Aftermarket can sound better if you get something quality... and would be less likely to blow again (with higher power handling).

 

07' Fit Sport, i just turned 92000 and NEVER had any problems! Just general matainance, oil changes front brakes new set of tires. I also changed the battery because it was 6 years old. It's my work horse and my Hummer stays in the garage. I love my Fit!!!!

 

additional comment, My coworkers call my 07 fit the twizzler because of my Moroso spiral flow muffler.

 

My 2008 base model has finally crossed over 100K miles. I've already done front brakes and oil every 5K. Just did the automatic trans fluid. I hate taking anything to a shop or dealer but I think with the Fit I'm gonna let the dealer tackle the valve lash and spark plugs. I'll stick to working on my 91 Civic and CRX. I hate doing anything to the Fit.

 

Okay another update here, My last update was at 140k about 10 months ago.

I am now up to about 164,000 miles.

I have continued to perform all regular maintenance on schedule and here's what I've got.

At 20k a piece of plastic broke off of the inside of the E-brake handle, it was replaced and has broken again since and I give up. NBD.
At 70k - warped brake rotors resurfaced.
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At 110k I had a malfunction in my voltage regulator that caused my alternator to continue to charge my batter even when it was fully charged, resulting in several burned out interior lights and quickly going through headlights for a couple months. It also caused the headlights (and all other lights) to pulsate brighter and dimmer in sync with an irregular idle that slowly worsened, stalling the car on a couple cold mornings. The dealer couldn't detect any problem with the electrical system or battery but replaced the battery.

See the earlier post on page 3 for the fix, it was a bad voltage regulator (part of the alternator) Replaced at 120k and fixed the problem completely.

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At 130,000 miles the brake wear indicator came up and made noise for awhile. I took the car in to replace burned out dash lights, from the alternator affair, and to have my brake pads and rotors replaced. They replaced the brake pads but misunderstood and resurfaced the rotors instead of replacing those. Never the less, I still haven't re-warped my rotors at 140k.
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Shortly after 130k a metallic rattle began under my car. It was the heat sheild for the catalytic converter, which was throwing a P0420 check engine code as well, and was at the end of it's life.

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At 150,000 the check engine light had become constant no matter how many times I reset it and so I rewarded the car with a new catalytic converter and it has stopped the check engine light and all is well on that front.

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On a hot summer day a few weeks ago at 163k I reached for the volume knob and the rubber ring that is on it turned to goo and nearly came off the knob. This was not an exceptionally hot day.. I think the adhesive that holes the rubber ring (grip textured) to the plastic volume knob had melted away/ rotted etc. I was able to order a new volume knob by itself through Honda for like $10 I think. It was a terrible pain to replace as the old knob is VERY HARD if not impossible to remove without breaking things behind it. The way we did it was to break the grey plastic surface (with all the dots around it that light up when lights are on) away from the round darker slate colored plastic half of it. Then we could see inside the ring, and used 3 tiny screwdrivers to push away clips and gently pry it off. --- New knob snapped right on.

Rotors are juuuuussst starting to re-warp.

Just did the 150,000 major service and waxed the car up nice. It is running well and seems as spry as the day I bought it. Additionally, the car is fully paid off and that's been wonderful.

Onward towards 200!

 

2010 sport with 65,000 miles

 

Car purchased used with appx 128,000 miles.
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Changed oil out at 132,000 miles/New Filter ~ High mileage.
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Problems since ownership: Oil change....Sometimes clunks into second gear.....Right wheel *seems* to be weak at times.....and either warped rotors or bad struts because when slowing down, there's a shutter. No major problems, no plastic pieces breaking. No mechanical failure or suspension issues. Basically no problems at all.
___

Aftermarket parts: K&N drop-in, T1R SRI, Independent Fogs, Megan Axle Back, Tsudo Cat Back, JDM Tails, and soon to be Megan Headers. Awaiting install money.
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No aftermarket parts have given me lip, or even stock ones. This car is fantastic. Even as a high school kid, this car satisfies my 'need-for-speed', so to speak, and it is a blast to drive. Sometimes I contemplated selling it for, like, a 1995 Mr2 Turbo, but then I would go outside and look at my car.... and I just couldn't do it. It's so fun to drive, it has such a peppy, upbeat, personality, and it's damn sexy ;D. It's like a puppy..or a child lol too young for that part, I guess. Anyways, highly underrated cars, even for teens. Seriously. Coming from a 16 year old grease nut.

