1st Generation (GD 01-08) The one that started it all! Generation specific talk and questions here!

07 fit electrical issue

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 18, 2014 | 11:36 PM
  #1  
rflagg1408's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
New Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 5
From: california
07 fit electrical issue

When I was leaving work today I noticed when I tried to turn my AC on the blower didnt turn on. And the AC button doesn't light up when I push it. Also the rear defogger button doesn't light up when I push it. I checked everything else and found that the power mirrors don't work either. I checked all the fuses inside the drivers side and all were fine. Is there a relay or fuse I might have missed? Car was fine before this happened. Thanks for your help.
 
Old Jun 19, 2014 | 04:30 AM
  #2  
spreadhead's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,104
From: Chattanooga
Check the under hood fuse box. #5 is for the blower relay. See page 225 of the owners manual.
 
Old Jun 19, 2014 | 07:23 AM
  #3  
Carbuff2's Avatar
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,704
From: Second house on the left
5 Year Member
It's not unheard of for the A/C switch to fail. Ours was replaced (under warranty, fortunately)
 
Old Jun 19, 2014 | 01:21 PM
  #4  
rflagg1408's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
New Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 5
From: california
Thanks for the responses. I checked fuse #5 under the hood and its fine. I also rechecked fuse #22 inside the car which is for the rear defroster and its fine. Could a bad AC switch cause the rear defroster and power mirrors to stop working? Thanks.
 
Old Jun 20, 2014 | 01:34 AM
  #5  
DWils's Avatar
Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 823
From: Arizona
The LED lights could be burned out but the items could still be functioning just fine.


Which knob won't work? In my 2007 Fit I have the air power knob (off, 1, 2, 3, 4) and the temperature control (cool on the left, then clockwise to hot on the right). I had a 1991 Accord and the temperature was stuck on cool. Turns out the female portion on the back side of that thing that you turn to control the temperature was stripped. A few dollars for a new knob and I could finally start using warm air.
While you're checking fuses you might as well check all the fuses. Sometimes stuff is controlled by a weird fuse you wouldn't think controls the item. Just make sure to write down your radio security code first.
 
Old Jun 20, 2014 | 01:50 AM
  #6  
ROTTBOY's Avatar
Someone that spends his life on FitFreak.net
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,116
From: Hawaii: relocated to Western Canada Sept, 2015
Originally Posted by rflagg1408
...checked fuse #5 under the hood and its fine.......rechecked fuse #22 .......its fine.....
May I suggest that you replace both fuses before trouble-shooting further. Sometimes a busted fuse can't be seen visually if the split is small enough. Its a cheap enough 1st option to eliminate before moving forward.
 
Old Jun 20, 2014 | 03:00 AM
  #7  
rflagg1408's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
New Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 5
From: california
The air power knob is the one not working. I turn it to 1,2,3,4 position and it doesn't come on. The AC button and rear defroster buttons do "click" and stay down when I push them but the light does not not turn on and the AC and rear defroster wont work. I swapped the blower fuse under the hood with the power window fuse that was next to it since they were both the same amps and the windows rolled up and down so I know that the fuse was good. I also checked all the fuses with a voltmeter so I know they're good. I took out the power mirror switch and checked for battery voltage on the connector coming from the car and it didnt show any voltage on terminal 2. I did look up a wiring diagram online and saw that the air power knob switch (the one with the 1,2,3,4 settings), AC switch, rear defroster switch, and power mirror switch all lead to the black/yellow wire that runs to IG1. I checked the volts on that black/yellow wire right before it plugs into the connector on the ignition column and it showed battery voltage. So now my question is if the AC switch went bad would that cause all the other switches not to get power because the AC switch is creating an open circuit? Thank you all for your input. Im very tempted to just put in a new AC switch to see if that will solve the issue. But I hate the idea of removing all the trim around it just to find out thats not the problem. :/
 
Old Jun 20, 2014 | 04:31 AM
  #8  
DWils's Avatar
Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 823
From: Arizona
Removing all the trim around the air controls is not all that difficult. There is a thread floating around here somewhere that shows how to do it. I know because I used it as a reference when I swapped out the stock head unit for an aftermarket one. It really isn't too complicated to tackle without instructions though. Once you get the covers all off you can also check if lights are burned out or not. One of the cool/hot knob lights is burned out in my car but I'm lazy and just don't care enough to change it.


Edit: also check to make sure that all the connectors are connected. I don't think they'd jiggle loose, but you never know with a vehicle that is about 7 years old.
 
Old Jun 20, 2014 | 07:21 PM
  #9  
rflagg1408's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
New Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 5
From: california
I took out the stereo dash trim off and disconnected the ac switch. I checked for battery voltage on the plug and couldnt find any in any of the pins.
 
Old Jun 23, 2014 | 02:34 PM
  #10  
doctor J's Avatar
Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,604
From: Orange, CA, USA
5 Year Member
The a/c will not work if blower motor is not working (fail safe feature to protect evaporator),
However this will not explain why mirrors and defrost are not working.
Please check 7.5A fuse #10 in under dash fuse box.
UPDATE:
this fuse controls defroster and power mirrors, so this fuse is most likely blown.
If fuse is blown , switch the a/c blower fan and defrost "off", take fuse out and get the test light with small 14 v bulb.
NOW insert the test light in place of fuse there should be no light otherwise there is a dead short on the hot side between fuse and switches (relays)
 

Last edited by doctor J; Jun 23, 2014 at 02:45 PM.
Old Jun 23, 2014 | 04:19 PM
  #11  
doctor J's Avatar
Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,604
From: Orange, CA, USA
5 Year Member
A word of caution: with blown fuse #10 the engine cooling fans will not work either!!!
If there is no light on tester across the fuse but there is a power upstream of this fuse with cold engine. you will have to figure out which circuit is in charge for making this mess
This circuit supplies power to the coils of the following relays: both fans, A/c clutch, Blower motor, defroster and power mirrors.
can you recall which circuit u used last time?? any work under hood??
 
Old Jun 24, 2014 | 08:04 AM
  #12  
doctor J's Avatar
Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,604
From: Orange, CA, USA
5 Year Member
No response from OP so he either took the car to the dealer, screwed something up, or found the problem which turned out to be related to the blinker fluid level
Sorry for the rant but I "love" when posters asking for help and than disappear!
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Thor667
3rd Generation (2015+)
6
Jul 10, 2021 05:39 AM
Miranda Spoox McHenry
2nd Generation (GE 08-13)
1
Nov 18, 2016 04:54 AM
theflyingsquirrel
Fit DIY: Repair & Maintenance
0
Aug 15, 2016 04:32 PM
dwtaylorpdx
1st Generation (GD 01-08)
2
Feb 14, 2016 12:58 PM
Moby8IIIIID
1st Generation (GD 01-08)
4
Dec 17, 2010 12:27 AM




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:42 AM.