Thats some BS for a $300 unit to die in a week. What did they have to say about it?

I have never heard of the group you bought it from.

I know the autozone alternators are crap but they give you a lifetime replacement warranty, I really hope these guys make it right for you. The one I got from the Alter Start guys I mentioned has been rock solid, so maybe if you end up with a refund they would be the ones to call up.

Did you have a shop do the install or did you perform the work? Maybe the belt was cranked too tight.. You mentioned you needed a smaller belt, thats because it has a smaller than stock pulley right?

Now that you are back on the stocker maybe it is time to add some ground straps, find a smaller pulley and add a seperate battery charge line of the alternator.

This should help you in the event you end up sticking with the stocker or if you go back to a up-rated rebuild.

 

There going to replace the unit hopefully the next one doesnt turn out this way. The alt belt was not super tight and yes we needed a smaller belt because the smaller pulley.

It ran absolutely wonderful while this thing was functioning. The stock is back in so I can send this out. I did the work. Going to overnight this thing back so I don't get stranded because the stock is acting worse then before flickering even fast. Pretty sure it needs a rebuild.


What is the tension the belt is supposed to have my dad said he had bought the tool to do it a few months ago we werent sure of the number.

 

I mailed the unit back to QP for $30 they had it back to me within 4 or 5 days. Great...

Spent 3 1/2 hours yesterday doing the install i've gotten quite good at removing what I need to, to get to the alt.

Got the new one in and now im hearing noise sounds like bearings still. I'm fed up at this point very disappointed. Will be calling QP tomorrow and requesting a full refund for the part. Refund for the shipping when I sent it back the first and requesting a paid shipping label to send there broken piece of junk back.

 

Hum... jumping in late (and with nothing to back me up)... Maybe something else in the car is going bad? Or causing the (stock) alternator to go bad.

You had your car repaired from the rear ender, right? This is really just a wild suggestion... care to tear down the rear end to look there for issues? Exposed wires and who knows what else.

 

The pulsing was happening before the rear end it was just less frequent it got progressively worse over a long period of time in which I added a cap and check for any loose connections. The first time I put the new alternator in the car sounded solid there was no pulsing at all.

Then the bearing blew who knows why QP (qualitypower) said it was a defective bearing it's rare but it happens. Directly after I put the NEW alt in for the second time we heard a weird grinding kind of like dirt in an unsealed bearing. This sound has noe stopped.

Took the car for a spin around the block. Gave it time to heat up then got a little hard on the throttle to check for sounds. I feel like it may be whining as I speed u but I've been trying to listen so much who knows.


Had my dad take the car for a spin. He said he hears nothing from the alternator. BUT when he turns the key off he hears a little whine then a click. I think I have always heard this but have not gotten to listen with him yet but does anyone hear something like this it turns off in seconds before you can go from ignition to engine bay. It also happens with out even starting the engine.

 

maybe what he heard was the fuel pump shutting off.

couple of members have been saying that on the Fit (don't recall if it was specific to either GD or GE or just in general)... that if you turn the key to the on position... you can hear the fuel pump prime the engine.

 

Yes we are hearing if you go from off to the first click without starting the engine you hear click then buzzzzz then it stops. I think it may be the fuel pump as well.

 

Just replace my alternator then my battery went it's only a year old replace that car is running 13.5 idle and 14.2 charging better then it was no light flicker have power steering and seat belt beeper works wen I drive thank you guys Advance auto parts bc I refuse to go to honda headlight recall started this whole thing they cut my amp wire putting big load on car

 

Going to drive the car today. Hoping all is well or ill be back tonight with a sad story

 

I have been driving the car probably put around 30 miles on it. I have not heard any grinding but I do feel like im hearing a little bit of a high pitched whine out of the alternator. The pulsing of the lights has stopped. The bass and amp are working flawlessly and im not getting any jerks out of the car.

I have a 1 year warranty on the alt... hopefully it never goes again.

 

hey ciggy, i've been needing to upgrade my alternator as well. how is it for you now? are you still using from Honda Fit High Output Alternators, i really need an upgrade and was lkooking into it. thanks.

