Definitely keep us updated! Mine hasn't stalled since putting in the last two coilpacks and changing the plugs, however, my mileage is still really bad. I don't know if the poor mpg has been reported that often on here, but I just assumed it was related to the stalling. I used to get 35-40 (before the problem started), but I am still only getting 30 and sometimes lower despite the repairs. I still haven't done a valve adjustment though and might try that next. Maybe the warmer weather and taking off the snow tires will help a little too. I was thinking about throwing in another bottle of fuel injector cleaner as well.

 

Well, it's not the spark plugs.

Everything seemed to be OK since getting the new plugs, but when I left the office today, the RPM's dipped to where it sounded like might shut off when I put the car in gear.

I should note that it got up to 79 degrees F today, and when I noticed the issue last week, it was on afternoons where the temperature was similar (mid to high 70's F).

This, again, makes me wonder whether it's the valve issue due to temperature that Doctordoom mentioned. As I mentioned, the valve adjustment was done at the end of January this year, and I know they kept my car overnight when they did that so the engine would be cool, so I wouldn't think this would be the issue.

Thoughts?

 

Here's the video I shot last week on the 2nd day in a row that it happened. You might have to turn up the audio to hear the engine, but you can hear it, and you can see the tach needle drop.


On a side note, my gas mileage hasn't seemed to suffer since the spark plug change last Thursday. The RPM drop didn't occur today when I left the office, but it wasn't as warm as it was yesterday.

 

It resembles valve clearances could be your issue, particularly since you're encountering indications when the motor is chilly. That recommends valve freedom as a conceivable guilty party -the change in motor temperature makes the valves expand/contract, which updates the valve clearances. Provided that excessively far out of determinations, that might make the issues you portrayed. That is the reason valves are to be changed in accordance with Honda's specs when frosty. That guarantees that when hot, the valves will at present be inside particulars.

 

The dealer had kept my car overnight before they performed the valve adjustment so the engine would be cool. However, it was in January, so maybe the engine was too cool, and now that it's warm it's out of spec?

Possible?

 

Assuming your valve clearances were set correctly, problems at idle and then OK with hot engine the problem would be more likely plugs or cold idle circuit. Cold, valve clearances are greater than when warm thanks to the decreasing clearance as metal parts expand. Greater clearances are a help to idling thanks to narrow valve opening angles. Since the plugs are new one would tend to think either a valve clearance has changed due to incorrectly tightened nut or mis-set at the adjustment, 1 or more bad coil paks. Bad coil perfiormance can be intermittent but not likely only when the engine is cold. A diagnostic gage is the only way to tell and the generally only when the coil pak is acting up. If the cold idle circuit or pc prograamming is at fault a dealer will be the best source for rechecking (but $849 is nonsense). If you have timing light you can review the spark plug firing from the ECU and see if its too low during warmup. The cold idle speed adjustment is also a possdibility for low rpm at cold. So
Check your valve clearances
check your engine cold idle circuit
as for rpm drop when engaging the automatic, thats normal. Its a result of the automatic taking up preload from neutral.

Good luck.

 

I just bought a used honda fit sport 2008 but it does have 130000 mileage. I do notice that I do get the stalling right when I start the car. I usually have to warm it up for 5 minutes or so. I went to my mechanic today and he said that it was just the idling controller not being set correctly. I did suggest that the value needs adjustment but he said that can't be it.

Should I go to another mechanic like Evasive Motorsports that isn't too far from my area?

 

For sure he has no idea what he is talking about. Very common problem and is solved by doing the adjustment. The idle control has no manual settings it is controlled by the computer.

 

Yeah that's what I said to him, I'm probably going to go to evasive motorsports and talk to them about it if things don't change

 

LOL if they have computer access hook them up with this thread and educate them.

 

That's what I was thinking LOL

I just called a friend of mine and told him about my situation

He said that I should get the fuel injector cleaned, repair the fuel rail, value adjustments, idle controller and replace the value gasket.

Sometimes when I go up hills the car has trouble and I have to step on the gas pedal to really put more power into it. I also notice that I tend to use more gas even on short trips and I don't have the AC on

I bought the car without knowing the car history and that was a horrible decision on my end, all that I know was that the previous owner put a new intake in the car but that was about it supposedly.

I don't know much about cars so I don't know what the intake looks like

Here's a picture under the hood:

 

Just wanted to chime in since I'm having similar issues (a lot of similarities, likely the same underlying issues, but worth repeating).

Problem:
Vehicle idle is rough (vehicle shudders) when started and may stall when put into gear (reverse or drive). Vehicle idle becomes normal and vehicle is less prone to stalling after the engine has warmed up (when the indicator has turned OFF).

Symptoms:
The rough idle is more pronounced in cold weather (less than 50°F outside, for instance). The vehicle is also more likely to stall in cold weather. In warm weather, the rough idle is less pronounced and stalling is almost never an issue.

