 2-3 times that amount of time on it, but it now works as it should so I guess in the end it was worth it. I'm not happy about it. I feel that for $300 they should have their sh!t together a lot better.

 

But in Pg6 & last page of the instruction manual from Rostra.com stated it must connect to the clutch switch, if not, Cruise Control will not work.

Enlighten me please?

 

Nope. I have a manual trans and I didn't wire anything to my clutch and it works fine. You don't need to wire anything. You don't even have a clutch.

 

I had miss out the very 1st instruction which is to connect the Accelerator Harness (for 2007 Fit are Blue/Orange & Purple wires that is stated in Pg4 of the instruction) to the Pedal Interface Harness of the Cruise Control Module (1 set is the Red & White wires, the other set is the Yellow & Green wires). I can’t find this Accelerator Harness, please help?

I am driving a Honda,

Model: Fit
Year of Manufacture: 2007
Chassis No: GD 12395537
Engine No: L13A 2319195


Thanks & Regards

 

It's on top of the accelerator pedal. Crawl under the dash and look for yourself. You'll need a flashlight or a headlamp.

 

yes i already did that but there is no wires connect to it except for a steel cable that run directly to the engine side. i think mine is not a electronic controlled trottle. Is there any way to solve this?

 

N-n-n-necro! The kit appears to have been updated since this thread originated. It is no longer necessary to run any wires outside the interior for the VSS, the correct interior wire to tap into is given instead. Mine shipped with a cruise control switch that mounts in the steering column cover. It doesn't look quite stock but it looks pretty good.

However, the clutch switch instructions (which are separate, it is "generic") are *still completely wrong*. As mentioned by thread OP, wiring in series with the cruise's brake ground wire is the way to do it.

And Mike at M&R was great. My kit shipped with the wrong plug-and-play accelerator harness piece from Rostra, after verifying what I had he sent the correct one right away.

The cruise worked on the first try and I love it. Now my Fit is complete!

 

Hi Ross154

Thank very much! But I guess my Fit cannot fix this Cruise Control as my petrol trottle is control by cable and not electrically.

Best Regards

 

This is a guide for the Rostra 250-1867 plus dashboard-mount switch 250-3592 or 250-3593. I installed into a 2007 base-model fit. I think this kit fixes the issues mentioned above about the clutch wires, and VSS wire.

I purchased a cruise control kit from eBay seller ***** (pm me if you want) titled “Rostra 250-1867 Cruise Control Kit 2007 - 2011 Honda Civic w ABS & 07 - 08 Fit”. It included the Rostra cruise module 250-1867, and a dash-mount push-button cruise control Rostra 250-3592. There were other kits available which used a control stalk on the steering column, but dash-mount seemed easier, and I’m old enough to remember dash-mount buttons (and column-mount gear-shift).

I paid $259.95 in fall 2013, but I see that the same seller is now listing them at $242.95. The unit came promptly, stuffed into a tiny $5 flat-rate USPS box. Although nothing was damaged, I thought that they could have spared $5 more for packing something costing over $200. The manual was photocopied black-and-white, which also seemed a bit cheap.

The kit came with several cable assemblies in baggies. Each baggie had a number on it. None of the numbers matched anything in the manual.

Some tips on reading the manual:

- Download the manual (PDF) from Rostra, and print it in color.
- Throw away the pages marked “Honda Civic”. They’re only there to confuse you.
- When reading the manual, the manual refers to the car’s own fuse panel area as the “Junction Box”.
- The manual refers to one of its supplied cable assemblies as the “main harness”, and the “Main Harness” and the “Cruise Harness” (no, it’s not talking about the car’s own wiring harness or connectors).
- Every page in the manual is titled “Dash Mount Switch”, regardless of whether or not that step involves the actual dash-mount switch.
- In fact, the included manual doesn’t describe the Dash Mount Switch at all. Download the manual for 250-3592 to see what the blue and gray and pink wires on the dash-mount switch do.

The steps I took for installation:

- There will be a cable assembly for the Honda Civic labelled “59C-06006”, which you don’t need; throw it in a corner.

- Inspect the Cruise Control Module (250-1867) (the “Module”). As you look at the connector-end of the Module, the left connector is for the accelerator; the middle connector is for the dash-mount Control Switch panel (the “Switch”). And the right connector is for a pigtail of wires running to the power,ground,brake,clutch, and VSS (the “Harness”).

- Take the pigtail assemblies out of the baggies, and plug them into these three connectors, so you get an idea of how it goes together. The cable with two black ends is for the accelerator pedal, and plugs on the left; the narrowest connector with both a black and a white end, plugs in the middle; and the connector with a bunch of long loose wires, plugs in the right.

- Open the fusebox: at the lower left corder of the dash, to the right of the "pop open the hood" lever, find the indentation marked “fuses”, and turn the knob. Pull the fusebox cover out to expose the fuses.

- Remove the under-dash cover: Under the dash, just to the right of the fuse panel you just opened, is another release knob. Turn it, and pull the left-edge of the under-dash-cover down an inch or two. Tug down on the right edge of the under-dash-cover, and the right end will pop down also. Pull the whole cover towards you to pop it loose from the back edge.

- Inspect the Switch (p/n 250-3593) that came from Rostra, which mounts onto the dash. Find where you want to mount the panel. The steering wheel will get in the way of the drill. I drilled at an angle to get it just where I wanted it.

-Drill the three holes as instructed using the template from the manual, using a 9/32” bit for the outside two holes. Make the middle hole bigger (5/16” or 3/8”); 9/32” isn’t big enough for the middle hole.

