Any issues with any of our Fits needs some guidance right?
I'm probably going to have to change my battery soon because I'm getting some erosion on the negative terminal. It's cleaned up for now but I will wait till the moment comes to change it. My mechanic is charging me $175 for the battery alone

 

What!? For that price it better be a Optima. I am using a reversed Acura Integra battery. It fits perfectly in my battery compartment and it has much more of a better raiting. Autozone was charging me $130 for the OEM Fit battery but then someone told me to use a Integra battery with reversed terminals (positive - negatives opposite from regular 94-01 Integra batteries) and it was $126 for a Duralast Gold with a 5 year warranty + 3 year replacement.

 

Yeah it's pretty ridiculous if you ask me, lately he's been charging a little more than he has in the past too

I'm kind of feeling more comfortable going to the dealership instead because he was asking A LOT more for the value adjustment.

 

I have an 08 fit sport. I have 260,000 miles on it. The cold stall crap started about 2 weeks ago as we are in dead cold winter. I figured valves were issue due to the cold and miles but I was also getting an arch sound around the coil and a misfire. I pulled plugs and coils to discover plugs were a little loose and 1 coil had began to melt another had obvious lightening marks and a final one smelled burnt up and the boot wasnt too good. so i swapped all 4 coils and put new plugs. I also did the valve adjustment. Now the cold light goes out a lot quicker and the stall is gone. But I have a super low idle. I think the arching sound is actually coming from the IAC which appears to be linked with the throttle. I'm attempting to clean that out and do a relearn (which without the honda diag tool I will be disconnecting battery to force a relearn) but if this doesnt work im not sure what to do. i checked compression and hooked the modis scanner up to monitor everything else. I do not want to replace the throttle body unless its going to fix it so im trying to avoid doing that. is there any updates anyone has on this topic????? i love my fit. with these many miles ive ran full synthetic since day 1 and my car still runs like a dream. until this ive never had issues (mind you i have maintained it & i work in a shop so its relatively easy for me to take the time to try a lot of things)

 

My 2008 Fit Sport manual 150Kmiles was also stalling, mainly when cold but also when hot @ 60mph. The RPM didn't drop down smoothly when you let it roll in neutral. But it would never stall while standing. We cleaned the gunk off the throttle valve. That improved things but didn't fix it. Then we got a P2A00 oxygen sensor error. Changed the oxygen sensor (Denso from partsgeek) and that still didn't fix it. Finally adjusted the valve clearance and that fixed it.

Some advice:

To take the intake manifold off, separate it between the upper plastic part and the metal part (not further down between metal and metal as specified in the shop manual) and you won't need to change the gasket.

 

I joined this forum just for this thread, and I've already learned a good bit reading through everyone's experiences. Here's mine, and a question at the end:

I have a 2008 Honda Fit Sport Automatic with 82,000 miles. It's been doing the rough idle thing for a few months now, since June/July 2013 (ish). It doesn't seem to make a difference in hot vs. cold weather, and while it primarily happens when I'm at an idle (stoplights, etc), it doesn't always happen when I first start the car. Only once did I have the shuddering issue while driving it on the highway, and that's the only time my CE light came on - but it only flashed briefly and then went off. That happened when I was going up a mountain. It's only completely cut off on me maybe 5 or 6 times over the last 8 months or so.

I did some research on this forum and others, and brought in a list of possible issues to a local shop that I've always had good experiences with (not a dealer).

After their first look, they said the coil packs looked fine and the spark plugs were still OK (but would need to be changed probably at 100K). They didn't say anything about the valves, but did recommend a flush of the fuel injection system, so I went with that. For a week or two after that, it was fine, but then the rough idle returned.

I took it back this morning, and they confirmed that the problem was with the air control valve. However, instead of suggesting an adjustment, they suggested a replacement and said that in order to replace the valve, they'd have to replace the entire throttle body because the valve doesn't come as a separate part. They did actually call the dealer on my behalf to see what they've done for similar issues, and told me that the dealer actually might give me a better deal than they could at the shop since my car still has under 100K and shouldn't be having these issues; though I'm not sure if I believe that.

So, my main question is, has anyone else with these issues had to actually replace an idle air control valve, and if so, were the guys at the shop right in telling me that the entire throttle body would need replacing? How much damage to my wallet would that be?