Turning on the air conditioner seems to exacerbate rough idle/stall. When the A/C compressor turns on, I notice a slight dip in idle RPM.

After starting the vehicle, the tachometer shows the RPM "hunting" around (a lot).

Other Information (possibly unrelated):
1) Check Engine Light & Code P2647 - VTEC Oil Pressure Switch stuck open. Valve replaced and CEL reset (unstored from memory). Car performance improved somewhat. No recurring CEL.
2) All spark plugs replaced at ~90,000 miles with the idea that MAYBE that would fix the rough idle. No dice.

Outlook:
Vehicle idle issue is becoming progressively worse, and winter is coming, so I'm thinking on getting the valve clearances checked and corrected as the next step. I'm not interested in having the coil packs replaced. Definitely staying away from the dealership.

UPDATE 04-Dec-2013

Shortly after posting this yesterday, another symptom crept up: The engine started to "jerk" intermittently when in neutral and when in gear, but most noticeably when trying to accelerate slightly. It felt like a misfire, but was not as jarring. The jerkiness had no rhythm or pattern, so it may be related to, but is not the same as the rough idle issue mentioned above.

The CEL flashed intermittently (twice) and disappeared. Scanner revealed:
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0108 Honda - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit High Voltage

Checked for vacuum leaks and found none. Will install new IAT sensor to see what happens.

UPDATE 20-Dec-2013

New IAT sensor removed P0113 and P0108 codes, however, number 3 cylinder began misfiring. Single coil pack on number 3 cylinder was replaced, misfire went away. All "jerking" has stopped.

The rough idle issue still exists, so I'm beginning to consider having the dealership adjust the valves.

UPDATE 2-Jan-2014

I called around to four local dealers to check the price to have the valves adjusted. The quoted parts and labor totals ranged from $199 to $360. HA! I ordered the part I needed (valve cover gasket) and adjusted the valve clearance (lash) myself. This job was simple enough that anyone comfortable using hand tools can do it.

13 of the 16 valves were not in the correct clearance range. A majority of them, both intake and exhaust did not have enough clearance (intakes less than 0.006", exhausts less than 0.010"). After adjusting the clearance, I replaced the cover gasket, scraped off the two old dots of RTV silicone and reapplied some fresh. Total time to do this was less than 3 hours (but easily less than 2 if you've done it before).

Verdict? It was the valves all along! The vehicle no longer shudders, idles roughly, or stalls. It is peppy just like the old days. THE FIT IS GO.

 

I registered to say THANK YOU for this thread!

My 2007 Fit started experiencing this problem around 95k miles -- rough idle, and prone to stalling when the engine was cold (below 45°F).

I took it to the dealership in Spring 2013, and they said they were unable to duplicate the problem.

After living with the problem all summer, I finally found this thread, and I took it back to the dealership and had them do a valve adjustment. They also replaced the spark plugs (per Maintenance Minder code that appeared at 100k miles).

After that, the problem is resolved! Perfectly smooth idle, even in the coldest weather! Not sure if it was the valve adjustment or the new spark plugs that resolved the problem (or both), but that's what worked for me!

 

Cliffemall,

I've also replaced all the plugs, but that didn't resolve anything, so I'm leaning towards the valve adjustments as the likely cure. Would you mind sharing the parts and labor costs JUST for the valve clearance correction? Probably charged for a new head gasket and a couple hours labor (I would imagine).

thanks!

 

Total cost for the valve adjustment was $115. I believe this was their standard price, as I was quoted over the phone before bringing in the vehicle.

My receipt lists the breakdown as $11 for parts (valve cover gasket) and $104 for labor. It doesn't say how much time they spent on it.

 

That's a bargain! Thanks for the info!

 

really a good piece of information it is and i appreciate the efforts made behind

 

Your Honda Dealership is SCREWING YOU! I just had the same problem and they replaced the "Coil Assy . , Plug Top and Coil Pack and my sub total was $200.32 with labor and Air Filter and Oil Change and 10% off my Grand Total was $294.14 And I own a 2007 Honda Fit Sport Auto.

 

Update to my earlier post:

I finally decided to take the value adjustment path and took it to the dealership, they are doing the adjustment right now and hopefully after they are done I'll have the car that I always wanted

Btw I asked them to record the values settings before they do anything. This is me hoping that they do record it so I can tell you guys how bad mine were

Out of the 16 values, ALL of the exhaust values needed to be adjustment but none of the intake
I'm a happy campier now

 

My 08 Fit started having stalling issues recently after changing the battery. At stop lights, at least once a trip my stereo would turn off then turn back on simultaneously w/ the headlights dimming. I popped the hood and realized I messed with the ground wire when I changed the battery. Cleaned the ground wire up, tightened it down and re-connected battery with no issues since. I know this is different than your situation but when I saw your thread I was like "wow, this is probably common among fits." Anyway, hope everything works out for you.