 

That alternator is still in my car but still has a bad bearing. I actually just recently had the stock one rebuilt and plan to swap them out as I'm draining less power and have added a capacitor. Tired of hearing the crunching noise from the bearing when im stopped at lights. I would definitely not recommend where I purchased from as they sent me an alternator that died in 24 hours and then returned it back to me rebuilt where it still made noise but functioned correctly. Unacceptable for the money I paid.

 

That really sucks getting a rebuilt with problems... to mention the time and labor you had to put into the changeovers. Hopefully, everything will work out for you with the next one. It's good the company has returns. Some companies won't allow returns on electrical components.

 

which one of the alternators did you buy from them and did it fit on first try? does it happen to be the 165AMP one?

 

Hey everybody. Newbie here...

I tried searching for help on this but I couldn't find it. I've also tried asking the dealer and looking for a repair manual... without luck.

My lights are flickering when I'm driving but charge light doesn't show any problems. Additionally the recall for the light switch has been performed. So the only thing left is the alternator. I found a voltage regulator:

Part # IM582 Voltage Regulator Brush Holder Assembly

The only problem is that I don't know how to remove the alternator!! There doesn't seem to be any space to get the alternator out. I'm assuming it needs to be removed from below the car but that also seems too small. What do I do?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

alright, here we go.
i've finished upgrading my alternator to at least a 140 rated amp. what i had to do was to take out the intake manifold with a 10mm socket.

intake manifold removal..

after that, you can take the alternator out.

 

Cool! Thanks th0m4svu.

I'll give it a look this week.

I bought a old civic from www.govdeals.com for $600. I'll be picking it up today. Wish me luck!

 

I have a big drain on my car as well and still have my stock 2010 Honda fit sport alternator.
I have 4 12's walled off and one 1400 kinetic battery. Regardless of the battery, if I turn my gain up enough my cars interior lighting dims due to the drain from the subs. It been so bad that it shut off my cars power steering. I need a bigger alternator and battery and need help cause I have no idea what I'm doing.

 

Did you ever hear the story about the guy who went to the doctor and said "When I do this it hurts." The doctor said "Then DON'T DO THAT". I had to say that since it really applies here.

That said, let's see if we can help. The alternator is the supplier of ALL electric power in the vehicle. The battery is simply a storage device. A battery generates no power. It simply stores power it previously received and it needs to be replenished when some of it's power is used.

When the lights start flickering with sub then you are using more power that the alternator can supply. The alternator is not putting out enough power to cover the loads you are giving it.

Why does is not put out enough? well several things:

1. It is not big enough
2. It does not put out full power at low RPMs.
3. It only will put out maximum rated power when cold. As it warms up its output drops some.

When the load exceeds output capacity the additional power has to come from somewhere and that somewhere is the battery for a short length of time.

So your two suggestions were:

1. A bigger alternator. My answer is Most Definitely since it is the source of all power.
2. A Bigger battery. Maybe but keep in mind that the battery only supplies a finite amount stored power for a short term and any thing you take out of it will need to be replenished before you shut down the vehicle

I do not know what the loads are you are placing on the electrical system. Normally a 100 amp alternator is enough for most vehicles. I run an entire Class A motorhome on a 100 amp alternator. You need to compute the additional loads you are placing on the system and add that to 100. That will give you how much alternator you need.

Also keep in mind that you should upgrade the alternator power cable (The big heavy one) to allow it to handle the increased amperage.

Do me a favor, turn off the subs when you go by my house please. That will save my ears and allow your alternator a little extra time to start recharging your battery.

As a side note. A car starting battery is designed to supply high amperage for starting for a short time. They do not like being deeply discharged from high current long term loads. For long term current draws deep cycle batteries are used. They can be discharged with low and medium loads for much longer periods of time without damaging them. Unfortunately I can't imagine where you would put a deep cycle battery in a Fit. You do not want to replace the existing battery with a deep cycle one because thy make very poor engine starting batteries.

Good luck.

 

Yea I know, a new alternator is on my list of things to do. I did replace my stock battery 4 years ago with a 1400 kinetic. And with my gain down on the subs there is no problem with dimming. I'm just a fanatic and know my subs could play way louder if my car wasn't shutting off cause of the amp drain. Lol. I'm crazy I know but this is the first system that I have had to think about a new alternator so I'm extremely new to that and how I would go about doing it seeing as lots of people on this site post forums about them having trouble replacing alternator and how it's not the same as most vehicles.