 

Just an update on my 07 Honda Fit...I have 293,000 miles on it...no issues and purring right along

 

Well I have a Fit 07' and it runs 92 K. I am satisfied with the mileage this car is giving. I have bought this car last year and there has been no need to do any maintenance. It is in good condition plus the steering wheel also needs to be change. This car is really amazing.

 

285,00mi. Front brakes last about 30K for me and change the rotors every other pad swap. Mobile 1 oil changes at about 12-15K mi.. one was at 30K mi! Had trans fluid changed 2 times and coolant 1x so far. Had 1 valve adjustment at about 120K.

Alternator's Regulator went out at 99,850 mi (my ext. warr company hated me .. it went again at 190,000 or so.. still haven't changed it.. lights flicker about 50% of the time. A/C hose next to alternator started leaking after that was changed..just top of the R134 each summer. Changed the VTEC oil switch, and 1 COP failed at about 200K. Did a battery at 5yrs...drove it for 3 months with it half dead.. couldn't leave the lights or key on for more than 2-3 min before it wouldn't crank.

Orig back brakes, belts and hoses. Changed all 4 shocks at about 260,00k and did the air ride on the back. Big help! 2 sets of spark plugs, tires have lasted about 60-70K a set.

Both bumpers were repainted by Honda very early on for peeling paint problem. They also replaced the right front speaker and a wheel well liner that got loose and rubbed. Drivers seat has a screwed up bottom cushion but thats cuz im 6'4, 400lbs! Recal for SRS software and window switch.. they won't do the headlight switch recall since i rewired it for my alarms AutoLamp (Clifford NightVision) feature (doesn't need it anyway do to my change)

This car has been wonderful for as hard as i drive her.

 

I only thing I've replaced is right side front bearing, battery, blower motor for heater, and all the fluids.tires and brakes ( rotors too)

 

Realized I hadn't been around in a long time...

My 2008 Fit has 164,000 miles.

Major work:

85k- new tires
110k- new brakes/rotors, transmission flush/fluid
150k- new spark plugs
163k- vtec solenoid replaced and valve adjustment (car ran like crap cold and mpg slipped)

Things it still needs:
Tires (about 80k) on the current set
Driver side vent glass got shattered about 15k ago, still taped in place.

 

Dam good to see these things last a long time. I should have never traded my First 08 MT in. But now my wife has a 08 AT not as great but it will do. Hers only has about 40k miles though.

 

Speakers generally don't blow from too much power, they are destroyed from the heat caused by harmonic distortion. Also, going with aftermarket speakers (best idea = less money) will require you to replace both door speakers and modification to the wiring connectors (no biggie).

 

Um, I never said anything about that. Can't tell if you are trying to correct me...

 

Not trying to correct you, just stating that if someone is running speakers off of headunit power (which is never more than 8-12W RMS), the power handling capability of the speakers shouldn't factor heavily into the decision making process when purchasing a new pair.

Jason

 

My GD1's now at 96,000 kilometers, or roughly 60,000 miles, with a mixture of trackdays, road trips and daily driving.

Notable observations:

- Use genuine Honda MTF; it's simply the best stuff for the gearbox. Do NOT use Royal Purple Synchromax MTF; Royal Purple themselves don't recommend it and I should have heeded their advice. Right off the bat the shift quality suffers and I experienced a higher incidence of mis-shifts. Which leads me to...