- Feed the Switch’s pigtail into the middle hole, and pull it down and back out the open fuse panel door. Trim the wires you won’t need: I didn’t need the "Engaged" LED, or the dimmer function, so I cut the long, thick wires colored pink, gray and blue, leaving only the four short thin wires, and the long, thick white and black wires.

- Take the empty black 3-hole nylon connector from the baggie. From the Switch pigtail, push the thin red wire into the middle hole of the empty black nylon connector. Use tweezers to pull it until it clicks. Now plug the whole black nylon connector onto the black connector on the Module’s center pigtail.

- Take the empty white 3-hole nylon connector, and line it up with the white nylon connector from the Module’s center pigtail.

- See the Yellow/Green wire on the Module-side? Push the thin brown wire from the Switch pigtail into the empty white 3-hole nylon connector, so that it lines-up with the Yellow/Green wire from the Module. Pull apart the white connectors so that you can seat the pin with the tweezers.

- Then insert the thin yellow wire from the Switch into the middle hole of the white nylon connector, and seat it with tweezers.

- Then insert the thin green wire into the remaining hole, and seat it.

- Then reconnect the white nylon connector from the Switch, to the white connector from the from the Module’s center pigtail.

- Twist-up the slack wiring into a neat bow, and tape to the Module with electrical tape. You only need enough slack in the cable to let the module hang out the fuse panel door.

- Inspect the accelerator pigtail (the one you didn’t throw in a corner). Take a look at the two black nylon connectors on it. You can plug them together until they click; then you need to push down on a squeeze-release tab to get them apart. Now take a look at the gas pedal. At the top of the pedal, on the left side, is the same kind of connector. Squeeze the release tab and pull it free, and let it dangle loosely.

- Plug the black connector from the Module’s left pigtail into the connector on the gas pedal; and plug the dangling cable into the remaining connector on the Module’s left pigtail.

- Tie the cable to something up under the dash, so that it doesn’t fall out while driving. Twist-up the extra cable in a bow, and tie with electrical tape.

- Brake sensor: Get down underneath the dash and look up at the brake pedal. At the top (way up, by the steering column) is a white nylon 2-wire connector (“Brake Plug”). Now get out from under the dash, and look to the left of the steering wheel, through a gap in the dash plastic: you can see the same connector plug. While looking through the gap in the front of the dash, reach up from underneath the dash to the connector. Squeeze its release tab and pull to get it free (this one is tricky).

- It is held in-place by a cable-tie. Cut the cable-tie to gain about 1/4" more cable.

- Push it out of the gap in the dash (by the steering column) towards you. It won’t be nearly as long as you’d like.

- Strip the insulation off the green/white wire using a sharp knife.

- Take the Blue wire from the Module’s right pigtail, and feed it from the Module into the dash through the fuse panel door, and out through the gap to the left of the steering column. Trim it shorter, and strip the end, and solder to the white/green wire you just stripped.

- Repeat the process with the White/Black wire on the Brake Plug, and solder it to the White/Brown wire from the Module’s right pigtail.

- Replug the Brake Plug into its socket. If you cut the cable-tie supporting it, then put a new cable tie in there.

- Clutch sensor: Look at the clutch pedal: at the top is a round-ish yellow plug. It has a squeeze-tab to release it. It has two wires: one is black, and the other is either light-green (like mine) or orange. Strip insulation from the green (or orange) wire, and solder to the White wire from the Module’s right pigtail.

- VSS wire: Inside the fuse-box, there is a vertical column of green rectangular plugs towards the left. To the right of this row of green plugs, is a row of fuses with a plastic white square fuse-puller near the top. From this fuse puller, look first at the green connector to its left, then look one green connector down. Pull that lower green connector: there is squeeze tab on the left edge of the connector, near its middle. I used a needle-nose pliers, but be very gentle.

- On the side of this green plug which is opposite the squeeze-tab; at the end which is nearest to the squeeze-tab, the corner wire should be gray/red. Strip-off some insulation, and solder it to the purple wire from the Module Harness Pigtail (which is way longer than it needs to be).

- Power: If you trimmed the same wires from the Panel that I did, you have only two power wires to deal with: the red wire from the Module’s right pigtail, and the white wire from the Switch. The instructions say to trim insulation from the Ignition signal wire. I didn’t want to cut into my ignition wire. I bought a $6 Add-A-Circuit at Auto Barn instead. I put two fuses into it, unplugged the top fuse from the car’s main row of fuses (#17 for Power Windows, I think), and plugged the Add-A-Fuse into that circuit #17. I ran both the Module’s red power wire, and the Switch’s white power wire, to the Add-a-Circuit’s crimp connector, crimped them both into the crimp connector, and sealed with electrical tape.

- Ground: If you trimmed the wires I did, you have a black ground from the Module and a black ground from the Switch. I connected both wires to a frame screw.

- Stow the Module: just inside the fuse panel door and to the right, is a J-shape plate of metal. I stuck my Module on that, and tied it in place with two wraps of electrical tape.

The result for me is that the "On" LED glows orange when the cruise is On, the "Engaged" LED doesn’t do anything, and the cruise works pretty-much as you’d expect any cruise to work. I got lucky and mine worked on the first try (no troubleshooting).

 

I have also installed the Rostra kit, but I used the Honda OEM steering wheel mounted buttons instead of the kit buttons. I have started a separate DIY thread about it (there are a lot of different steps from the standard kit install).

Pros vs. the kit buttons:

• It looks better
• Is steering wheel mounted
• Has a (working) cancel button

Cons vs. the kit buttons:

• Doesn't have any indicator lights for cruise on/off or engaged, although you can tell by feel when the on/off is clicked in
• Is very expensive to install (Honda parts are expensive in addition to the kit)
• Takes much more time and effort to install