Sticky Rear Hatch Lock
Sticky Rear Hatch Lock
I have searched and read the threads regarding the rusty latch mechanism and hoped that was my issue, but when I went to clean and lube it the latch itself showed no sign of rust and appears to be retracting fully -- there is no more room for it to go back any further and the release cable does appear to have slack.
BUT, I can only get the hatch to unlock occasionally, either with the fob or the door switch, and I can seem to get it to lock by repeatedly pushing the lock button. It will not unlock though until I manually flip the lever inside. Everything moves just fine and there does not appear to be much resistance in the mechanism.
SO, my question is could it just be a weakened actuator? It does make noise and I can see it trying to move the lock, but then it just stops. Sometimes it works but mostly it just makes a slightly sick whirring sound and nothing. Can't tell for sure if whirring is due to weak motor or jammed mechanism... but like I said mechanism is smooth when moved by hand.
I'm going to take it all apart this weekend to make sure its all clear in there, but am thinking of dropping a new actuator in since I will have it all apart.
Is the actuator failing common enough to assume replacing it should do the trick?
This is a new to me 2008 Sport manual with 65k miles, and besides this door lock, a dead tpms sensor, and the airbag recall I love it!!!
tia,
Jon
BUT, I can only get the hatch to unlock occasionally, either with the fob or the door switch, and I can seem to get it to lock by repeatedly pushing the lock button. It will not unlock though until I manually flip the lever inside. Everything moves just fine and there does not appear to be much resistance in the mechanism.
SO, my question is could it just be a weakened actuator? It does make noise and I can see it trying to move the lock, but then it just stops. Sometimes it works but mostly it just makes a slightly sick whirring sound and nothing. Can't tell for sure if whirring is due to weak motor or jammed mechanism... but like I said mechanism is smooth when moved by hand.
I'm going to take it all apart this weekend to make sure its all clear in there, but am thinking of dropping a new actuator in since I will have it all apart.
Is the actuator failing common enough to assume replacing it should do the trick?
This is a new to me 2008 Sport manual with 65k miles, and besides this door lock, a dead tpms sensor, and the airbag recall I love it!!!
tia,
Jon
Alright, this is planned for the weekend. I guess I might as well go to Harbor Freight and get the panel/trim removal tool kit as it appears I will be taking the door panels off this car more than just the once...
And there is no way to induce more slack in that cable if it is the offender, right? No barrel adjuster like on a bike?
And there is no way to induce more slack in that cable if it is the offender, right? No barrel adjuster like on a bike?
To remove inner panel you need to pry out a packet like piece on the bottom edge of the door (located few inches to the right of the latch jaws). To pull this part out you need a dental pick type tool to pull 4 tabs inward to side packet out of the door. After this the inner door panel can be pulled out by hand (done this back in 2012 to replace lock cylinder broken by vandals
Thanks Doctor J! I'm assuming you mean the door pull handle piece? I pry the tabs down, remove that, then the two push pins, and then just give it a few tugs to get it off? The center ones are the ones I am worried about breaking...
I may be trying this tonight if I can get home in time.
I may be trying this tonight if I can get home in time.
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