hmm sucks!
if your local to a junkyard i say if they cant order you a new one, go check out the junkyards to see if they have fits.

 

<:O fits in the junkyard!?!?! thats sad to hear

yep i used 10 amps on mine.

 

Try a 5 or a 7.5 amp fuse so it pops right away if anything happends just to give you piece of mind. But most folks are using a 10.

I think you might be in worst danger because your pushing alot more power using high beams & fog lights compared to just independant fog lights. Just my .2 cents

 

well..... now u know what the purpose of a fuse is

 

it is NOT exactly known what caused the problem

which method of "independent" fog lights did u use?
can u have fogs and high beams on at the same time WITH NO KEY in the ignition?

where on the harness did the heat originate (there r a lot of other systems on that harness besides the lights)?

did u use solder?


the real problem is is that even if the fog light mod was NOT the source of the problem, the dealer will deny any and all responsibility on their part to avoid any warranty work since u did modify the wiring

for about 30min of work u could of bypassed whatever was melted by using solder, some kind of connector, or just twisting the wires together.......oh well

 

I followed the directions as they were in the thread here. Albeit I was following the original thread as it was being worked out before people even had wiring schematics. The fogs only came on when the key was in the ignition and still turned off with the high beams. The only thing I can think of is that the way people are wiring them up is instead of the harness getting a current when the headlight switch is turned on, we trick it into thinking the headlights are on and give it a constant power source instead of one that only turns on when the headlights are and perhaps the current from the relay is less than just a constant from the fuse box.

It's funny how upset people get at me for this even though I haven't bitched once about having to pay for the mistake. I'm just trying to let others know it is possible to do if not done correctly and perhaps even if you've done it correctly. It took 2 years to show up my way it very well could show up with more time on methods done with an in-line fuse.

 

The best way is wiring directly off the battery and independent of the vehicle wiring. Use sufficient wire, such as 8 or 12 gage, fused and switched on the power side (+) and make sure you are not hindering the satellite wiring requirements.
Thinking your using 150 watts on each, that needs a quick blow 15A fuse if they are in parallel on each leg and 30A if they are in series. Ditto the switch which should have 30A capacity.

 

Thanks for the heads up, I was considering wiring them up that way but I think I'm just gonna leave them alone. I missed them for a week but now it's not that bad.

 

the problem was the cheapo fake Xenon style bulbs... seen it many times before no worrys about the hid's they're safer

 

man, i am about to do the independent fogs and i hope this doesn't happen to me.

 

Makes me feel better knowing I have a add-a-fuse in there of course it could still happen to me.

 

Well I just did the indie fogs 15mins ago. So fingers crossed That I don't have tha same prob but I did use the add-a-circuit.