Hello. I've read some great DIYs on here for bleeding the brakes but before I attempt this with my buddy, I have some questions mainly about the clutch drain since I haven't seen anything about that.

1) will 2 bottles of brake fluid be enough for a clutch AND brake bleed?
2) when bleeding the clutch, is there any risk of damage to seals by bringing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor? I actually saw a DIY on YouTube where the person was bring the pedal back up with the tip of his shoe (or else it would stay on the floor)
3) please clarify the brake pedal pumping. Does the buddy need to pump before the valve is opened to create pressure then hold the pedal down on the last pump while the valve is opened or should the pumping start only after the valve is opened?
4) I'm replacing Honda brake fluid with the same type/brand BF. In case the difference between the dirty and fresh BF isn't very obvious, approx. how much BF should I expect to bleed from each wheel before is start to see fresh fluid?

Thanks in advance for your help/ advice!

 

Use a sucker such as a turkey baster and suck out as much fluid as possible from the reservoirs first. You can bleed either way as you described but have a container of your old fluid with the hose submersed so air is not sucked back up.

 

Yup. That was my planned technique! However, that doesn't answer my questions will 2 bottles be enough? Honda BF is only 5$ so if it's even close I'll get a third bottle just to be safe but I was under the impression that a bottle alone was near sufficient for a full brake job so 2 bottles might be enough for brakes + clutch but I'm not sure...

 

2's enough

 

WARNING: do NOT let brake fluid drip on any painted surfaces as it will EAT THE PAINT.

The best way to do your clutch master cylinder bleed and replace it very simple. Get your wrench ready best to use box type.

Slide the wrench on the drain nipple. Slide on a length of rubber or plastic hose onto the nipple trapping the wrench where it is.

Make sure the hose is long enough so that it will droop toward the floor and into a container of your choice.

Then take the cap off your clutch master cylinder and open the drain bleed valve and watch the fluid coming out into your drain container.

Keep an eye on the master cylinder as the level goes down WARNING: DO NOT LET THE LEVEL GO ALL THE WAY TO THE BOTTOM. Let the level go to the lower marking line then add your new fluid to to upper level.

You can rest or work on something else between fill ups as it takes a couple of minutes to drain from full until it hits the lower mark.

3 or 4 fill ups will make for clean fluid or you can look at the color of the fluid coming out into the drain container to see if it's clean fluid.

Close the drain valve. Remove the tubing and container, fill to the full mark, replace the cap.

DONE no bleeding or other action needed.

 

I did all 4 corners and the clutch with just over 1/2 a bottle of ATE Super Blue

For sure 2 people are required to do this right!

Also, these suckers are a nice addition if you do brake work often: SB8125LL Speed Bleeder

 

hey T how do those work

 

nvm found info lol

 

Never occurred to me to get those worth the $30 and I will buy a set.

Wafulz, they have a check valve that springs back when you let off the brake when bleeding to keep air from coming back in the line. That way you don't need to opencloseopenclose the valve and can bleed the brakes without an assistant.

edit: oh ok lol

 

ugh 07-08 i wonder if they fit

 

i called they said they will update online here is the part number


09-13 fit part number is FRONT SB 10125 REAR SB 8125L

 

Nice work!

Here is the .gif of them in action LOL


I found these for my old bikes and they made that brake job a SNAP. Easy install on the Fit... although now I have to bring 2 different sized wrenches and one is a non metric

 

Definitely good paint remover... unless it's unintentional...

 

Thanks to all for the great info. I think I'll skip on the speed bleeders since I only plan on doing a brake bleed every 2-3 years as is recommended with normal maintenance. Definitely seems like a great product at an unbeatable price!

I plan on using a turkey baster to get most of the fluid out from the clutch cylinder, filling up and then opening the valve to save time. From what I can gather no clutch pedal pumping is necessary, is that correct?

I'm still uncertain about the correct brake bleed procedure and the correct timing of the helper that pumps the pedal with the opening of the valve. I suppose that raising the brake is what can draw air into the system so I should close the valve before he lets of the brake. What about the pumping? Must it occur pre or post opening?

Also, what mm box wrench is required? 8mm?

 

@MTLian, here's an additional good-read thread for you: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...s-learned.html

 

How often are y’all replacing the bf in the clutch??