If it's as easy as an adjustment, I'm wondering if I should go elsewhere or simply call my regular guys back and ask them if that is a possible option. Unless the problem they found clearly goes beyond an adjustment, but they didn't specify that. I normally try to avoid the dealership, but at least they'd be the most familiar with any issues, parts, etc.

Any feedback or advice would be more than welcome!

 

For myself and others in this thread, it was as easy as a valve adjustment. My local Honda dealership did it for $115 in December 2013.

I have no idea how much it would cost to replace the throttle body, but I'm assuming it's a lot more than $115.

Unless there is some other reason they are suggesting to replace the throttle body (not just the rough idle), I would start with the valve adjustment.

 

Thanks Cliffemall, that's what I'm thinking. The guy at the shop said it would be almost $800 for them to replace the throttle body, but the dealer might be able to give me a better price. I'm really hoping an adjustment will do it.

 

Deposits on battery terminals are not a reason to replace the battery. Do a loatestin order to check the battery condition. Mosshops do it for free.
And $175 for replacing a battery is pretty high. Can't you go to a aftermarket autopartsplass?

 

Mine did the exact same thing at first - w. 2007 Honda Fit. I had to replace the coils. Problem permanently fixed. It had gotten so bad it was misfiring all the time - but started only upon the first running for 2-3 minutes in the morning for me.

 

the cold start has been happening for awhile for me--im at 158,000 miles--
but sometimes at traffic lights when my car is warm- at a full stop- does a hestaitions or a jump- the car doesn't move when doing this... I thought it was the trans b4 reading all these posts..

 

I replaced my coil packs + spark plugs and re-adjusted my valves. Car has been feeling brand new since then. I'm at 98k miles.

 

I had the valve clearances finally done (after numerous mechanics refusing to do it before charging me an additional $80 for their diagnostic checks!) at a Honda dealership. $160 and the stalling after startup is completely gone. That's the only work I had done and is running great!

 

Here's my experience with these symptoms. I got an '07 Fit with 156k 2 months ago. Right off the bat it had the stalling issue exactly as mentioned in this thread. My mechanic adjusted the valves ($110 later; dealership wanted $220) and that fixed the stalling problem, but then I started getting a CEL for cylinder 2 misfire. Come to find out the cylinder 2 valves (or at least one valve) were bad, thus compression was low on cylinder 2 and that was causing a misfire at idle. Later on, the dealer admitted that it ran horribly when they got it, so I suspect someone limped the car along with out-of-spec valve clearances for a long time and it eventually bent them and made them not seat correctly. The valve replacement is apparently a really time consuming job; it's 10 1/2 hours and essentially involves a head gasket plus installing the new valves and machining to get them to seat right. I got quotes of $1840 (independant shop) and $1635 (dealer) to do it. I ended up getting a used engine (only takes 9 hours to swap) and it ended up about the same price.

I have a suspicion that the dealer I got it from adjusted the valves to be too tight in order to fight the check engine misfire code. I could tell someone had monkeyed with the engine fighting the misfire issue because all the spark plugs were gapped down to like .030.

So anyway, all this is to say that if you have this problem it should be fixed sooner rather than later, and if you have a car with these issues and an unknown history, worst case it could be bad valves.

 

what are folks paying for a spark plug and coil pack repalcement and for a valve adjustment?

My local honda wants $160 for just spark plug replacement and another $330 for valve adjustment and replacing the gaskets.

Sounds a bit too much.

 

I had the following service done at my local Honda dealership in December 2013.

• $115 - Valve adjustment and replace head cover gasket.
• $130 - Replace spark plugs (as recommended by the Maintenance Minder at 100k miles).

 

Im at 80k but i feel i may have a bad spark plug.

Wow.. My quotes are so much more than urs.

 

I know i probably wont be able to have valves done for 115 but what is reasonable? Im getting 250-550... I could continue to look for sub 200 but would 200-250 be too much?

 

I got around less then $200 if my memory is correct. My personal mechanic offered to do it for $125

 

Friend referred me to his mechanic and quoted 150-200 for valve adjust. Just got call that it's a lot more work and more difficult so wants 375 now.
hm... how many hours does it take? at standard 70/hr, i'm being cahrged well over 5 hrs labor time.