Like this!

I've been thinking about moving my battery for an intake idea I have, and well don't want to lose any cargo room in the back.

I didn't find anything like this on here... Has anyone done this?

 

There's plenty of room for an intake with the battery in its original location

 

If you make a nice cowl and perhaps upgrade the radiator fan, you can stick it right behind the foglight area if you get one of those tiny high power car audio batteries. Much cheaper then those odyssey crap batteries, and a chance to clean up some wiring under the hood

 

I can't think of a worse idea.

1. You've just increased your cars moment of inertia by placing a huge mass at the farthest most tip of the vehicle. You will reduce handling response and maneuverability. There is now a higher inertial reaction to a steering change input resulting in a slower response.

2. The mount for that mass is not stiff enough and it will vibrate, causing 2nd order fluctuations to the handling response issue.

The intake idea is a waste of time, I think. I have yet to see any data from an independent study that shows these things work on any car, let alone the Honda Fit. Car manufacturers always try to put the battery as far aft towards the CG of the car as possible due to the reason i listed.

 

1. You have no idea my idea for an intake so how do you know it's a waste of time.

2. It's a stock fit, not a racecar, sorry to burst the bubble of so many people.

3. I bet you would think it was awful that I don't have my front sway bar hooked up...

The fit iscene may be worse than the DSM scene in stagnant, only one way to do something, ect. It's no wonder that the owners of the best fits out there rarely if ever post on here, it's a whole bunch of narrow minded, my 1.5l Eco motors a racecar people.

The link was just to show the idea. The bracket made would be sufficent to hold our tiny batteries.

 

Maybe the renowned Joplin, MO DSM scene .. but few places are you going to find as many different combinations as between the two generations of DSMs.

FWIW - the L motor happens to be efficient and put in cheap hatch back.. that doesn't make it an "eco" motor. It also is being used as an alternative to the Ford Kent motor for open wheel and B-spec racing. So what's this intake idea you've got? Are you going to do something about tuning for it?

If you are putting the battery up under the bumper cover.. consider putting some remote charge terminals in an easy to access place. Better make that mount solid, it'd be like hitting a cinder block if it falls off or cracks from fatigue lol

A visible kill switch and/or inertia switch would also be wise, because when you get in a crash and the emergency personnel can't find the battery.. it's smashed up against the frame and shorting out, you will be boned while they stand around watching you burn to death because they can't risk using the jaws of life.

Why did you disconnect your front sway bar.. if you are not looking to straight line race or rock crawl?

 

Dangerous as **** and a terrible idea. Relocate to the trunk and get a secured battery box if you need more room in the engine bay.

That kind of stuff is fine for wire-tucked show cars that barely get driven, but I would never do something like that on my daily. What DSM said is spot on.

 

A whole the Dsm scene is lacking originality and newness... I know there are pockets of awesome DSMs and those who build them.

Remote terminals and a kill switch are on the list.

My end links were causing the sway bar to hit after being lowered, I could get adjustable end link but after having them off for 3 months I haven't noticed hardly any difference in daily driving.

In an open wheel or a dedicated racecar I'm sure it's not a bad motor at all, just in a cheaper hatchback with full interior handful of airbags, AC, PS, ect it struggles...

It would also help with athletics of a "cleaner" bay without sacrificing cargo room in the back seat or hatch area...

It would be based loosely off the twist designed for rsx
twist RSX Battery Relocator | BAT-REL | Free Shipping | K Series Parts

Swade

 

you are right, intakes dont do anything. the stock super restrictive resonators and tiny air opening dont hurt power at all
Go look up dyno charts. while intakes do NOT increase PEAK PEAK PEAK power by that much, if any, it DOES USUALLY effect low and midrange power, you know, that spot of the rpms you spend all day at!

Keep in mind, the intake could be the most baddass thing ever, but we still have cams and cylinder head ports and valve sizes to deal with. Hence why people put on huge intake piping and wonder why they see stock power up top, reduced power down low, and a butt dyno that says power was increased, even though their disregard to physics and flow velocity was jacked up



Quit being silly and research abit. or save up some money and get a project car and start testing out ideas. Thats how I first was able to rebuild motors and transmissions. cheap stuff from junkyards, donations from friends/family, and some money here and there

 

Not saying you're wrong but I won't be convinced unless I can read data somewhere about the power delta curve of a Fit with and without an intake. And not the intake manufacturers data. And btw, "intake" here really means pre-intake manifold and pre-throttle body. The restriction you speak of is not the plastic stuff before the throttle body and manifold... it's the throttle body and manifold itself.

 

Throttle body is not a restriction on this car, even in boosted applications. Nor is the manifold.

The manifold plenum size and runner design could be changed for better performance with consideration for other VE mods. But change for the sake of change will not free up power. Not accounting for resonance and harmonics is asking for trouble.

You can shift your VE a bit and pick up some power with a well designed intake pipe/filter, but if you can't tune for the new found airflow, the ECU will adjust accordingly within a few drive cycles.

 

You missed my point. It was rhetorical. There is no restriction to the incoming air into the cylinder other than the intake manifold itself and throttle body - thus voiding the pre-throttle body cold intake discussion. See Dyno results for K&N drop in filter, SI model......... - Honda-Tech as an example. Even doing the VE shift you mention makes no sense in so far as fluid dynamics of a so called "cold air intake' goes. There is no new found airflow.

 

I'm not certain what your compressible fluid dynamics background is, nor do I care.

Simple fact is altering flow characteristics will have an effect on total mass flow and/or charge face velocity. What the effect is depends on what you've done. It is contextual.

Length, cross section, bend radius and the number of bends, surface texture, etc all play a part. The intake manifold is not a restriction, it is tuned to work with the stock cam/head combo. The throttle is a restriction any time you are not at WOT.. but so is every other throttle. In terms of mass flow, the throttle body is bigger from the than what the engine would need in absolute terms to make the power it does from the factory.

As far as the rest of the intake system, you can see on the MAP sensor at WOT there is a pressure drop across the stock intake system on a GD.

 

You still miss the point, but that's ok. Perhaps my referencing is too vague. I wasn't discussing what an intake manifold does and I have no argument about it. I was trying to make a point about plumbing before the throttle body and how it has almost no affect on the mass air flow and fluid dynamics past the throttle body.

 

Lolz @ this kid!

 

Good lord, you put that so eloquently I almost cried! hahaha But seriously, you're totally right. People on here have NO imagination whatsoever.

Personally, even if the inertia is fucked up, it'd be different. It'd be something that not many people have done. So, DO IT! Hahaha, then, post a How to so we can see if there's anything that could be done differently or improved upon.

 

There is no ultimate result here. The OP presented a subjective question and he got subjective responses from subjective people.

 

Best thread ever. just put the battery in the rear where the spare goes.

 

Umm I dont think you can call our battery a "huge" mass..as our battery weighs maybe 25 Lbs.