I plan on drag racing it once or twice a year. I went with the smaller wheel for not only the price but the option to run smaller diameter tire to increase the final drive. Tire selection is very limited but regular tires are quite cheap. I did not buy these for the looks and they currently have winter tires on them which definitely makes them look like off road tires lol. I would like to get some 185/60r13s so that'll reduce the sidewall height a bit and give better accel due to smaller diameter overall.

 

I put some nice Goodyear GT tires on the GSR blades. Did it for $160 for all 4 tires. I will post some pics soon. Car needs a bath but look good far away with the blades. Sadly up close you can see the the previous owner did not care when painting them.

 

working on installing innovative 75a mounts on the fit today.

 

Modified my coil overs today to get some more camber in the front. Bringing it over to the shop tomorrow for an alignment and dial in the camber to -3*.



Put these on today. EBC yellow stuff pads and rotors. The black looked great for about 10 seconds until I drive and hit the brakes. Bye-bye black haha. So far they feel solid. looking forward to seeing how they feel racing this weekend.

 

Show us how the black looks now!

Anyways, sick setup on the brakes.

 

^^ The black is just a protective coating on those. It'll wear away during bed in.

Rollerboots666: Nice choice in rotor and pad. I used to run those USR850s myself, they held up well will mild performance pads. Have you completed the bed in process? If so, how is the bite under braking?

 

Ikutoisahobo I'll snap some photos tomorrow.

Hootie I haven't completed the bed in process yet. Only put on about 15 miles so far. I will be breaking them in over the next 2 days before I race the car on Sunday. Alignment tomorrow to get the camber dialed in at then tighten up some suspension specs. After that I plan to play with the hondata and try to tune the car with the new IK22 plugs.

 

Nice idea on the alignment... great job!!!!

 

Thank you sir. I appreciate the tip you gave me.

With the eccentric bolts I was able to get -5.5* of camber. CRAZY I was happy to get -3* in the front and correct the toe . Had some heavy drag yesterday.

 

Replaced some of the clips in my side skirts with new ones and picked up some motor oil and a new oil filter for my next oil change.

 

picked up a spec front strut bar and t1r mid pipe off a member today to the shop on Monday for install

 

Took the cat heat shields off bc they were rusting and rattling like mad...

 

Common issue on Honda's. My fit had some ousted bolts I was able to break loose putting the header in. And I'm in California.

 

Changed front struts/pads/sway bar end links/rear shocks and serpentine belt...dealership quoted me nearly $2K, all the parts were about $375 and took about 4hrs...thanks to fitfreak everything went pretty smooth

 

Here is a pic of the rotors after they have bedded in.

 

@ 85.1K mi now and just had my valves clearance checked and adjusted. All intake valves were within spec... All exhaust valves were tight (around 0.009).

No previous symptoms. Car runs fine. Just had an opportune time to check/adjust for some peace of mind... Now its nap time ZZzzzzz....

 

Did you do this or had a shop do it? Curious how difficult it is on the L15. Did this all the time on my D16.

 

Shouldn't be a big deal if you've done one before. Did it in my driveway with someone who knew how. I was the gofer. I mostly watched and asked questions.

Just involves taking the air filter housing off, plastic engine cover off, some tubing and connectors. Took off the valve cover and disconnected all the coil pack connectors.

Here's a link with pictures that someone else posted: DIY adjusting valve clearences GD - Honda Fit Forums
We didn't do it the same way as the poster though. Didn't take out the plugs nor hand-crank the shaft - just pulsed the starter to turn the crankshaft. Sorry don't have all the technical terminologies. Car runs fine - test drove while scanning. All good.

 

Yeah seems simple enough. Like most Honda's I guess. This one requires taking a few more things off and replacing like gaskets. The reason you take you plugs out is to relieve the motor from cylinder pressure. It will make turning the crank easy rather then putting some muscle into it.

 

The upper plastic intake manifold has to come off because it covers the valve cover. That's pretty much the difference between l and the d series. That and the engine bay is in tighter space.