- If you mis-shift one too many times, the mainshaft bearing will go bad on you. That will require a labor-intensive teardown of the transmission to swap out a $20 bearing (I was lucky that was the only thing that broke). According to my mechanic, the Fit/Jazz manual gearbox is very similar to a B-series transmission, but with questionably-sized bearings. He thought the mainshaft bearing was too small for the job, even though I bought it directly from Honda and referred to the Electronic Service Manual. This lesson has helped at least one other Jazz owner whose mainshaft bearing broke as well.

- I've had the clutch replaced at the same time, at around 70,000 km (43,500 mi). There was some friction material left on the face, but it was only a matter of time until it went kaput anyway.

- When I went back to using Honda MTF, everything was peachy again.

- Take a good look at your drive belts and replace them if they show any sights of cracking or fraying. I replaced mine with a DIY job - not an easy thing to do for people with big arms or hands but doable without getting the engine out of the car.

- If you drive over bad, rutted streets and road acne a lot, you'll want to look into the front suspension mounts. These "top hats" are made of rubber and they're the meat in the sandwich between the front damper mountings and the dampers themselves. The rubber material degrades and becomes more conical over time instead of staying flat. Your shock towers will rise noticeably and poke into the engine bay more when these go bad.

Hope this helps

 

I just rolled over 100k

- Getting new tires next month, I've gone through a few sets.

- New brake pads, I've had aftermarket vented and slotted rotors for about 50k and they do not need to be cut, took the first ones off because they were so warped.

- replaced the alternator at about 75k because the regulator was bad, I do run aftermarket headunit, speakers, and HID's but this shouldnt have been a problem, the aftermarket one had a noisy bearing I had the stock rebuilt and put back in just recently. Everything is quiet again.

- 100k transmission fluid and oil change


After the 100k work the car sounds and runs pretty good. The valves are a little noisy I had them adjusted when the car was under warranty and nothing ever changed so I just ignore it.

This winter with the extreme cold and me driving back and fourth to the mountains for snowboarding will be the true test of how this thing holds up after 100k. I'm confident it will run well, especially after the recent tune up.

No need for spark plugs or even the timing belt, honda checked those out for me when I had them do the transmission fluid and oil change. I usually change oil my self but after 100k I wanted an inspection.

Good luck to everyone can't say after 100k this car has changed much from the day I got it.

 

Well im back again, at about 103,500. Dropped the car off at Honda for 2 reasons. A grinding starter and rear wheel hubs.

Starter problem:
Only in the morning and I mean ONLY IN THE MORNING the car grinds when starting. As if the starter is getting stuck. It's a loud grind, goes away rite after the car turns over and will not do it for the rest of the day. Even if it sits for 10 hours it will not doi it again until the next morning. So strange.

The car is at Honda now and they are replacing the starter for $460 that is a brand new genuine Honda starter installed. Not the greatest price but I know the guy working on my car personally and he said it's the best price he can do unless I want to go aftermarket. Which he doesn't recommend because the quality of the aftermarket parts. Having them go ahead and make this repair.

Read hub problem:
I was hearing a ton of road noise on the fit which started rite after 100k. I drove the car about 600 miles by myself for business and started hearing it when i was alone. Wasn't sure if I was crazy or it was an actual problem. I put new tires on and it seemed to change tones, I figured I was going insane after driving so many hours in the car alone. I took the car to Vermont to snowboard anyway and after we got back I heard a grinding, metally type noise from the rear.

Honda is going to replace the rear hub for $325, which includes labor and parts. Again I would love to not spend this money and go aftermarket but after dealing with Chinese bearing inside my alternator I won't make that mistake again.

Do it correctly the first time or you'll be forced to do it again.

So basically at 100k I had to do some significant maintenance and put about $2000 into the car.

I am planning to trade in after the snowboarding season and buy some type of SUV brand new but the fit has kept me going since the day I got my license and maintaining some of these parts after such high mileage is a given.

 

as long as your not spending a car payment in repairs each month, its not time to trade in yet, or buy a new car.