Valve lash inspection and adjustment
Valve lash inspection and adjustment
So today I did above procedure on my car.
This topic is heavily discussed on the forum so let me add some new stuff:
I bought valve cover set (Felpro VS 50782) but used gasket only (blue in color with incorrectly molded tab); I reused OEM grommets
I also replaced intake plenum O-rings "eye glasses" (MS 19814 Victor) and re-used TB to plenum gasket.
As all of you know I am paranoid about touching the throttle valve, so I removed air filter housing, fully removed 3 out of 4 TB to plenum bolts (they all the same) and temporary reinstalled air cleaner housing to keep the TB in vertical position.
Before proceeding I briefly started the car and tuned wheels fully to the right to expose access to crank bolt and removed plastic engine cover
Items disconnected:
-air intake temp sensor,
-purge solenoid at TB
-MAP sensor
-all ignition coils;
-EGR valve
I separated harness from brackets; I left it attached to the harness stay near coil#1 and unbolted the stay (12mm bolt) from the head
I also partially removed 14 mm bolt for the plenum to head support bracket and unbolted plenum from the bracket 10 mm bolt
Next, I disconnected brake booster hose from the plenum.
Finally I separated plenum and manifold by removing 3 bolts and 2 nuts; after removing the last TB to plenum bolt I pulled the plenum out and covered exposed runners with poly bag
After removal of the valve cover (7 screws with 10 mm heads and disconnecting of vent hose) I examined the valve clearances.
The 4 of the intakes were 8 mils and 4 of the exhaust were 8 mils as well; the rest were 7 and 10 respectively. So I adjusted valves out of speck to 11 mils (exhaust) and 6 mils (intakes)
I used "not so nice" flat screwdriver and offset box 10 mm wrench to tighten the lock nuts.
I managed to rotate crank using ordinary ratchet 8" long without removal of the spark plugs.
The entire procedure took about 1 hour 30 minutes plus the test drive.
Tools used:
ratchet and extensions
feeler gage
flat screwdriver (small)
flat screwdriver big
offset box end 10/12 mm wrench
5.5 mm nut driver for intake clamp
slip joint pliers
10, 12, and 14 mm sockets; 3/4 "socket for crank shaft
Magnet and flash light

Thanks for reading!!
This topic is heavily discussed on the forum so let me add some new stuff:
I bought valve cover set (Felpro VS 50782) but used gasket only (blue in color with incorrectly molded tab); I reused OEM grommets
I also replaced intake plenum O-rings "eye glasses" (MS 19814 Victor) and re-used TB to plenum gasket.
As all of you know I am paranoid about touching the throttle valve, so I removed air filter housing, fully removed 3 out of 4 TB to plenum bolts (they all the same) and temporary reinstalled air cleaner housing to keep the TB in vertical position.
Before proceeding I briefly started the car and tuned wheels fully to the right to expose access to crank bolt and removed plastic engine cover
Items disconnected:
-air intake temp sensor,
-purge solenoid at TB
-MAP sensor
-all ignition coils;
-EGR valve
I separated harness from brackets; I left it attached to the harness stay near coil#1 and unbolted the stay (12mm bolt) from the head
I also partially removed 14 mm bolt for the plenum to head support bracket and unbolted plenum from the bracket 10 mm bolt
Next, I disconnected brake booster hose from the plenum.
Finally I separated plenum and manifold by removing 3 bolts and 2 nuts; after removing the last TB to plenum bolt I pulled the plenum out and covered exposed runners with poly bag
After removal of the valve cover (7 screws with 10 mm heads and disconnecting of vent hose) I examined the valve clearances.
The 4 of the intakes were 8 mils and 4 of the exhaust were 8 mils as well; the rest were 7 and 10 respectively. So I adjusted valves out of speck to 11 mils (exhaust) and 6 mils (intakes)
I used "not so nice" flat screwdriver and offset box 10 mm wrench to tighten the lock nuts.
I managed to rotate crank using ordinary ratchet 8" long without removal of the spark plugs.
The entire procedure took about 1 hour 30 minutes plus the test drive.
Tools used:
ratchet and extensions
feeler gage
flat screwdriver (small)
flat screwdriver big
offset box end 10/12 mm wrench
5.5 mm nut driver for intake clamp
slip joint pliers
10, 12, and 14 mm sockets; 3/4 "socket for crank shaft
Magnet and flash light

Thanks for reading!!
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