Comparing front strut bars
Comparing front strut bars
In the market for one, noticed there's a few different designs and price points. Which would you choose and why?
Aspec 06 08 Honda FIT Sport Jazz Front Upper Aluminum Strut Tower Brace BAR | eBay
NEW Genuine Ultra Racing Honda FIT Jazz Front Rigid Strut Tower BAR Brace | eBay
07 08 Honda FIT Jazz Front UP Upper Strut Tower BAR Aluminum Suspension | eBay
07 08 Honda FIT DME Front Shock Strut Tower Reinforcement Brace Upper BAR KIT | eBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Fit-Jazz-06-08-JDM-Front-Strut-Bar-Bars-Front-Strut-Tower-Brace-Braces-/390358280465?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae32aa911&vxp=mtr
etc, so out of these 3 styles im thinking probably the ultimate racing steel bar? Let me know what you think guys! (Im leaning towards either the single piece, steel, second one, or aluminium, last one)
Aspec 06 08 Honda FIT Sport Jazz Front Upper Aluminum Strut Tower Brace BAR | eBay
NEW Genuine Ultra Racing Honda FIT Jazz Front Rigid Strut Tower BAR Brace | eBay
07 08 Honda FIT Jazz Front UP Upper Strut Tower BAR Aluminum Suspension | eBay
07 08 Honda FIT DME Front Shock Strut Tower Reinforcement Brace Upper BAR KIT | eBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Fit-Jazz-06-08-JDM-Front-Strut-Bar-Bars-Front-Strut-Tower-Brace-Braces-/390358280465?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae32aa911&vxp=mtr
etc, so out of these 3 styles im thinking probably the ultimate racing steel bar? Let me know what you think guys! (Im leaning towards either the single piece, steel, second one, or aluminium, last one)
Last edited by Maty J; Jun 23, 2013 at 09:32 PM.
Those are all virtually the same. There is one manufacturer that makes one that goes from tower to tower like these but right in the center there is a section that goes back toward the windshield and bolts the the front of the firewall. If you can find one those are the most rigid.
well the obvious main differences are, they're either 1 piece, or 2 piece, or aluminium or steel, I've heard steel is obviously the best, but I just dont want that heavy heavy bar bogging me down even more than I am now. And ive been told 1 piece definitely over 2 piece. The aluminium one piece looks good but why is it soo cheap??
I have an aluminum 1 piece one... It's effects are minimal other than engine bay eye candy.
I left the bolts out of one side accidentally at my last AutoX and there was ZERO difference in the car.
I left the bolts out of one side accidentally at my last AutoX and there was ZERO difference in the car.
Ultra Racing if I had to choose only because it's solid and steel.
I've seen some eBay aluminum bars I could slightly bend over my knee
For a modern chassis like this car I think it's mostly a waste of money, the chassis is already fairly stiff and the strut towers are so close to the firewall I don't see them flexing all that much anyway.
If you have a friend that can weld you should ask him to make a 3 point solid bar that bolts to the firewall somewhere like loudbang said. I don't think there are any three point bars on the market, or at least I haven't seen one.
I've seen some eBay aluminum bars I could slightly bend over my knee

For a modern chassis like this car I think it's mostly a waste of money, the chassis is already fairly stiff and the strut towers are so close to the firewall I don't see them flexing all that much anyway.
If you have a friend that can weld you should ask him to make a 3 point solid bar that bolts to the firewall somewhere like loudbang said. I don't think there are any three point bars on the market, or at least I haven't seen one.
Any strut bar that prevents the distance between the strut towers from changing (bowing inward or outward) will make an improvement.
Combine a front strut tower bar with fender braces, and you have a much stiffer front end.
Triangulating to the firewall has a damn huge effect once you have money into tires and suspension!
Forcing the chassis to use the suspension rightaway instead of first flexing the chassis is the biggest time reducer on the track!
Combine a front strut tower bar with fender braces, and you have a much stiffer front end.
Triangulating to the firewall has a damn huge effect once you have money into tires and suspension!
Forcing the chassis to use the suspension rightaway instead of first flexing the chassis is the biggest time reducer on the track!
^although this is all 100% true... I have:
1 piece CARBING aluminum strut bar
Nagasi Fender braces
1 piece aluminium under tie bar
Been through 3 sets of different race tires on 15x7.5 or 15x8 wheels
I left out two bolts/nuts on the drivers side at my last event:
It didn't change anything...
1 piece CARBING aluminum strut bar
Nagasi Fender braces
1 piece aluminium under tie bar
Been through 3 sets of different race tires on 15x7.5 or 15x8 wheels
I left out two bolts/nuts on the drivers side at my last event:
It didn't change anything...
IMO it's more of a chassis brace than a strut bar since it bolts on to the frame of the car unlike the ones for older cars that bolt onto the strut/shock mounts.
I have the Spoon brace and the difference is minimal. I just bought it because I want full bar reinforcement on the front end for under steer.
But to answer your question, any bar will work just don't buy one that's made with a cheap material.
I have the Spoon brace and the difference is minimal. I just bought it because I want full bar reinforcement on the front end for under steer.
But to answer your question, any bar will work just don't buy one that's made with a cheap material.
The torsional or bending strength is not all the important in this application. In this type of side to side bracing compression strength is what you need and that is more a function of the tubing size and shape not so much the material. Stand the tubing up on end and step onto it and you will see that it doesn't compress, then lay it horizontally across two cement block holding up the ends then step in the middle and see how easily it deflects with either aluminum or steel.
Last edited by loudbang; Jun 25, 2013 at 04:08 AM.
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